Fork air question

[C.V.]

Hack saw will work fine or an angle grinder if you have access to one. Just try to cut it in a way that the end of the coil is flat relative to the surface it contacts. Take a file to the end of the coil if you have to. If you're able to change the fork oil that will help too.

I cut from the bottom of the spring correct? (I hope that ain't as stupid as it sounds to me right now...)

Heres my basic plan- Take four inches of the springs, replace with 5" pvc spacer. Replace with 15w oil (for starters, may move up to 20 if I need to)
Stock fork caps back on, no air. Sound like it will work? should be able to do all of that for the price of the pvc.

[Billy Ricks]

This should take some of the guesswork out of it.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Suspension2.html

[C.V.]

This should take some of the guesswork out of it.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Suspension2.html

Thanks, very helpful, 'cept math hurts my head! According to that, the cut end goes up? Still not sure which end to cut from. Sorry so many questions, just want to get it right (otherwise I'll be hitting you up for those 1000 springs dan!)

[Billy Ricks]

If it's a single rate spring the coils will all be the same so it won't matter which end you cut.

[Nessism]

I cut from the top. If the coils are progressively wound, cut the end which has the closer spaced coils. 4" would be a good place to start. Cut your spacer so it's flush with the top of the fork before installing the cap. PVC is cheap, you could always change things up as need be.

[C.V.]

Thanks!

As usual, the GSR come to the rescue! Seriously, you guys have been a huge help and I really appreciate it! I let you know how it goes, thanks again!

Vic

[Don-lo]

I’m not using air in my forks and the seals are holding just fine. Where did you get this information that the seals are different for air forks?

I think it was a Yamaha dealer who originally told me that, but then I have seen it with Suzukis over and over. I bought my GS1000 new in 80, and within a few years I saw that if the air pressure was down, it would leak. Air it up, it was fine. When I see a vintage bike with air forks and leaky seals, 4 out of 5 times air is all it needs (hahaha, my boss at the shop hated that: he made good money doing fork seals). I do regular maintenance on the seals too to keep them supple: spray Armor-all on the fork leg, slide the dust cap up into it, spin it, run a q-tip under the sealing edge, spray Armor-all down on the fork seal, pump the forks up and down, wipe and buff with paper towels, and reinstall dust seal. I put in progressive springs in 85, and together with the air (15 psi) I get a great ride for touring or sport. I can see the forks absorb even small bumps smoothly. The bike is 30 years old and has 115,000 miles, but have only changed seals once.

To me, the air is a win-win: it takes pressure off of the springs so they will last longer, and puts pressure on the seals so it seals better.

I assumed you guys who run no air were using a special seal. Maybe Suzuki upgraded the seal compound over the years so it works better with no-air. Maybe you'll be changing seals 3-5 years instead of 15.

[salty_monk]

I'm 2 years & 15k miles into a set.... wonder how any of the real mileage boys get on with them.

I still can't understand how mechanically it helps them seal....

I would start with your spacer at least 1/2" out of the fork.. I run my Skunk like that with the progressives at 165lb.

You know you can mix oil? If you find some 25w or 30w (a small pot for about 5 bucks) you could mix it with the 15wt in any proportion you like. Use half a small pot of thick stuff in each leg & top up with 15w.

To get the level in the leg get a spray trigger off one of the mrs kitchen type sprays & cut the straw to the right height, you can then simply lower it in the top of the fork leg & pump away until it stops squirting. Your oil will now be the right height. It's prob 140mm from the top.

Dan

[C.V.]

Oh, how things change...

First, thank all of you guys for all the great advice, it's what sets the GSR apart. Lots of good education here.

Heres the new news (from the department of redundancies department...)

CA has finally seen fit to deposit my state tax return...this changes things drastically! New Progressive springs ordered from MAW ($75 dollars shipped) with (sort of) the wifes blessing (didn't tell exactly HOW much I was spending, just that I was getting "the last of the crap I need for the bike...")

I apologise if all the previous questions were a waste of time, I learned a lot though and I appreciate it!

Any special stuff i should know before installing the springs? Esp tips for oil height without removing the forks, I saw someone had a trick for doing this, but can't find the thread.

Thanks again guys!

[salty_monk]

I think the only way to get the oil height without removing forks is to fill it accurately with the right volume of oil using a syringe or small measuring tower type thing....

You could also measure the oil at it's highest & lowest on the angle & take the midpoint I guess. Most important is that both sides are the same.

Dan

[Nessism]

Most important is that both sides are the same.

Dan

As Dan states, the actual level is less important than making sure both legs are the same. Just measure using the same method in each leg and you will be fine.

[C.V.]

As Dan states, the actual level is less important than making sure both legs are the same. Just measure using the same method in each leg and you will be fine.

Thanks gents! I'm sure i'll pop back up here when the parts arrive.

[bonanzadave]

There should be no air pressure against them if my thinking of how they work is correct.

Forgive me for coming in late...

Dont some people "blow" the seals out with compressed air to remove them ?

[salty_monk]

I've done that myself, after removing the oil so I guess there must be some air pressure against them... I still don't see how it would help them seal any better though. Maybe it forces the rubber tighter against the fork leg or something......

What I do know is putting more air in certainly didn't help the leaky seal I had on my G.. it made it worse.

Victor - I would think if you aimed to have the oil height just shy of 140mm (if that's the correct measurement for your bike) at the highest point you would be ok. Say 137mm or so.

Dan

[C.V.]

Done!

Thanks to the speedy folks at MAW, who got my springs to me in ONE day, for 75 bucks delivered! I am now riding in airless comfort, and more important, she is stable!

I added a bit over the spec'd amount of oil, then used the spray bottle trick to pump out the excess in each leg. A measured a hair under 140mm, per Dans suggestion, to compensate for the angle of the forks. Might not be exactly 140mm, but its very close, and the legs are even.

TIP, buy a damn pipe cutter! Cutting the pvc for the spacers with a hacksaw resulted in a hack job, and a bit of time with a file getting them flush. The left fork cap gave me 20 minutes of grief, but I defeated its evil nature, and forced it into submission!

She handles wonderfully well and much safer now. Thanks for all your help guys!!


Victor