Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

she runs but put it back togeather and now wont drive?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    she runs but put it back togeather and now wont drive?

    Ok so last summer on my GS550T (on the day I got my endorsment) it broke. it must have been a crappy chain cause it came off the socket and broke the clutch push rod,and obviously the oil seal.

    So after a lot of 20+ year old bolts that took for ever to get out and then finding a replacement push rod on the forum here(they dont make it any more.) I have the bike back togeather and running.

    heres my problem so I rebuilt the carbs and put every thing back together( yea I got new sprockets and chian.) I had it running the otehr night and back it into the drive way to drive her and I put it in gear only to find my self still sitting in the same spot NOT MOVEING!!!!. AHHHHHH I was a little mad......

    So what do I do now?
    I did take the clutch discs out and put them back in I did not put oil on them before hand(first time ever dealing with any sort of clutch espetially a wet one). I now know what I was supposed to do before I put them back in. but was I also supposed to sand the disks a little for better grip?

    I also just tightend the springs down all the way not super tight and maybe like a half turn out but didnt know there was specs to it.

    1.I am going to take it apart saterday
    2.What should I look for?
    3.how should I put it back together?
    4.????

    Thank you
    Jake

    #2
    The clutch spring should be all the way snug. Sounds like an adjustment problem with the clutch not engaging. Did you adjust the screw on the sprocket cover? Maybe you got the wrong pushrod? Is it longer than the old one?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      The clutch spring should be all the way snug. Sounds like an adjustment problem with the clutch not engaging. Did you adjust the screw on the sprocket cover? Maybe you got the wrong pushrod? Is it longer than the old one?
      no same size, but a while back during thanks giving( I know I should have been with all the relatives and fam but I guess we see whos more important......jk) I had it running and i drove it but the clutch was slipping so I couldnt get it past 15 mph and didnt really feel safe so I stoped and now I cant seem to get it to go at all.

      Comment


        #4
        Pull your clutch cover and tighten everything to spec - yes, there are torque values for these bolts!

        Check your service manual

        Then check the pushrod to see if it moves freely, Then your cable for proper adjustment

        Something is holding your clutch open. If it worked well before your mishap, the clutch itself is not the issue.

        Neither is not oiling the plates (they're not new plates, are they?)
        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
        2007 DRz 400S
        1999 ATK 490ES
        1994 DR 350SES

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Big T View Post
          Pull your clutch cover and tighten everything to spec - yes, there are torque values for these bolts!

          Check your service manual

          Then check the pushrod to see if it moves freely, Then your cable for proper adjustment

          Something is holding your clutch open. If it worked well before your mishap, the clutch itself is not the issue.

          Neither is not oiling the plates (they're not new plates, are they?)
          nah not new but I shouldnt sand them?

          Comment


            #6
            You can sand the metal ones with fine sandpaper to deglaze them if you want. Clean them really well before reinstalling.

            You did reinstall them exactly like they came out? Right?

            You problem doesn't sound like it's based in the metal plates.
            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
            2007 DRz 400S
            1999 ATK 490ES
            1994 DR 350SES

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Big T View Post
              You can sand the metal ones with fine sandpaper to deglaze them if you want. Clean them really well before reinstalling.

              You did reinstall them exactly like they came out? Right?

              You problem doesn't sound like it's based in the metal plates.

              I think I put them in the same way I took them out

              just a metal plate in between each clutch disk right?

              Comment


                #8
                A metal plate is on the inside of the clutch hub so start with a fiber and alternate.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                  A metal plate is on the inside of the clutch hub so start with a fiber and alternate.
                  ok good thats what I did I just put it back in the same way it came out.

                  I mean its pretty obvious how it goes in ya know.

                  But I will just take it apart and see what I get. I am also leaking oil from some where so that sucks but i guess I wil have to find that later

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I was skimming through so my apologies if this is a repeat, but you did make sure your clutch cable is fully releasing the actuator arm on the engine correct?

                    And yes, you do want to torque the spring bolts all the way down.

                    Also, can you go through the gears on the bike when it is running? I am aware the she doesn't move, but wanted to be sure it wasn't jammed in neutral or something of that sort.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by 82Shafty View Post
                      I was skimming through so my apologies if this is a repeat, but you did make sure your clutch cable is fully releasing the actuator arm on the engine correct?

                      And yes, you do want to torque the spring bolts all the way down.

                      Also, can you go through the gears on the bike when it is running? I am aware the she doesn't move, but wanted to be sure it wasn't jammed in neutral or something of that sort.
                      well thats the thing I didnt mention. I also just put on a differnt clutch cable my old one was fine......but was reallly stiff.

                      this "new" used one is off a different modle of 550 I think maybe an L because it is too long. so I might just put the old one back on.

                      would there be any other reason why my clutch cable is so hard to pull?

                      Also I put on a new mechanism that gets pulled by the clutch cable to push the push rod in and it seems to be to big for my chain because my end link hits it when I spin the wheel so I filed it down and it seemed to not hit it but once the rear wheel spun with me on it, it cought.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        any one know what to do about that?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by nisom512 View Post
                          well thats the thing I didnt mention. I also just put on a differnt clutch cable my old one was fine......but was reallly stiff.

                          this "new" used one is off a different modle of 550 I think maybe an L because it is too long. so I might just put the old one back on.

                          would there be any other reason why my clutch cable is so hard to pull?

                          Also I put on a new mechanism that gets pulled by the clutch cable to push the push rod in and it seems to be to big for my chain because my end link hits it when I spin the wheel so I filed it down and it seemed to not hit it but once the rear wheel spun with me on it, it cought.
                          How about you whack it in first with the engine off and you let us know if you can push it around the ol garage there.

                          If you can't, pull in the clutch and try with it in first, and really be sure you are in there. Normally you still can't move it and have to put it in neutral in order to move it.


                          Open up a photobucket account, post picture of your long actuator so we can all take a looksy.
                          Last edited by Guest; 03-11-2009, 05:32 PM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            It sounds like your problem is with that new pushrod pusher mechanism. Is there an adjustment screw in the outside of it? These are often adjusted too deep (especially if it is hitting your chain!). When they are adjusted too deep, they push the pushrod in as you are putting that cover on. There should be an access cover (1"x3"?) on the sprocket cover, and under that is the adjustment screw. Loosen the locknut and back that screw out a little. Retighten the locknut. See if that doesn't do it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Don-lo View Post
                              It sounds like your problem is with that new pushrod pusher mechanism. Is there an adjustment screw in the outside of it? These are often adjusted too deep (especially if it is hitting your chain!). When they are adjusted too deep, they push the pushrod in as you are putting that cover on. There should be an access cover (1"x3"?) on the sprocket cover, and under that is the adjustment screw. Loosen the locknut and back that screw out a little. Retighten the locknut. See if that doesn't do it.
                              sounds like a plan stan I will try this I dont really understand but I will take things apart and see what I can find

                              Thank you
                              Jake

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X