Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Bike Hoists

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Bike Hoists

    I bought a bike hoist/lift, the kind you use that jacks the bike up by the frame.

    Anyway, I got it home, not having looked at the bottom of my GS for the winter. I realize the pipes are totally in the way for this to work .

    Has anyone ever used one of these in a modified form, adapted for a GS. I have a small work area and it would be perfect for stowing away when not in use.

    #2
    You can use those, depending on exhaust, by using 2x4s to contact the frame instead of the exhaust. You need to be close to the center of gravity on the bike and I would recommend strapping the bike to the TOP of the lift to prevent rocking.

    Comment


      #3
      Do you just slide the 2 x 4s up along the frame, and then hoist it up? Or do you need to make a type of box frame so the 2 x 4's don't wobble?

      Thanks Don!

      Comment


        #4
        The other thing I thought of was creating a modified table; really two tables.

        If I can get it up with the hoist, then slide one table under the front tire then one under the rear tire; maybe with some type of wheel chock built into the table. Then you could just back the hoist away and have lots of room to work on stuff.

        Comment


          #5
          Bike on sidestand. Bring the lift in from the opposite (right) side.The lift needs to go back on the frame (towards the rear wheel) to find the center of gravity. You may need 2 pieces of 2x4 to get good purchase on the frame per side (to avoid the sidestand mount, for instance). You may also be able to use 2x2 blocks between the exhaust, on the oil pan, but the wider the separation, the better. Pump the lift up until the far side (sidestand side) comes close to contacting the blocks. Adjust the blocks so they are a good and solid connection between the frame and the lift. Pump up to contact, then check again. If you KNOW it is good, then hold the right handlebar and pump the lift up further. The bike should come off the sidestand EVENLY toward you. Continue until the right frame comes close to contact with the right-hand blocks. Adjust these blocks so they are a good and solid connection between the frame and the lift. If you KNOW it is good, then hold the right handlebar and pump the lift up further. When all 4 contact evenly, recheck one more time that they are solid and will not slip. If they are, pump it up a little more and see how it feels. I personally shake the bike to see how solid it feels, then strap the bike to the TOP of the lift (if you strap it to the bottom of the lift, it will pull the bike over as you continue to lift ). Continue to shake and lift, and see if both wheels come off the ground at mostly the same time. If it looks good, then you can continue up to max out the lift and set the parking brake, at which time you will see that you really haven't raised it that much at all . Ok, it is a little more comfortable for some things. Do not remove heavy parts of the bike, such as gas tank or wheels, when the bike is high because this can severely affect the balance. Do those things only with the bike close to the ground.

          You have a hoist??!!

          Comment


            #6
            "You have a hoist??!!"

            No, I just called the jack a hoist .

            I am not sure if I am going to keep it. I am not interested in tipping the bike over on me or on my garage floor.

            Comment


              #7
              Ryonker, I looked at this type of lift a few years ago and also wondered about the stability of it. I think these lifts are more for HD's and cruiser type bikes that have the pipes coming out from the side. It might work if you made a custom mounting bracket to go under the frame and bolt to the top of the lift runners. Even then it could possibly get unstable as Don-lo mentioned when removing the wheels or any other heavy part of the bike. I ended up getting one of these lifts with the XLT kit for my lawn tractor. Very stable IMHO, I actually never even use the wheel chocks and just roll the bike up and put it on the centerstand to work. I rarely strap the bike down unless doing some heavy wrenching or taking the tires off. They also have one with the rear drop table but at least for shafties I have never needed it for wheel removal. I use a scissor jack under the bike and ratchet straps for stability if I am taking the wheels off. The downside is that this type does take up floor space but if you have a pickup you might be be able to pull over the top with enough clearance. I am normally a cheap bast*rd but this type of lift is worth every penny IMHO.



              I have also heard this one is pretty good and it is less expensive

              82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
              81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
              83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
              06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
              AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)

              Comment


                #8
                Here is a long thread on bike lifts. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=135035
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment

                Working...
                X