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Missing e-clip in fuel inlet valve.... HELP

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    #16
    Okay, you posted the photos and answered the question about the rings on the seats. I think it's down to two things, float height or you shaved off a bit of o-ring reinstalling the seats. That float needle seems to be worn where it seats and may not be sealing right.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Billy Ricks View Post
      Okay, you posted the photos and answered the question about the rings on the seats. I think it's down to two things, float height or you shaved off a bit of o-ring reinstalling the seats. That float needle seems to be worn where it seats and may not be sealing right.

      Thats the needle off my trashed set of carbs. My buddy has the same bike and he had to get new carbs so he gave me his old ones (parts and pieces)

      I just used his as refference.

      Ill snap photos of how im setting float height real quick. I really dont see how i could be getting that wrong but i never know..

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        #18
        Okay again trashed carbs as refferance:

        setting float height from gasket (without gasket installed) side of carb to "highest" side of float.




        24mm per spec



        bent tab to adjust height



        detail of bent tab




        That tab seems awfully bent. Shouldnt it be a little more straight?!?! Then again, the more bend it is, the lower the float begins to activate the inlet valve, and the lower the fuel in the bowl. The lower the fuel in the bowl, the less likly for overfill and drain from the vent t's right?

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          #19
          Float height on CV carbs should be 22.4. You're close enough that they shoudn't be leaking though. I think you are supposed to be measuring from the flat surface the tang attaches to though.

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            #20
            Measure at the step down on the float. It appears you are measuring right but the bend in the float tang looks awfully agressive. Did you zero out the digital caliper?
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #21
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              Measure at the step down on the float. It appears you are measuring right but the bend in the float tang looks awfully agressive. Did you zero out the digital caliper?
              I couldn't remember the exact spot on the float to measure from. I haven't run CVs in years. The bend does look excessive.

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                #22
                Yeah, ive zeroed out the caliper. Have every time i re set the float. I thought the angle on the tang was excessive.

                Im set at 22.4 now. but thats hardly any change on the tab. Still pretty steep.

                I know there is a clear tube test to measure fuel height from the outside of the carb when installed in the bike using the drain screw hole.
                Anyone know exactly what level the fuel is supposed to be at when referencing the carb bowl?

                I think im going to try this test and if it looks good, i know its the inlet valve seat o ring.

                I am also measuring from the step of the float.

                This is frusterating. Thanks guys for your input!!
                I couldnt have ever gotten this far wothout you guys.

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                  #23
                  Does the little pin sticking out of the float needle have a spring action in and out? If not you need new needles. I've seen these stuck from bad gas sitting in the carbs for years.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                    #24
                    Yeah. All the little spring fitted pins in each needle work easily. A little soft, but they still hold the floats up then the carbs are overturned.

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                      #25
                      Am I right in thinking the pic with the excessivly bent tab is from trashed carbs, not the actual carbs we are discussing? If so, its maybe not an issue.

                      Did mine not so long ago and as a test, with the bowls off and the carbs upside down, blew into the fuel line as hard as I could.
                      With just the weight of the float against the needle, I could get no air to pass.

                      Not sure if thats a good test or not as I've not gassed up the bike yet, but if you do it and find one leaking, you've narrowed down the search.
                      sigpic
                      Current bikes:
                      1982 GSX750EZ, 1989 CBR600F
                      Previous bikes:
                      More BSA Bantams than you can shake a stick at
                      Bultaco 350 Trials, BSA C15
                      1971 BSA B25SS Gold Star 250, 1969 BSA A65 Lightning
                      1976 HONDA CB750 K6

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by jmlcolorado View Post

                        I know there is a clear tube test to measure fuel height from the outside of the carb when installed in the bike using the drain screw hole.
                        Anyone know exactly what level the fuel is supposed to be at when referencing the carb bowl?

                        I think im going to try this test and if it looks good, i know its the inlet valve seat o ring.
                        According to my 650 manual, the static fuel level is 5.0 +/- 1.0 mm from where the bowl connects to the carb body. That means the fuel level on each carb is 5 mm below top edge of carb bowl. This is measured with engine running between 1200 and 1500 rpm. Not sure if this applies directly to your bike.

                        I find it really difficult to measure on bike with motor running, plus how do you adjust when carbs are on bike. I mount up carbs in a vise and use an auxiliary tank to supply fuel. The key here is to get the carbs mounted at the approximate angle as mounted on bike and then I measure the static fuel level in each carb. This is fairly messy working with gasoline, often wondered if you could use water. I digress, I will set floats initially and then if needed fine tune with fuel level readings. Makes it real easy to figure out which carb is dumping fuel. Good luck.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Stefnwolf View Post
                          Am I right in thinking the pic with the excessivly bent tab is from trashed carbs, not the actual carbs we are discussing? If so, its maybe not an issue.

                          Did mine not so long ago and as a test, with the bowls off and the carbs upside down, blew into the fuel line as hard as I could.
                          With just the weight of the float against the needle, I could get no air to pass.

                          Not sure if thats a good test or not as I've not gassed up the bike yet, but if you do it and find one leaking, you've narrowed down the search.

                          The excessivly bent tab IS from the trashed carbs BUT, all my good carbs are exactly the same way

                          And i was just going to ask if this was a good test cause i tried it yesterday and it blows masses of air through the carbs. (blowing air)

                          Even when i manually close all the floats. Seems to be comming out the vent lines.........Ironicly, the same place fuel is pouring out at a retarded rate.


                          Im getting my neighbors carbs sometime today, hopefully, cause his were "professionally" rebuilt and has been working on his gs1000.

                          Im missing something somewhere pretty bad. Now that its a new day, im going to roll through the carbs one more time today.

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                            #28
                            WOW!!! I feel like a total dumbass!!!!

                            Its fixed. Turns out durring the rebuild of the carbs, i swaped locations of the Vent T and the fuel tubes!!!

                            Okay i know, i know cut me some slack. First carbs ive ever touched

                            But never the less. Here are some photos for anyone that has fuel leaking from the vent t baddly:





                            Notice the WRONG locations of the two tubes!!!

                            Totally makes since now.


                            Thanks a TON for everyones help here!!! You guys are saviors!

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Glad you got it sorted.
                              Live and learn.
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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