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Missing e-clip in fuel inlet valve.... HELP

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    Missing e-clip in fuel inlet valve.... HELP

    Im rebuilding my carbs and found out im missing the e-clip that holds the fuel inlet needle valve in the seat.

    Is this super important? What will happen if these are not in place?

    Wont the valve work okay as the float will hold them in place just fine?

    #2
    I don't think any of my carbs have the little wire clip on top on the fuel inlet needle valve. I certainly don't remember futzing with them like I have had to with my KLX. They are sorta like the little brake switch spring, there one moment and into the deepest darkest corner of your garage the next.

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      #3
      Okay great! i dodnt think so. I lost one as it shot across the room when cleaning. i have the other three but i didnt really see a purpose.

      Thanks a ton!!

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        #4
        I never reinstall those. The only purpose I can see for those if you end up upside down it keeps the needle from coming out of the float seat.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          is there supposed to be a tiny o ring INSIDE the Fruel inlet valve seat? Or does the needle simply press into the hole (brass housing) in the seat to stop fuel?

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            #6
            Im going nuts here!!!! I got everything together and fired the bike up but its leaking feul out both vent tubes baddly!

            I pulled the carbs off, checked float height, 24mm (1980 gs1000g)

            I even changed height to 22.4, i read the wrong specs somewhere.

            Everything in these carbs is new. All new o rings, new larger jets (five up from stock to compensate for pods and flow through exhaust. Carb dipped and reassembled.

            Ive adjusted my air screws everywhere from one turn from seated, all the wasy to 4 turns from seated. No change.

            Any ideas?

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              #7
              Originally posted by jmlcolorado View Post
              is there supposed to be a tiny o ring INSIDE the Fruel inlet valve seat? Or does the needle simply press into the hole (brass housing) in the seat to stop fuel?
              It should just be a solid brass tapered seat and the inlet needle should have a rubber tip on the end of it that makes the seal.

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                #8
                Originally posted by jmlcolorado View Post
                Im going nuts here!!!! I got everything together and fired the bike up but its leaking feul out both vent tubes baddly!

                I pulled the carbs off, checked float height, 24mm (1980 gs1000g)

                I even changed height to 22.4, i read the wrong specs somewhere.

                Everything in these carbs is new. All new o rings, new larger jets (five up from stock to compensate for pods and flow through exhaust. Carb dipped and reassembled.

                Ive adjusted my air screws everywhere from one turn from seated, all the wasy to 4 turns from seated. No change.

                Any ideas?
                Float level..... I have heard of people setting the float height off of the wrong part of the float. Fuel coming out of the vents is way high float level or something not allowing them to seat closed. Was it doing this before you got in there? Did you have to adjust the float heights? When you put the inlet seats back in did you put the little round gaskets under the seats?

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                  #9
                  If you pulled the seats it's real easy to shave a bit of the o-ring off reinstalling them if you don't oil up the o-rings to reinstall. You either have a bad seat, bad o-ring, bad float needle, or the floats are set wrong. Make sure the petcock isn't on prime. Even that shouldn't matter though with what you are experiencing. If the petcock is working right though you shouldn't have fuel continue to flow when the engine is not running.

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                    #10
                    certinly no rubber on anything on the valve. Needle is solid metal as well as the seat. Nothing inside. I thought maybe there should be a small o ring in there to act as a positive seal rather then just metal to metal.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Billy Ricks View Post
                      If you pulled the seats it's real easy to shave a bit of the o-ring off reinstalling them if you don't oil up the o-rings to reinstall. You either have a bad seat, bad o-ring, bad float needle, or the floats are set wrong. Make sure the petcock isn't on prime. Even that shouldn't matter though with what you are experiencing. If the petcock is working right though you shouldn't have fuel continue to flow when the engine is not running.
                      \Fuel is not running without the motor on. I know cause ive pulled the tank a few times to remove the carbs petcock is okay. im freakin missing something here

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                        #12
                        Did you replace the o-rings on the seats? It is real easy to shave one side flat reintalling the seats.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Bribird View Post
                          Float level..... I have heard of people setting the float height off of the wrong part of the float. Fuel coming out of the vents is way high float level or something not allowing them to seat closed. Was it doing this before you got in there? Did you have to adjust the float heights? When you put the inlet seats back in did you put the little round gaskets under the seats?
                          I thought it was float level too.

                          I have no clue if it was doing this before. I got the bike after it sat for ten years. This is the first time ive known it to start for that legnth of time as far as i know. hence the rebuild.

                          I got a kit from cycle o rings.com it had a bag with some tiny ass o rings (4 total) the size of the "air screw" rings. I thought that was what they were so i didnt use them. I got new air screws with new o rings.

                          Now im thinking they go in the end of the inlet needle?! they dont really fit right in the seat hole. really loose.
                          Last edited by Guest; 03-14-2009, 07:52 PM.

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                            #14
                            okay heres the needle.




                            And the seat.





                            No small round gasket anywhere in this equation except on the outside of the seat where it seals to the carb body when installed


                            Dont mind the ugly fingers

                            The needle just drops in there.
                            Last edited by Guest; 03-14-2009, 07:53 PM.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by jmlcolorado View Post
                              I thought it was float level too.

                              I have no clue if it was doing this before. I got the bike after it sat for ten years. This is the first time ive known it to start for that legnth of time as far as i know. hence the rebuild.

                              I got a kit from cucly o rings.com it had a bag with some tiny ass o rings (4 total) Te=he size of the "air screw" rings. I thought that was what they weere so i didnt use them. I got new air screws with new o rings.

                              Now im thinking they go in the end of the inlet needle?! they dont really fit right in the seat hole. really loose.
                              They were for the mixture screws, nothing goes on the float needles. Did you pull the float seats and replace the o-rings on them?

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