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1981 16v 750 oil cooler idea...opinions?

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    1981 16v 750 oil cooler idea...opinions?

    Okay, the way I see it is that adding a cooler robs oil from important components and takes it away from the filter stream. Here's my idea for avoiding both issues and I would like the all-knowing here to lend ideas.

    Oil will be sourced from the spout located beneath the points cover.

    Oil will flow from the source to a separate filter housing (using a standard canister style oil filter) that I'll locate beneath the carburetors. I've also considered using an inline high pressure fuel filter, but don't really know the difference between the flow characteristics of an oil filter vs. a fuel filter.

    Oil will flow from the filter to the oil cooler, which will be located in the typical area.

    Oil will flow from the cooler to ports on the valve cover, draining in over the #1 and #4 cylinders. This may sound like a hassle for installing and removing the cover but I've got a way around that but it's hard to describe...I'll post pics of the drawings and concept later.

    Opinions?

    #2
    How about this...run synthetic oil like Shell Rotella. Synthetic oil has better film strength and will provide protection at higher temps than dino oil. GS engines are HEAVY and have a lot of metal in them to disapate heat. As long as the oil temp stays down below 275 F or so, I don't think there is serious concern.

    Sounds like you should install a proper oil temp gauge and see what reality is before worrying too much.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      I have one ...my temps are in the 195*f range...it's more for kicks now.

      Comment


        #4
        Dumping the oul back in over the combustion chambers may not be ideal. That's where oil picks up most of its heat. Getting it back to the pan first would be ideal.

        Comment


          #5
          Well that was my original idea but everyone thought robbing the oil from the system and returning it to the pan was a bad idea. I thought this woul work similar to a top-end oiler.

          Comment


            #6
            You'll probably be able to lubricate the bottom end fine with your proposal on sending the oil to the valves. In the production implimentation the 'split' from bottom end to top end is made at the base of the cylinders, then routed to the top end through a bolt passage. So, you just moved the split a foot upstream. What bothers me is that you're probably not solving anything, unless of course, you are running oversized head bolts and hence have a restriced oil flow to the head.

            As to the idea of tapping the port below the ignition cover, I believe that's directly in line with output of the old filter. It should work as a good oil source as long as you block the old path to the cylinder base. If you don't do that, only a portion of the oil will flow through your added route. The second issue with placing a fitting there - don't drop it on the right side. There's a strong possibility the fitting will break off and you're done no matter how slight the accident. You'll probably need case savers.

            The 16v engines are low-pressure, high-flow, so you'll need a filter to match. Putting a high-pressure filter in-line with your lubrication sysxtem would be catastrophic. If you intend on using the original filter why do you need another?

            One thing to mention - coolers do not rob oil from important components and take it away from the filter stream - correctly installed that is.

            Your idea should work fine (no matter what return path you use - cylinder base or head), if you plan to use case savers, if you eliminate the external filter, and don't care that there is a possibly less restrictive path through the engine. It's really not a bad idea, I just think you (I believe it was you) had a better idea of tapping from the oil filter cover. That point would be about a foot upstream of the one under the points cover and out of harms way.

            Comment


              #7
              The idea was to install a banjo bolt and banjo, then a hard line routing the oil along the curve of the points cover to the area under the carbs.

              It was my understanding, though, that the 16v engine was high pressure/low volume.

              I got more stuff to write but no time...lol...will return.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by makenzie71 View Post
                The idea was to install a banjo bolt and banjo, then a hard line routing the oil along the curve of the points cover to the area under the carbs.

                It was my understanding, though, that the 16v engine was high pressure/low volume.

                I got more stuff to write but no time...lol...will return.
                The 16v'ers are low pressure. I'm not sure about other Suzuki's.

                Even if they were high pressure systems, you'd be mixing filters for different viscosities. It would be a giant restriction. Why do you want an external filter anyway? Do you intend to not use the production unit?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by reddirtrider View Post
                  The 16v'ers are low pressure. I'm not sure about other Suzuki's.

                  Even if they were high pressure systems, you'd be mixing filters for different viscosities. It would be a giant restriction. Why do you want an external filter anyway? Do you intend to not use the production unit?
                  The 16v 750 has a high pressure bottom end since it has plain bearings on the crank. The top end does not need much pressure, just a steady flow.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The only reason I posted about dumping the oil over the combustion chambers is that the oil would be heated up again before it reaches the rest of the engine. On one hand it might defeat the purpose of the cooler. On the other hand you would be cooling the combustion chambers a little and that would be desirable. It might even lower the overall temps in the long run. I guess there's only one way to fnd out.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The inline filter idea was just a passing thought...I assumed it wouldn't be applicable, but would be convenient. I don't like open element filters, though. I MUCH prefer canister types...though I wouldn't be bypassing it entirely. I just wanted to make sure the oil to the cooler was filtered, but if the tap under the points cover is filtered oil then that's redundant.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                        The 16v 750 has a high pressure bottom end since it has plain bearings on the crank. The top end does not need much pressure, just a steady flow.
                        The 16v 750 doesn't have roller bearings on the crank? Wow, never knew that. Ok, I was wrong. You still can't use a fuel filter for oil.

                        Yep, looked some up on Ebay and they sure don't have roller bearings. Cheap pieces of crap. lol
                        Last edited by Guest; 03-15-2009, 03:37 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by reddirtrider View Post
                          The 16v 750 doesn't have roller bearings on the crank? Wow, never knew that. Ok, I was wrong. You still can't use a fuel filter for oil.

                          Yep, looked some up on Ebay and they sure don't have roller bearings. Cheap pieces of crap. lol
                          Think Hayabusas are crap too? cause they and all other modern bikes have plain bearings.
                          Edit: I got more:
                          18,000 rpm F-1 cars
                          Nascar engines
                          5,000 HP nitromethane Top Fuel Funny cars and dragsters
                          Last edited by Guest; 03-15-2009, 11:05 PM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If you're going to return the oil to the topend how about utilizing a topend oiler kit?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Doesn't a top-end oiler just dump the oil on/around the cams?

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