Anyone ever done their own valve job?

[Nessism]

I did my GS1k head with neway cutters that I have had for 30 years. I also bought the suzuki guide hole reamer to install suzuki OS guides. No bigge. Dan

Still have those cutters Dan? Care to rent them to me?

[Dan Ruddock]

PM sent. Dan

[omaharj]

http://omaha.craigslist.org/tls/1076553322.html

I don't know if this is relevant or not. I'm Sargent Schultz on this one..... "I know NOTHINK!"

[82Shafty]

I did my GS1k head with neway cutters that I have had for 30 years. I also bought the suzuki guide hole reamer to install suzuki OS guides. No bigge. Dan

Ed is she burning oil on start up, or have you done a cyl leak down test and discovered that your one or both valves per cyl aren't up to snuff? I would not go by a compression test alone?

Valves:

Check for stem run out and/or wear
Check tips for wear
On average the stem by the head is .001 inch less than by the tip
Ensure there is adequate margin left to allow a quick grind (this will raise stem height along with cutting the seat.)
Check keeper grooves for wear
Check valve Lock grooves
Check current seat contact---I'm not sure what Suzi specs, but on average I run with 1/16" for intake contact and 3/32" for exhaust valve to seat contact
Measure Valve overhang before hand as well
Make sure the guide is not flanged as this will determine what side it needs to be driven out from
On most alum heads, you drive the guide out towards combusion chamber side
Also, you can throw the head in the oven @ 400 for 15 mins to allow for an easier removal of the guides.

Dry ice works well for slipping in new guides as well as good ol lubrication

Also be sure to get a measurment of guide height before taking the old ones out.





I'm with Dan on this one:

If you have to replace guides, one way to measure wear is using the valve and a dial indicator, given the stem isn't worn out on the valve, or you can use a split ball or small bore gauge to measure the bore of the guide, the choice is yours. Maybe she just needs a new set of seals.

Replace the guides before you do any cutting.

Do you have a spec that has installed stem height measurement along with the valve margin spec? Some valves only allow so much to be taken off of the stem before you get to the innards usually no more than .020" inch; keep that in mind.

Are you installing new valve springs or having them tested at least?

As far as rings, I would check with the ring manufacturer what microinch finish you need to obtain. This will determine what grit stone you want to use to hone your cyl bores with.

You will also want to observe the cross hatch angle you finish the cyl with. Generally, the boring puts the foundation in for the angle, and the ball stones (honing) slimply plateau the peaks for the final microinch finish which acts as a bearing surface on which an oil film can form. The valleys allow for oil reservation, oil distribution, and offer a place for worn metal and abrasive particles to reside until washed away.

The true peformance nutters will torque the cylinders as they finish honing them.


When cleaning anything after the machining process, HOT SOAPY WATER is the only proven way as solvents alone will not wash away debris.


Sorry, was just going off the top of my head with some random thoughts, hope this helps.

[Nessism]

Good info 82Shafty, thanks.

I measured the valve to stem clearance using a dial indicator and the guides are worn. The valves all measure within the "standard", and well above the "limit" (which is pretty useless when it comes to valves I've decided). The exhaust valve guides show the most wear.

The seats all look good, but because of the guides, I'm going to have to touch them up after the new guides are in place. Hopefully, the amount of cutting will be minimal.

I'm using factory rings and there is no information on finish requirement in the service manual I could find...thus my question here.

Thanks again.

[82Shafty]

Good info 82Shafty, thanks.

I measured the valve to stem clearance using a dial indicator and the guides are worn. The valves all measure within the "standard", and well above the "limit" (which is pretty useless when it comes to valves I've decided). The exhaust valve guides show the most wear.

The seats all look good, but because of the guides, I'm going to have to touch them up after the new guides are in place. Hopefully, the amount of cutting will be minimal.

I'm using factory rings and there is no information on finish requirement in the service manual I could find...thus my question here.

Thanks again.

With the cutter you were talking about using, I found out that less is more. In otherwords, as you start to turn increase pressure and as you are running out of wrist action decrease pressure. I could usually get a clean cut in one wrist action. I'm sure you've already read up on the throat, top and seat method. Also check to ensure that you did not side load the cutter, you will see this in the seat width circumference.

When using the machine, it was not more than 1.5 turns as you could quickly take too much out a seat.


MMMMM I still remember pulling a freshly cut valve out of the Kwik way grinder. Dressing the stones before hand, the smell of the machine oil... good stuff.

Now I see you could just get some Giz .... the Gizmatic from Neway. I have never used this so I can not speak for its qaulity.

http://www.newayts.com.au/refacers.htm