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    Cold air/pods

    Would pods on my carbs cause problems in cooler weather?

    I finally solved the no idle problem air screws were only 1 turn out. After the fastest idle method they are roughly 2.5 turns out.

    Now in morning when air temp is 45deg F bike seems to hesitate, miss under acceleration in roughly 3000 to 5000 rpm range.

    This afternoon when air temp 70 + bike runs as smooth as silk through all rpm ranges.

    Is this symptom common with PODS?

    #2
    Air temps, regardless of whether you have pods, airbox, or even velocity stacks are going to have an effect on the mixture. Cold air is more dense than warm air, thus your mixture is going to be more lean in colder temps.

    I used to fiddle around with jetting during winter months when most of my riding was in the 40-50 degree range, and again in the summer when most days are 85-90. I got tired of it and found a happy medium where both seem to be happy. Now, I generally have more power in the cooler temps and they run a bit more rich all summer. I loose little power in the summer, but I'd rather be a bit rich in the hot weather.

    I used to have chart which showed how much the mixture changes at various temps, elevation and humidity levels. If I could find it, I would post it.

    Comment


      #3
      Hopefully you have a Dynojet kit or adjustable needles with the pods. Lower the needle a half notch by adding a washer on top of the e-clip keeping it on the same notch.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #4
        If it is running poorly when the temp is low (high density air) and better when the temp is high (low density air) I would tend to say he is on the lean side and that it would benifit from raising the needle. Lowering the needle will most likely complicate the problem.

        the washer I believe should be placed below the needle in the slide to effectively raise the needle increasing fuel flow.

        as the needle assembly is held down with spring pressure placing anything above the e-clip has no effect on tuning, it merely compresses the spring further. it is common to move the washer from below to above the e-clip during tuning this has the same effect as removin the washer all together but gives you a convinient place to store the washer incase you would like to replace it below the e-clip in the future.

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          #5
          Thanks folks. Never a time when you can't be counted on to answer a question no matter how many times it has been repeated on here.

          I thought it was lean. PO had pilot circuit with bigger jet but tuned way lean . I think a little richer would be called for here too

          Comment


            #6
            76FJ55 is right. Do you have a needle with adjustable notches? If not you'll have to remove the plastic spacer over the needle's clip and replace it with washers to the same heigth as with the spacer. Remove two washers and this is like raising the needle one notch.
            Sorry for the confusion (on my part)
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

            Comment


              #7
              I am not sure what I have to many hours spent at work and running with the kids. Not enough time for motorcycling.

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