Float measurement question

[Anonymous]

1979 GS550L:

I took the carbs out and popped open the float bowls, took a ruler to the floats. The Haynes manual says they need to be at 1.02" from the gasket flange to the top of the floats (with carbs upside down) in the closed position. What is closed? Is that when the floats (the plastic pieces) are away from the carb body, or snug against it, or where they hang naturally according to their adjustment?
If the latter, all floats are pretty off but match each other. If the float must be away from the carb body, then all floats are just slightly off but also match each other. Actually, they don't "match" perfectly in either case - the outers are matched to each other, and the same for the inners.

Also, I cleaned them out with Chemtool carb cleaner, and that seemed to leave a little bit of a powdery residue on the float tangs. Any thoughts? I've used this same cleaner on many carbs with no ill effects. Should I not have sprayed it directly on the floats? I cleaned off the residue as best I could. There's just enough of it to take away the shine of the little tang pieces.

The original symptoms, by the way, were a bad petcock - stuck in the PRI position (some aftermarket piece of junk), which got the air filter soaked, and the bike didn't want to start, only crank over. Spark plugs were black. Originally, on the way down to my place, it rode 40 miles on the highway with no problems, though it didn't like idling all too much. The bike had sat for 6-8 months prior to that. So I'm cleaning out the carbs, the air filter, the plugs, replacing the petcock, and I changed the oil.

[Anonymous]

When you hold the carbs upside down to check the float level, they are closed. That is the position they take when right side up and floating in gas.

[Anonymous]

Thanks, Gary! Then I should be OK, I think, as they were all set similarly, and nothing seemed in need of replacing. I was thinking of rebuilding all the carbs while I had 'em out, but really, they weren't even that dirty.

[Jay B]

Sat 6 to 8 months. Get rid of all that gas. Its bad, old, crap. Put some frest stuff in there and see how she runs if you havent already.

[Anonymous]

Jay, the guy I bought it from had put in a gallon of fresh gas, most of which was gone before we even got her home (40 miles). However, I doubt the carbs were drained in the time that it sat, and the aftermarket fuel tap seems to have taken a turn for the worse - if it's stuck on Prime, what else might be wrong with it?

So I drained the carbs, sprayed 'em out, and slapped them back in. The fuel tank seems immaculate on the inside, and the one fuel line (?? only one?) is good to go. That leaves the fuel tap. I'm waiting on a used one now, and the tank is already drained, so I don't want to fire her up till I have a good petcock on it. It *should* run great now (fingers crossed).

[Anonymous]

Petcock Option

A wise man once told me...

... actually I read this in the Old Q&A section: short of dropping in a new petcock or rebuilding (did that once, didn't work long), I went to the local hardware store and bought a simple open/close in-line valve made for lawnmowers and other small engines for $4.95.

I put it in the main fuel line between the petcock and the carbs, and it works fine. If I was restoring, or wanted the bike in "original condition", I'd go the new petcock route, but if you just want it fixed now so you can ride it, this is an inexpensive way to accomplish that goal.

Regarding the "one fuel line" question, my bike is an '80 GS850G and I think Suzuki changed carbs between '79 and '80, so this may not be the case with your bike, but... on the '80's and onward in most cases, Suzuki had a vacumn line from the petcock to a point between the 1st and 2nd carb. The vacumn pulled the gas down from the tank, past a diaphram in the petcock and into the fuel line. If you've only got one spot to attach a hose to the petcock, never mind... but if you have two, run a hose from the petcock to a spot in the front of, and between, the 1st and 2nd carbs. Just a thought... good luck!

Jon

[Anonymous]

Thanks, I was looking for a cheap shutoff valve, but never thought of looking in a lawnmower shop. As for the vacuum line, there are two hose nipples on the carbs, but no hoses. Gas came out of them when I turned the carbs upside down before I drained the gas from the float bowls. When I get the petcock in (this week!), I'll check for vacuum once I start the motor up. I'm not sure what these may do?

The current offbrand petcock does have two fittings, but the other (non-gas) is connected to the carbs. It's a smaller line than the ones mentioned above.

Lastly, there is a part under the tank, just a few inches from the petcock, with a hose fitting as well. Again, not connected. Looks like a flat housing of some sort. Any ideas?

[Anonymous]

I have one hose that goes from the tank to atmosphere -- I assume it's a vent. Could that be the one you're referring to?

Michael

[Anonymous]

Hm, yeah - that could be what it is. I'll try looking at the Haynes manual again later to be sure, but I couldn't find it the first time (I did it in a hurry). Thanks!