Chain Life

[jbs80106]

Very intersting thread...

not attempting to hijack it!

As my first and only bike is a shaftie, I was always curious about chains, now I know more!

[chuckycheese]

Links

The first thing I do when I buy a new chain is count the links. Did you do that?

Did the chain adjuster seem to be in the 'new chain' position when you first installed it?

[Bufallobiff]

"I have never cleaned the chain but I lube it about twice a month I do not remember what the lube is off the top of my head but I dont think I neglect it."

Most lubes and "waxes" are sticky and attract dirt. You should clean this off periodically and start over. With proper maintenance, a good "O" ring chain should last significantly longer than 6000 miles. I have put 3 chains on the same set of sprockets and still gotten decent mileage out of them. If there is still plenty of meat on the sprocket, I leave it there

[earlfor]

Gang,
I put the new tire on today and noticed the Chain Adjuster is already maxed out. this chain might have 6k on it. I keep it lose all the time 1.5 in of slack. Why would it have such a short life on it?

Pat

The number 1 cause of short chain life is too much tension. Number 2 is grit accumulation and lack of maintenance. An inch and a half of slack is probably ok if it is an inch and a half when the bike is sitting on its tires with you on it. I set chain slack with the bike on the center stand. My body weight causes about an inch of suspension compression and the bike's weight adds another inch. That, plus the normal 1 1/2 to 2" of slack I want to have when the bike is underway with me on it means I set nearly 4" of slack in the lower run of the chain when the bike is on the center stand. I averaged 25k miles on a chain/sprocket set for the 1150E. I just changed the original chain and sprockets on the Bandit 12 at 28K.

Sprockets do not noticably wear in the valleys. A stretched chain will wear one side of the teeth on the sprocket giving the teeth a beveled, chisel edge. The teeth should look squared off with flat ends.

I only adjust my chain when I replace my rear tire. That works out to one chain adjustment about every 6k miles. I wipe down and lube about once a week with a dry teflon rubber conditioner and rust inhibitor that I buy at Lowes. It is not sticky and does not attract or hold grit.

Earl

[jabberjoe87]

since this is already a chain thread... the tension in my chain will get loose and then really tight and loose again as the wheel rotates, teh chain and sprockets have been replaced by the previous owner and are not worn out. I replaced the rear sprocket as it was bent ( i guess the bike fell over at somepoint) I put my wheel back on the bike and tension the chain, it still does the same thing. I figured my chain is kinked, so since it is so close to riding season and practically is i ordered a chain. This better be the fix. I'll keep my kinked chain and clean it real well and try to get the kinks out of it as it still has life while my new chain is on the bike. I'm assuming the front sprocket isn't bent, that would be hard to do. Does this sound like a good idea anyone?

[focus frenzy]

not attempting to hijack it!

As my first and only bike is a shaftie, I was always curious about chains, now I know more!

shafties rule!!! so much simpler and easier to maintain, you are out riding while the chain gang is slaving away messing with chains! LOL

my 1100E came to me with a real fancy gold colored side plate X-ring chain and it is not wearing at all. I have yet to have to adjust it.

my SV1000N came from the factory with a RK X-ring chain and I just replaced it at 15K miles due to it slinging rust out from behind the rings and it was starting to bind. it was at about 5/8ths on the adjustment range.
the new chain is a OEM RK X-ring and I be damned if Suzuki didn't make the slots a half link to short and with the new chain on and adjusted to spec the axle is 5/8ths back on the adjustment range!

I don't know if it is the same stuff as you are using Earl, but I have switched to using Dupont "Teflon multi-use dry wax lubricant" I got from Lowe's. it is the hot new thing and is sweeping like wild fire on the motorcycle forums.

great stuff! very clean and it wont fling off all over the back wheel and it reduces friction.

[Nessism]

since this is already a chain thread... the tension in my chain will get loose and then really tight and loose again as the wheel rotates, teh chain and sprockets have been replaced by the previous owner and are not worn out. I replaced the rear sprocket as it was bent ( i guess the bike fell over at somepoint) I put my wheel back on the bike and tension the chain, it still does the same thing. I figured my chain is kinked, so since it is so close to riding season and practically is i ordered a chain. This better be the fix. I'll keep my kinked chain and clean it real well and try to get the kinks out of it as it still has life while my new chain is on the bike. I'm assuming the front sprocket isn't bent, that would be hard to do. Does this sound like a good idea anyone?

Tight and loose spots on a chain are a sign of wear. If the bike has sat a long time you could try to loosen it up by soaking in kerosene or similar, and then check it again after a few hundred miles of use. If the tightness doesn't go away on a chain in regular use, the chain is junk and should be trashed.

[jabberjoe87]

well good thing i ordered new stuff, even though the expected delivery date is april 1st!!!

[earlfor]

shafties rule!!! so much simpler and easier to maintain, you are out riding while the chain gang is slaving away messing with chains! LOL

I don't know if it is the same stuff as you are using Earl, but I have switched to using Dupont "Teflon multi-use dry wax lubricant" I got from Lowe's. it is the hot new thing and is sweeping like wild fire on the motorcycle forums.

great stuff! very clean and it wont fling off all over the back wheel and it reduces friction.

Yepper, we be using the same Dupont multi. I've been using it for a few years and am very happy with it.

Uhhhh, shaft people are out riding while chain people are messing with their chains? Wrong old Oreo breath, 15 minutes every 6k miles is probably less time than you spend polishing your pumpkin.

Earl

[Nessism]

That spray teflon stuff is basically useless are far as chain lubrication goes. It will keep the squeaking down, but that's about it. Funny how some guys insist on running overpriced Amsoil oil in their engine but use garage door spray on their chains. Fortunately for you chain guys, chains and sprockets are so good these days that a little spritz of something seems to do the trick.

[Ola]

Shaft riders have a different chain to worry about.



*click click click* dear gods please let my spline gears last another season

[schlyme]

my first chain lasted me about 15000 mile and that was neglecting it . the new chain i clean, lub n tension it religiously and minimal wear for 5000 miles. i use diesel fuel to clean it. soak a rag and wipe it down. i know this next time it will have to be chain n sprockets change.

[earlfor]

That spray teflon stuff is basically useless are far as chain lubrication goes. It will keep the squeaking down, but that's about it. Funny how some guys insist on running overpriced Amsoil oil in their engine but use garage door spray on their chains. Fortunately for you chain guys, chains and sprockets are so good these days that a little spritz of something seems to do the trick.

There is no reason to grease, oil or otherwise lube any of the metal parts of an "O" ring chain. The side plates do not rub because they are separated by "O" rings. The pins are lubed at the factory and sealed, so they can not be lubed anyhow. The chain rollers roll, hence the name "roller chain". The only points of an "O" ring chain to be concerned with are the pliability of the rubber "O" rings and surface rust on the sideplates. If the "O" rings dry out, the sealed in grease on the pins is lost. The Dupont teflon multi purpose product is a rubber lubricant and rust inhibitor, which is EXACTLY what IS needed for an "O" ring chain. Anything that is sticky will retain grit/sand and that will destroy the "O" rings. That is why thick, sticky chain lube is undesirable and this is much better.


Earl

[bwringer]

Yepper, we be using the same Dupont multi. I've been using it for a few years and am very happy with it.

Uhhhh, shaft people are out riding while chain people are messing with their chains? Wrong old Oreo breath, 15 minutes every 6k miles is probably less time than you spend polishing your pumpkin.

Earl

I keep a can of the DuPont stuff in my garage in case any of you chainies drop in. $5 or so at Lowe's.

It's pretty interesting stuff -- it goes on very thin, which will help wash away a moderate amount of grime, then becomes a dry wax a few minutes later.

Smells nice, too.

And yeah, it's great on my garage door and lots of other pivoting sliding stuff.

No good for cables -- it's too thick.

[earlfor]

I keep a can of the DuPont stuff in my garage in case any of you chainies drop in. $5 or so at Lowe's.

It's pretty interesting stuff -- it goes on very thin, which will help wash away a moderate amount of grime, then becomes a dry wax a few minutes later.

Smells nice, too.

And yeah, it's great on my garage door and lots of other pivoting sliding stuff.

No good for cables -- it's too thick.

Instead of kerosene, I use it as a "pressure flush" to clean the chain. Blow out any grit, let the excess drip onto a piece of cardboard under the bike and wipe down lightly when done flushing. Then a light coat and let sit for about ten minutes. I only "flush" the chain maybe every 6 weeks or so, rest of the time, its a light wipe and spray. 25 to 30K miles on a chain/sprocket set and cant remember the last time I had a sticking link.

Earl