Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Chain Life

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Originally posted by earlfor View Post
    There is no reason to grease, oil or otherwise lube any of the metal parts of an "O" ring chain. The side plates do not rub because they are separated by "O" rings. The pins are lubed at the factory and sealed, so they can not be lubed anyhow. The chain rollers roll, hence the name "roller chain". The only points of an "O" ring chain to be concerned with are the pliability of the rubber "O" rings and surface rust on the sideplates. If the "O" rings dry out, the sealed in grease on the pins is lost. The Dupont teflon multi purpose product is a rubber lubricant and rust inhibitor, which is EXACTLY what IS needed for an "O" ring chain. Anything that is sticky will retain grit/sand and that will destroy the "O" rings. That is why thick, sticky chain lube is undesirable and this is much better.


    Earl
    A high pressure lube is ideal for chains. The sprockets and rollers wear away due to high pressure contact between the two. There are chain "waxes" that some people like because they are dry film lube, but I prefer to use something like PJ1 Blue spray lube. That teflon lube some of you guys use may be thick but I doubt it has the high pressure constituents like a real chain lube plus it will fly off. At any rate, chain maintenance is like oil threads - many people have differences of opinion. Needless to say, I'm right and everyone opposed to my point of view is wrong. Have a good day.
    Last edited by Nessism; 03-26-2009, 10:47 PM.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      A high pressure lube is ideal for chains. The sprockets and rollers wear away due to high pressure contact between the two. There are chain "waxes" that some people like because they are dry film lube, but I prefer to use something like PJ1 Blue spray lube. That teflon lube some of you guys use may be thick but I doubt it has the high pressure constituents like a real chain lube. At any rate, chain maintenance is like oil threads - many people have differences of opinion. Needless to say, I'm right and everyone opposed to my point of view is wrong. Have a good day.


      I have seen sprocket teeth worn away and I've seen chains stretched, but I have never seen a roller worn through, even on chains that have worn sprocket teeth down to nearly nothing.
      Needless to say, I'm right and everyone opposed to my point of view is wrong. Have a good day.

      Earl
      Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

      I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

      Comment


        #33
        You'd need quite a bit of oil pressure to keep the roller away from the sprocket, such as happens inside our engines. And I don't think the roller rolls much on the sprocket, it's the pin that rolls inside it.

        I spray mostly on the plates to the lube in between and on top of the rings. The overspray covers the rollers so they get lubed regardless.

        All I know is clip-style master links and not cleaning chains results in this:



        The PO said he lubed the chain regularly. I was surprised when the rather cool jet black chain turned out to be shiny metal under years of grime.

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by focus frenzy View Post
          shafties rule!!! so much simpler and easier to maintain, you are out riding while the chain gang is slaving away messing with chains! LOL


          I don't know if it is the same stuff as you are using Earl, but I have switched to using Dupont "Teflon multi-use dry wax lubricant" I got from Lowe's. it is the hot new thing and is sweeping like wild fire on the motorcycle forums.

          great stuff! very clean and it wont fling off all over the back wheel and it reduces friction.
          + 1 on both these points.

          My Yamaha had the original chain on it and after 15K it was done. Over 4 inches longer than the new chain. I got an inexpensive 0 ring chain and new gears for it because, hey , it's not a race bike.

          I use the chain wax spray and the chain stays grime free. Also does not fling it all around like the oil. It goes on white so when you no longer see the wax it's time to reapply. I don't know how long it will last but I have 1200 miles on it so far and no adjustments yet.
          1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
          1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

          Comment


            #35
            I am of two minds when it comes to chains
            I used straight chain (non-oring) for years, kept them lubed and got lots of miles out of them.
            I use o-ring chain now and keep it lubed and get lots of distance out of it.
            I use Maxima chain wax on my chain about every third tank of fuel. Clean the collected crud off at each oil change.
            I also set the chain play at the beginning of the season when I service the bike usually in the range of 1.5 to 2 inches of play (overly tight will kill a chain faster than rain). I check the tension everytime I lube it but have not had to adjust a chain more than every second oil change.
            A chain set to 1.5" of play will 'wear in' and find its happy place for me it is usually in the 2" play range. At this point just keep it lubed and clean BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN IT BACK UP TO 1.5" OF PLAY that will cause it to wear back to that point where it is happy all over again.
            Then as you keep tightening it up to 1.5" and it keeps wearing out to the perfect place it gets longer and longer and the rollers wear away at the sprockets. It is a viscious cycle which you can break
            BY NOT KEEPING IT TIGHTENED UP TO 1.5" OF PLAY

            Comment


              #36
              I got some of that stuff with beef additives in that McDonald's use on their fries... Works like S**t but it smells nice
              Have some issues with Dog's chasing me down the st though....

              I use the PJ1 for O ring chains. No idea on lifespan but there's no way I'm cleaning it every week, my time is worth more than that

              Dan
              1980 GS1000G - Sold
              1978 GS1000E - Finished!
              1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
              1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
              2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
              1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
              2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

              www.parasiticsanalytics.com

              TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

              Comment


                #37
                I bought my GS1000E new in 80. In 81, I was on my way to Florida and realized I forgot my chainlube. I stopped in Lexington KY at an automotive store to see what they had. They had something new: Tri-flon. It smelled like bananas, but worked great. I got 44,000 miles out of that first chain. At replacement, it was out to the max wear line on adjustment and needed lubed often, but never gave out on me.

                Comment

                Working...
                X