For some reason people are squeamish about making their own brake lines, but mostly I think it's the people that haven't tried. Once you build your first line you will be wondering why you were hesitant. One of the nice things about building your own is that the length can be customized for people running low bars. Something to consider.
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How to buy steel braided brake lines
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35647
- Torrance, CA
A complete set of Earl's lines, front and back, can be made for about $100. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=114521
For some reason people are squeamish about making their own brake lines, but mostly I think it's the people that haven't tried. Once you build your first line you will be wondering why you were hesitant. One of the nice things about building your own is that the length can be customized for people running low bars. Something to consider.Ed
To measure is to know.
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Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
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Smokinapankake
Good point, Ed. The kit from HEL only consists of the front lines, but if a full kit can be had (or made, rather) using Earls, o bviously that would be a better value.
Watching the video, and seeing what they did to clean out the inside of the tube, how did you address that problem?
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35647
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by Smokinapankake View PostGood point, Ed. The kit from HEL only consists of the front lines, but if a full kit can be had (or made, rather) using Earls, obviously that would be a better value.
Watching the video, and seeing what they did to clean out the inside of the tube, how did you address that problem?
The trickiest part of attaching the Earl’s hose end is getting the brass olive over the inner Teflon tube and under the stainless sheath. The olive needs to be push on all the way until it bottom out on the tube - a close visual inspection is required before you call it good. After this it's a simple matter of tightening up the nut.Last edited by Nessism; 03-31-2009, 06:22 PM.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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iDodgimus
i've been thinking about this one too... after many a non-starter (of mind-changing), i finally figured out that it's time to actually DO something and this is a definite...
so is it simply a case of measuring the length of lines and buying the correct connectors/adapters?
Can someone give a brief explanation of the different kinds of connectors/adapters and where/why they'd be used? I've a GS650EX, double front calipers.
Silly question - are these mods done on the rear too?
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BV1
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Forum SageCharter Member
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 3869
- The Gulf Coast of south Florida in the winter and northern Nevada in the summer
Me!
Originally posted by 81ZUKI75 View PostI called Paragon for my 750EX. They list the E and L models as the same and they're not... DUH. Top hose was a little long but worked okay. The bottom two front and rear were fine. If your specific model is not listed they'll make it with a pattern.
http://www.paragonperformance.com/Suzuki%20GS1100.html
My 750T only has a single front so I used a string to measure the overall length following the original routing. I then reduced the length to allow for the end fittings.. ordered the line, one straight, and one angled fitting by Goodridge. Easy.
Good luck!
They are very good lines but I'm going to use HEL on the 1100.1980 GS1100E....Number 15!
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