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Is the shock stud removeable?

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    #1

    Is the shock stud removeable?

    My shock stud is still holding on, but the last 8 or 9 threads out of 18 or so are just gone. I'm afraid to get a new tire becouse I know the shock has to come loose to change it. I took some careful measures of the other side so I could work on finding some sort of replacement. It looked remarkably like it must be threaded into the frame. I didn't want to clamp any vice grips onto mine, but if anyone has a parts bike that they could try to get one off let me know. If it comes off I'd like to buy it. Mine is an 82 GS850 GLZ Im thinking any GL 750 or larger would be a good match.
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    #2
    On my GS850GN, they are welded onto the frame. It's just a long bolt, and it's welded onto the inside of the frame. You won't get it out with vice grips.
    I had the same problem, so I just cut them off, drilled a new 9 mm hole through the remains, cut some new 10 mm thread, put a 10 mm stainless steel bolt in and welded it to the frame, just like the original.

    I did this to all the shock studs, except for the one on the shaft housing. Wasn't sure if I could cut new thread into the aluminum.

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      #3
      Yea. I was afraid of that.

      I was woried that might be the case. I hate to start drilling myself on the thing. It probably wont be safe any more after hack it up. + the shock rests on an un threaded 11mm shaft part. The thereads start up after that.

      Did you leave the shaft on, and just cut off the threaded part?

      I would still like someone with a parts bike to give it a shot. Whats it going to hurt. If the vice grip doesn't get it loose Im sure it won't mess things up enough so the shock wont fit any more.

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        #4
        Oh jeez.

        Well I got ahold of the old dealer I used to deal with in Baltimore. He looked it up and said it does come out and is a part called the torque link. He said it costs $3.00 and I should call the suzuki dealer in the next town to order it. I called the suzuki dealer, and he said nope its a welded part of the frame.

        I know the dealer in Baltimore has a diagram computer that he looked it up on so im sure he wasn't making stuff up. Maybee I'll call him back and get him to give me that part #.

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          #5
          We'll he was wrong.

          Just called him back. He said he was mistaken. It wasn't the shok he was looking at. The stud is defenitely welded on.

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            #6
            This is how I did it:



            I cut the stud off as close to the frame as possible. Welded the head of the bolt onto the frame on two spots, just to make sure that it can't get loose.
            If you can't do it yourself, I'm sure that any (car?) mechanic can. It took me about 30 minutes per bolt.

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              #7
              Originally posted by jojo
              This is how I did it:



              I cut the stud off as close to the frame as possible. Welded the head of the bolt onto the frame on two spots, just to make sure that it can't get loose.
              If you can't do it yourself, I'm sure that any (car?) mechanic can. It took me about 30 minutes per bolt.
              Damn your good Harry
              Wrench.

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                #8
                Yea. pretty much what I was thinking.

                I want to go to one of those places that sell all sorts of nuts and bolts. I figure the over all lenth should be 76mm. The uthreaded part should be 12mm wide and 55mm long the rest 21 mm should be the threaded part.

                Im also wondering if any other bikes have threaded shock studs that I can tap in. I know Harleys do, but I dont think they have 12mm shanks, and metric threads.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Shock stud

                  Chris - let the fastener store come to you! Go to www.mcmaster.com and look up hex head bolts - I think you should stick with a grade 10.8 or 12.9 strength bolt for a shock stud. They have a formula on the webpage for the threaded part of the bolt length - I think it's 2.5 times the diameter of the bolt? Find a 12mm by 1.75 pitch bolt that is long enough to give you the shoulder length you want and you can always trim down the threaded part. Jojo's idea of having tack welds on the head is a good one particularly if you are not threading the bolt into the frame. It will take some careful work but you can do it...

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                    #10
                    If they make one that has ridges....

                    If they make one that has ridges on the first 20 or 30 mm I could pound it in like a car lug stud. I'd buy a couple dozen if I could find somthing like that.

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                      #11
                      Forgot to tell, that I used bolts with full thread. These are easier to find and you can thread them through the frame. No problems with the shocks.
                      The idea of threading the bolts in from the outside never occured to me; might have been a good idea too 8O

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                        #12
                        Chris - You could use a wheel stud. GM late model trucks (a 98 Chevy Blazer S10 for one) use a 12mm by 1.50 pitch thread wheel stud. The problem is you will need to find an extra length stud to get one long enough to work as a shock stud. If you have an off road or high performance 4 x 4 truck shop nearby, see if they stock extra long wheel studs. Some race series require them so you might get lucky here.

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                          #13
                          I used a 12mm bolt.

                          I used a 12mm bolt with no threads on the first 60mm. This left me with the threads starting at the same place as before. The only dif is its a straight 12mm bolt. I will have to order another one with a shoulder to let me put my 10X1.25 nut back on. But for now its on and solid.

                          It looks like I cut a metal table in half with all the metal on my floor, but hey. Atleast I'm back in buisiness.

                          If any one wants to drill a 12mm bolt hole use an 11/32 bit. It fit so tight I had to tap it in the whole way.

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