Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Late model r/r unit
Collapse
X
-
Billy Ricks
-
BassCliff
Originally posted by Billy Ricks View PostWon't hooking the sense wire up to the battery keep the r/r on even with the key off?
Thank you for your induglence,
BassCliff
Comment
-
What's with all this sense wire talk, that CBR R/R doesn't use one.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
Comment
-
My 850's are both '80s. I do have an '82 1100. Its probably like yours. I thought it was maybe some kind of a hot tip to keep them from overheating or something. Have a couple '80 1000G's and an '81 1000G as well. I'm going to install the Duaneage Honda units on them all when I get home next month. Hopefully, that will help keep me from needing stators.
Originally posted by rustybronco View Post
from the factory, the R/R is mounted to the bottom of the battery tray on my '80 and '82 gs850g. what year is yours?sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things
Comment
-
BassCliff
Originally posted by Nessism View PostWhat's with all this sense wire talk, that CBR R/R doesn't use one.
That's correct Ed. My current r/r unit does not have a sense wire. But I do have a couple of duaneage's units in the garage for spares. I'm going to order up a spare stator too, just in case.
I hope I have some time to spend in the garage tonight. I'm itching to see what my fusebox looks like on the back side.
Thank you for your induglence,
BassCliffLast edited by Guest; 04-07-2009, 04:05 PM.
Comment
-
GQROD
Yes my sense wire was on the correct wire not the one for the brake light rather the tail light my error in explaining.
Yes it does drain milliamps of voltage i have a 10 amp fuse on it andi keep the tender on it if i'm not running the bike more than couple of days.
I was going to put a relay on it but i was concerned with electrical field inducing current into the R/R when the field collapses upon shut off, there is a relay plug with a diode to prevent this but i have not tried it yet.
I'd rather keep the tender on it and drain a few milliamps than risk damaging the battery, anyone have a better place to hook the sense wire to?
I think others have tied it into the oil pressure switch wire i may try that and see.
Thanks for the clarification on the problem you had with the stator BassCliff always appreciatedLast edited by Guest; 04-07-2009, 04:39 PM.
Comment
-
BassCliff
Cooking with electrons!
Hello friends,
I finally got around to cleaning up my fuse box. It didn't look as bad as I thought it might, but I did clean all of the contacts inside.
Here's my fusebox. Above it and to the right you see the relay for my coil relay mod.
Remove the two screws to either side, pop off the top cover and this is what you see.
Pop off the back cover and this is what you see:
From here you can start dissassembly, The contacts just snap out.
Scrub them with your favorite wire brush and spray them with your favorite contact cleaner.
A few more pictures in the next post...Last edited by Guest; 04-11-2009, 03:26 AM.
Comment
-
BassCliff
Cooking with electrons
Hello again,
The main positive input has a little different contact arrangement. Take out the screw and the contacts pop out for cleaning.
After you get everything clean, just reassemble and reinstall. Don't forget to scrub that ground strap on the right side in the picture below.
I checked my voltage loss between the r/r output and the (+)battery terminal. Last weekend when Mr. posplayer checked it while we were riding around Julian he found about .6v-.8v loss. After this cleanup I measured .3v loss. Jim says that ideally you want a loss of only .25v or less. It's not perfect, but it's better.
Next is the ignition switch.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffLast edited by Guest; 04-11-2009, 02:51 AM.
Comment
-
GQROD
Great pics, do you think applying electrical contact grease would help the conductivity to get to that .25v and prevent future corrosion or would it make a mess?
Comment
-
Cliff
Cliff,
Here is what I did on my old style fusebox. Picture was taken when not on Macro setting, so somewhat out of focus, but I bent up the crimps and used some acid (Navel jelly will work) and got the crimp chemically clean. This allowed me to flow solder into the joints to hopefully impede any further encroachment of corrosion into the crimp. Top it off with a nice lathering of Dielectric grease. This is my 81GS750EX as the GS1100ED has a different style fuse box without crimps.
If you measured 0.3V at 4000 RPM that will be fine. However, if those crimps are the source of the resistance (my experience that is generally the issue), then the corrosion will keep growing and you could continue to degrade in short order.
Jim
Comment
-
BassCliff
Thanks Jim. I'll revisit my fusebox soon. I didn't solder the crimps. I will next time I'm in there. I'll have to pick up some more dielectric grease.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Comment
Comment