Checking my brakes turned into an overhaul (many Qs be in here)

[iDodgimus]

First off - a big thanks to BassCliff for the write-ups on changing the brake pads and the brake light switch, I would never have had thought it was so simple

Onto the questions:

Rear Brakes
I had a tough time getting the pads out of the caliper, turns out that there were no shims in there at all and the brake pad was stuck to the caliper with rust!

- What damage might have occured and how can i check for and resolve any issues? Or should I just clean the calipers with brake cleaner?
- Are replacement shims available with new pads?

The pads seemed a little crumbly too, there was plenty thickness to them but they were quite grooved, and the rotor also is grooved, not deep but enough to see and feel.
- should i get it turned or replaced or is it ok?

pics for reference
rusty pads, you can see where the pistons were stuck to it


and a look in the caliper


crumbly, groovy brake pads


grooved rotor



Front Brakes
Again, no shims or spacer pad - just the brake pads themselves... are replacement shims and spacers available or should i not worry?

Do brake pads have to be replaced in pairs?
Should I replace both front calipers together?

Brake Switch
It's garbage and one of the screws snapped off while still in the lever/MC housing - guess its time to get a hydraulic one, which i guess will go nicely with the braided steel lines i'm planning on making/installing (guess i'm gonna rush the order through sooner than i thought)...
- When/why would I replace the master cylinder? Is it something I should consider while giving the brakes this overhaul?
- What about the rear (MC and lines) ?

Once this is done that'll be the brakes and oil/filter checked off the list of 'things to learn how to do' - I'm on my way to knowing how to care for my GS myself!

Thanks again, and in advance, for all the help in making me a more knowledge, skilled and responsible owner.

[BassCliff]

Hi Mr. iDodgimus,

I would recommend getting new pads, new pad shims, and caliper rebuild kits. Take those calipers apart and check those brake pistons for wear, rust, pitting, or any other irregularities and replace if necessary. Replace all 4 front pads as a set. Replace both rear pads as a set. Play it safe, err to the side of caution. Stopping is good.

The rotors have a minimum service thickness, check your manual. If they are scored up a little bit, that's OK. It just means that you'll have to keep a closer eye on your pads and replace them more often until the rotor has run out of useful life.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[iDodgimus]

you provided the blazingly fast response i was hoping for Mr BassCliff

i'm assuming that all of these items will be available from my local dealer? Are there any recommended parts/kits/brands/retailers i should consider?

...and the guide is already on your page, amazing

oh well, guess i wont be riding for a little while, but when i do i'll be able to ride for a long while.

Any thoughts on the MC?

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I use regular EBC ceramic composite pads and caliper rebuild kits. I've always ordered online and rarely buy parts from a dealership. The last time I was at a dealership they wanted $9 for a $2 gasket.

I can't really comment on your master cylinders, haven't seen them. Usually they just need a good cleaning and rebuild. There are very small passages in there. Be sure they are clean or you could suffer from brake seizure.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Nessism]

Listen to Cliff. He is a wise man. When rebuilding the system don't forget to change those old mushy brake lines. The factory service manual calls for changing them every two years. Needless to say every two years is silly but clearly 27 years is time.

[spyug]

As Nessim suggests, you should change out the stock lines as well. They could break down and start leaking or worse blow out with a firm pull someday.

If you do change them, make the upgrade to braided stainless steel/kevlar lined. More expensive than stock but way way better. Unlike stock lines the ss lines do not deform under pressure so the brake feel is firmer and easier. With them you can easily make 2 finger emergency stops.

You can lessen the price a bit if you make them yourself and there is a tutorial some where around here.Otherwise I think you can order them ready made from most on line retailers and or some of the specialty brake type shops.

You might be abit put off by the price but i'd urge you to think seriously about the upgrade as BC says you want to have the best brakes available to you for the one time you may really need to stop quickly.

Let us know what you find and what you end up doing.

Cheers,
Spyug

[duaneage]

Use a small amount of caliper grease on the slides to make sure the caliper returns properly. Scuff the rotors with 100 grit sandpaper to help seat the new pads faster. Do one wheel at a time and check the brakes before doing the second. This way you know you have a good brake to rely on. Replace the bleeder valves, they are cheap yet important. There are speed bleeders that have a valve inside making it easier to bleed. At 7 dollars each they are not so cheap but do make brake bleeding easier

[iDodgimus]

I appreciate all the words of wisdom and support.

I'm thinking that the rear caliper needs the most work as the pads were rusted to the pistons, the fronts seemed fine but were missing the shims - i'll be sure to service them all as per the guide on BassCliff's webpage, noting any irregularities or issues and buy the appropriate parts/kits to rebuilt or replace. I'll for sure be posting pics and questions as i go.

I'd already planned on upgrading to SS lines (making them as per Nessism's detailed post) but I guess this just hurries that process - I'll get the order in to the plumbing store this weekend. There'll be a hydraulic brake switch in there too.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for cleaning or replacing the master cylinders? May as well take care of the entire braking system while I'm in there...

The overhaul will be interwebbed!

[iDodgimus]

started the fix-up

... sorry no pics for todays work, forgot the camera

So i managed to carefully put the front brakes back together before i journeyed carefully to my mates shop - turns out he has all the tools, tubes, greases and other goodies to make things go a little smoother.

Rear caliper was removed and disassembled. The seals didnt look very good so tomorrow i'll be buying some new ones, everything else cleaned up great tho.

The front calipers also came off without issue but I only got to service one of them (the other tomorrow). Behind the piston was some pretty nasty gunk but it cleaned up real nice.

The brake fluid in both front and rear was pretty damn dirty so its a good thing i'm doing this now..

I was pleasantly surprised at how easy the service was, everything came off without issue and an air compressor attachement to bleed/empty the lines made for a clean job.

Tomorrow is the other caliper, cleaning the MC and putting it all back together... Also on the cards is installing my progressive suspension (front and back) and replacing the dented exhaust pipe. I'll make sure there's pictures and posts

[Nessism]

Good job on doing the repair properly. Don't forget to check the caliper pistons for pitting and replace if you find any.

Keep going...