20 amp main fuse?

[Anonymous]

I'd like a survey of anyone that uses a 20 amp main fuse, and maybe the reason it's used and any problems it may have caused.

[saaz]

I would not use a 20 amp fuse because it does not need it, and the wiring would fry before the fuse gave out (assuming the other fuses did not blow first). If you use a fuse heavier than the wiring there can be potential problems in the bikes wiring, ie smoking, melting, anguish etc etc!!!

[Anonymous]

saaz is right. Don't use a fuse that is rated at a higher current than what Suzuki reccomends. Remember that the fuse is there to protect against over current. It should fail before the wiring. If it keeps blowing you have a problem and need to investigate.

Something to keep in mind is that a fuse is a 'thermal' device. It will blow with a lower current in a higher ambient temperature. For instance, at 50 degrees it will carry more current than at 95 degrees before fusing. This is not to say we should put in different fuses at different temperatures. I'm trying to illustrate a point. That is - make sure the connections to the fuse are clean - dirty connections cause resistances with can create hot spots. Make sure that the fuse is vented adequately and is not near an engine component that is radiating heat.

If both of the above are good - and the fuse is still blowing - you need to find out why. A circuit in line with the fuse is then drawing too much current.

[Anonymous]

20 amp main fuse?

I'm aware of all of the dangers but I'm hoping there may be a safety factor built in to the wire sizes.
I've checked and rechecked but since it's an intermittent problem I can't put my finger on it. It only happens when I'm out riding and about every few thousand miles. I'm now waiting on some "slo-blo" time delay 15 amp fuses at the auto parts shop and hope it may ease the problem.
The wife is gun shy now because the last time it happened was on a dark lonely country road.
I was asking to see who may have been using 20 amp fuses without a problem to verify the existance of a safety factor in the wires.
The headlight is on a relay and separate fuse. The ignition switch has been by-passed with a relay,the R/R is new and checks out well as does the alternator. All wires have been inspected several times and taped where even slightly suspicious. The fuse holders have been cleaned and the fuses replaced with new ones.
Does anyone have an idea of an intermittant that could be my problem?
At this point I doubt auto style fuses would be any better.

[kz]

Have you meassured the the current during normal operation?

If the current is OK (below 15 amps) during normal operation you probably have a wire or connection that is located very close to ground and as you drive over a bump or simular you can get a short to ground that blows the fuse.

If the current during normal operation is approx. 18 amps or so, you have to heavy load and the fuse blows always after a certain time.

I would check every "non stock" electrical parts/wires first.