Seafoam

[Clone]

I use half a can in two successive tanks of fuel in the spring. And then a healthy dose of stabil in the tank before it gets parked for the winter.
I have had this bike since '97 and haven't had to clean the carbs yet. all the circuits work.
If you use it regularly to clean out the carbs it works well. Seafoam is about the only one that I would recommend using.
If your carbs are already getting gummed up, or are gummed up I would mix it really strong, 3/4 of a can for a few tanks, and run the bike through the tank (roadtrip). It is a great product for cleaning up the carbs.
But let me tell you IT WILL SMOKE but don't worry it will stop after the first tank without any product in it.

[willie]

[QUOTE=850 Combat;989744]
In my personal experience, if its rideable without the choke, and it hits on all four at idle, a couple of tanks of gas will go along way toward making it run OK. If one or more cylinders will pull on top but not idle, I have never had any product fix that. [QUOTE]

Yeah, a couple of tanks of gas probably would have cleared things up but it sure takes awhile to run through a couple of tanks when it'll only run on the choke and even with the choke it won't rev above a couple grand. The SF treatment cost me less than $5 and 15 minutes.
Hadn't thought about using it on my stator. Maybe I should've before I replaced it.
Willie in TN

[chuckycheese]

Stabilizer

I think it probably works as a stabilizer. Whether or not it's helpful for anything else, I simply admit not to know.

[FunRide]

Seafoam but add inline filter

I added seafoam on my bike after I purchased it. Was working but after a few fill ups it was starting to idle rough. After a lot of work and brainstorming I realized that the seafoam dislodged some contaminants from the tank and clogged up the carb. Cleaned the tank and carbs by blowing high pressure into the carb low idle line. Now it works like a charm. Now I have an inline fuel filter, no problem what so ever except my side cover does not close properly. i will need to reroute the filter somewhere else to properly close the side cover. I do no want to lose the side cover since it is original and in decent shape.

[Dave R]

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Originally Posted by Nessism
Using Seafoam to clean old carbs is a stop gap measure at best; even if Seafoam makes the bike run better, all the old O-rings are hard and brittle and will not continue to seal properly for very much longer. Doing a proper rebuild by changing out the O-rings is the proper solution for restoring old carbs.
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Excuse the dumb question...

When you guys are talking about carb problems from old "o-rings", are you talking about the ones internally in the carb, or the manifold sealing o-rings?

I understand my 1100E doesn't have the manifold o-rings... what are the symptoms you will experience when the "internal" o-rings are deteriorating?

Thanks. Didn't mean to divert thread.

[Steve]

Excuse the dumb question...

When you guys are talking about carb problems from old "o-rings", are you talking about the ones internally in the carb, or the manifold sealing o-rings?

I understand my 1100E doesn't have the manifold o-rings... what are the symptoms you will experience when the "internal" o-rings are deteriorating?

Actually, it's kinda hard to find a "dumb" question, but "smart" answers are a dime a dozen.

Both sets of o-rings can cause problems. If the internal o-rings are leaking because they are cracked, the symptoms will vary based on which o-ring is causing the problems. Leaky o-rings at the inlet needle valve (float valve) will allow gas to bypass the valve and overflow the float bowl if the petcock does not fully shut off. Leaky o-rings around the enrichener valve ("choke") will lean out the 'choke' mixture, possilble making it harder to start. Leaky o-rings around the idle mixture adjust screw will wreak havoc with your idle mix settings, usually leaning it out. The other set of o-rings that will come in the kit from cycleorings.com will be for the fuel transfer tubes between the carbs. If they leak, they just drop raw gas on the back of the hot engine.

If your engine had the manifold o-rings, they would likely leak enough to lean out the mixture just before it goes into the engine, causing idle problems and overheating problems. You don't have those o-rings, but you should still make sure that your manifold tubes are pliable enough to seal well. Old tubes will harden and shrink, making it very hard to get them on and off, if necessary.

.

[kerrfunk]

Okay, let's venture out of the world of two-wheelers.

My wife drives a 2000 Toyota Corolla. It has about 123,000 miles on it, and she commutes 35 miles a day (RT), plus we tend to take long trips in it cuz it gets better mileage than my 99 CR-V.

For the last few months slash maybe a year we've been adding oil to the Corolla... to the point where we add a quart or more a week.

There's no quart of oil beneath the car, and my wife researched it, found that its a common problem with that era of Corollas... consuming and burning oil. Sludge builds up.

As she was describing her research to me, all I could think of was SeaFoam.


So whaddya think? Would it hurt to toss half a can of SF into the gastank? Woudl it hurt to toss half a can into the oil? Could it possibly help? Or is it time to go shopping for a replacement cage?

[ryonker]

I use sf in my cars a lot. I think its a great idea. Cleans out the system for smoother operation (fuel injectors, etc.)

Just do it!

Rick

[seuadr]

So whaddya think? Would it hurt to toss half a can of SF into the gastank? Woudl it hurt to toss half a can into the oil? Could it possibly help? Or is it time to go shopping for a replacement cage?

seafoam is alot cheaper than another car. i would try it first.

i've used seafoam in several of my cars, never had any issues. seemed to helpe mpg and such, just like most good fuel injection cleaners. definitally try it first.

[Killer2600]

Hadn't thought about using it on my stator. Maybe I should've before I replaced it.
Willie in TN

Seafoam brought a dead battery back to life for me, just popped the cap and poured some in...good as new


For those that can't tell I'm being sarcastic, I don't recommend seafoam in your battery.

[Nessism]

Okay, let's venture out of the world of two-wheelers.

My wife drives a 2000 Toyota Corolla. It has about 123,000 miles on it, and she commutes 35 miles a day (RT), plus we tend to take long trips in it cuz it gets better mileage than my 99 CR-V.

For the last few months slash maybe a year we've been adding oil to the Corolla... to the point where we add a quart or more a week.

There's no quart of oil beneath the car, and my wife researched it, found that its a common problem with that era of Corollas... consuming and burning oil. Sludge builds up.

As she was describing her research to me, all I could think of was SeaFoam.


So whaddya think? Would it hurt to toss half a can of SF into the gastank? Woudl it hurt to toss half a can into the oil? Could it possibly help? Or is it time to go shopping for a replacement cage?

125k is not that much for a Toyota, but you best start looking for a new car.

[Billy Ricks]

Okay, let's venture out of the world of two-wheelers.

My wife drives a 2000 Toyota Corolla. It has about 123,000 miles on it, and she commutes 35 miles a day (RT), plus we tend to take long trips in it cuz it gets better mileage than my 99 CR-V.

For the last few months slash maybe a year we've been adding oil to the Corolla... to the point where we add a quart or more a week.

There's no quart of oil beneath the car, and my wife researched it, found that its a common problem with that era of Corollas... consuming and burning oil. Sludge builds up.

As she was describing her research to me, all I could think of was SeaFoam.


So whaddya think? Would it hurt to toss half a can of SF into the gastank? Woudl it hurt to toss half a can into the oil? Could it possibly help? Or is it time to go shopping for a replacement cage?

You can use it in the crankcase. It probably won't help unless you have stuck rings and whether it will help that is debatable. It's more than likely valve stem seals. Does it smoke a little when first started? Have you done a compression check?

[tjhenry]

i just replaced my oil, and poured about half the bottle in with the oil, i went on a 35 mile run today

my question though, is it ok to let that stuff run in it for a week (about 100 total with my commute), or do i need to change the oil ASAP?

[BassCliff]

i just replaced my oil, and poured about half the bottle in with the oil, i went on a 35 mile run today

my question though, is it ok to let that stuff run in it for a week (about 100 total with my commute), or do i need to change the oil ASAP?

Hi Mr. tjhenry,

Half a bottle is too much. About 2 oz. should have been plenty.

I seem to recall (I don't know if I read the instructions on the can or if I read it here in the forum) that you can run Seafoam in the crankcase for about 50 miles. Then you must change the oil again.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[imlost]

seafoam use

this stuff is a carbon cleaner, not a carb/injection cleaner, the best use for it is to use ported vacuum to the intake and raise the rpm for a good draw of the mix, this will make the engine smoke like hell as it heats the combustion and softens the carbon-which is partly the smoke. it works great to clean the intake and the exhaust valve stem sides of the valves or valve face, the ads you see for techron and seafoam for improving the fuel economy is because the intake and exhaust valves are clean and flow the intake and exhaust charge easier.the best carb/injector cleaner-without disassembling, is a carb cleaner by name-but this stuff is quite aggressive and should be sprayed right where needed only-so best to take it apart to clean correctly.my .02 on this stuff
Joel