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Had it out for a little ride today, now some idleing questions

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    Had it out for a little ride today, now some idleing questions

    Okay guys...

    Bike seems to idle inconsistently. When I adjust the idle screw, I can tell the difference and it will adjust accordingly, but it is very sensitive. Seems like just a minute twist in one direction sends the idles up above 2k, or the other direction down under 1k. The highest I can get it to sit is right at 1k. Sometimes it will seem like I got it right at about 1100 or 1200 and then either the throttle is sticking or it just doesn't wanna come down after going above 2k rpms.

    So here's my question - should the idle screw be that sensitive? I haven't got to the valve adjust yet, and we will be doing carbtune at the same time. Will that help my idle or do I have a different issue?

    #2
    Do your valve adjust 1st

    Then see what you have going on, carb wise

    Racing idle is the common symptom of air leaks

    Did you clean your carbs per the carb cleaning page?

    New intake boots?

    New intake O rings?

    The idle issue is probably separate from the valve adjust and carb sync, but it all needs to be done.
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

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      #3
      So here's my question - should the idle screw be that sensitive?
      Are you referring to the knob located at the bottom of the carbs to adjust the idle speed? On my bike, when you turn the knob the idle increases or decreases gradually.

      Are you referring to the idle mixture screw on each carburetor? You want to adjust these to the highest idle or use a colortune to adjust.

      Like Big T said, adjust the valves first. Then clean your carbs and replace intake and carb o-rings. Inspect your carb intake boots and airbox boots, replace if cracked or rock hard. Bench sync the carbs and set your idle mixture screws about 2 turns out to start. Once you get the bike started and idleing using the knob, adjust the mixture screws on each carb using either highest idle or colortune. Once you do this, vacuum sync using a carbtune or manometer.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by almarconi View Post
        Are you referring to the knob located at the bottom of the carbs to adjust the idle speed? On my bike, when you turn the knob the idle increases or decreases gradually.
        Yes, referring to what you described. Mine is litterally just a nudge in either direction to get it to react. Probably barely a quarter turn and affects it between 1k and 2.5k rpm's.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Big T View Post
          Do your valve adjust 1st

          Then see what you have going on, carb wise

          Racing idle is the common symptom of air leaks

          Did you clean your carbs per the carb cleaning page?

          New intake boots?

          New intake O rings?

          The idle issue is probably separate from the valve adjust and carb sync, but it all needs to be done.
          Yup, I agree. Do all the basic maintenance before drilling down and worrying about idle issues. Clean carbs with fresh o-rings inside and on the carb boots, valve adjust, carb sync. Do your final tuning after this stuff is all done.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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