Powdercoating questions...

[Guest]

I have my Katana stripped to the frame (mostly) and will be dropping it off at the powdercoaters on Monday - have a couple of questions;

1). How do you remove the steering lock (or should I leave it in)?

2). I can't decide if I should get my swingarm powdercoated while I'm at it. Some doodle painted it black but I could simply strip and refinish it. If I decide to get it powdercoated I presume I'll need to press out the rubber shock mounts? Are these available if I do?

3). I had a Honda frame powdercoated by the same company a year or so ago and the VIN on the steering stem (the stamped one) is barely readable. I'd like the Kat one to be more visible seeing as the decal on the LH side is worn away. Is there a way that powdercoating can be applied thinly in specific areas or will I need to mask it off?

Cheers.

[Matchless]

I have my Katana stripped to the frame (mostly) and will be dropping it off at the powdercoaters on Monday - have a couple of questions;

1). How do you remove the steering lock (or should I leave it in)?

2). I can't decide if I should get my swingarm powdercoated while I'm at it. Some doodle painted it black but I could simply strip and refinish it. If I decide to get it powdercoated I presume I'll need to press out the rubber shock mounts? Are these available if I do?

3). I had a Honda frame powdercoated by the same company a year or so ago and the VIN on the steering stem (the stamped one) is barely readable. I'd like the Kat one to be more visible seeing as the decal on the LH side is worn away. Is there a way that powdercoating can be applied thinly in specific areas or will I need to mask it off?

Cheers.

I would suggest removing everything unless you want a sandblasted and powder coated lock. Not sure how to remove it, but there should be a pin holding it.

The rubbers may survive the hot oven when the powdercoating is baked, but if not it will ruin the finish. So rather remove.

Mask the vin number and then just spray it afterwards. Paint stripper or heat does soften powdercoating, so you can clean the number up afterwards as well.

I would suggest that you mask all the bolt holes, threaded parts and bearing areas yourself. Obviously you know what to expect having had the Honda done before.

[hampshirehog]

Plus one on removing the rubbers from the swinging arm. They should press out ok (couple of sockets and a nut and bolt is my usual trick). If they crumble when you pop them out they'll need replacing anyway (part no. 09319-10008 and about a fiver each over here, still available).

For my twopenn'orth, I'd polish the alloy on the arm up anyway rather than powder coat.

And ditto on the VIN number. You can shift powdercoating with paintstripper but you run the risk of making an untidy job as the stripper will permeate through the powder coat slightly even if you mask off. Better to mask off before powder coating and paint afterwards.

[pontiacstogo]

For my twopenn'orth, I'd polish the alloy on the arm up anyway rather than powder coat.

So I threw a coat of paint stripper on the swingarm and it's actually pretty nice under the black paint. Guess I'll scratch getting it powdercoated. Back to the frame though...

What about the bendy thingies that hold the wiring loom. These look like they have some sort of rubberized coating on them - do these get stripped bare during the blasting process? Once powdercoated will they bend around the harness OK without the powdercoat cracking?

[mighty13d]

So I threw a coat of paint stripper on the swingarm and it's actually pretty nice under the black paint. Guess I'll scratch getting it powdercoated. Back to the frame though...

What about the bendy thingies that hold the wiring loom. These look like they have some sort of rubberized coating on them - do these get stripped bare during the blasting process? Once powdercoated will they bend around the harness OK without the powdercoat cracking?

Ask the guys doing the powdercoating. Then ask them about not getting some on certain areas. I'm sure they can figure something out. I mean, they do it for a living. Talk to them. Usually a little tip or advice is free!

[reddirtrider]

So I threw a coat of paint stripper on the swingarm and it's actually pretty nice under the black paint. Guess I'll scratch getting it powdercoated. Back to the frame though...

What about the bendy thingies that hold the wiring loom. These look like they have some sort of rubberized coating on them - do these get stripped bare during the blasting process? Once powdercoated will they bend around the harness OK without the powdercoat cracking?

Grind them off and use zip ties.

[Zooks]

Forget the powdercoating altogether and go with modern baked enamel from an auto paint shop. Far superior product.

Powdercoating is so yesterday. It chips and peels and moisture gets under it causing rust. Baked enamel is harder to chip and harder for moisture to get under. It's also 100 times easier to touch up later on. Ask any auto spray-painter and they'll tell you which is better.

just my 2c.

[Suzuki_Don]

I had my frame done about a month ago. I just drilled out the rivets that held the aluminium VIN plate to the steering head and riveted it back in place when the frame came back. It would have made a mess to use paint stripper on it to clean it up if I had decided not to remove it.

[jwhelan65]

Had this swingarm Powder coated with the hard rubber bushings in place. I went to the local hardware store and bought some cheap bolts and washers as close to the size of the hole I could find. Ran the bolt through with the washers on both sides to protect the bushings and snugged them up. No issues at all with melting.

Before.....(mounts were not welded in this pic)



After....

[pontiacstogo]

Forget the powdercoating altogether and go with modern baked enamel from an auto paint shop. Far superior product.

Powdercoating is so yesterday. It chips and peels and moisture gets under it causing rust. Baked enamel is harder to chip and harder for moisture to get under. It's also 100 times easier to touch up later on. Ask any auto spray-painter and they'll tell you which is better.

just my 2c.

I remember 'plastic coating' used to be that way. Modern powdercoating doesn't chip easily - in fact it's very durable. The finish is hard to beat;

I had my frame done about a month ago. I just drilled out the rivets that held the aluminium VIN plate to the steering head and riveted it back in place when the frame came back. It would have made a mess to use paint stripper on it to clean it up if I had decided not to remove it.

My question was more about the VIN that's stamped into the steel on the neck. It's the only VIN marking left on my Kat so I want to make sure it's visible. On my Honda frame, the powdercoaters simply masked the VIN tag before coating (see picture above).

[reddirtrider]

Forget the powdercoating altogether and go with modern baked enamel from an auto paint shop. Far superior product.

Powdercoating is so yesterday. It chips and peels and moisture gets under it causing rust. Baked enamel is harder to chip and harder for moisture to get under. It's also 100 times easier to touch up later on. Ask any auto spray-painter and they'll tell you which is better.

just my 2c.

I'd disagree. Take a knife blade to powder coating and enamel and see which one holds up better. As for moisture to get under powder coating - how does that happen to a properly applied surface? It's baked on.

The powder coating on several frames I've done (including a dirt bike) is still looking like new.

Yes, powder coating isn't easy to touch up. You'd better be sure you have everything done (grinding, brackets, etc) before you send it off. Once it's coated it's hard to make mods, you cannot recoat.