PS: MUSTANGFLYR...WHICH connection were you having an issue with? I have a bit of a twitchy wire going to my fuse block that will suddenly kill the bike dead cold once in a blue moon. I havent been able to track which it is yet, perhaps your info could help me out.
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Engine bogging down while cruising
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by MrZig View Post
PS: MUSTANGFLYR...WHICH connection were you having an issue with? I have a bit of a twitchy wire going to my fuse block that will suddenly kill the bike dead cold once in a blue moon. I havent been able to track which it is yet, perhaps your info could help me out.
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MrZig
Here's updated carb specs:
Float height
Stock 22.4mm +/- 1mm
Left 23mm
Right 22mm
Jet Needle P-1 - STOCK: P-1
Needle Clip Center - STOCK: Center
Needle Jet 5D69 - STOCK: 5D69
Main Jet 110 - STOCK: 117.5
Pilot Jet 42.5 - STOCK: 42.5
As you can see, everything is fine except the main jet is 7.5mm smaller. This shouldn't be causing the symptoms I'm having, right? Just WOT.
The carb is completley ripped apart now. All jets and needles were clean, pilot needle included, and no jets were clogged. Passages unknown, I'll spray them down with solvent. I'm pretty sure this might not be a carb problem after all.
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Connector
In reply to TheCafeKld it was the connector between the fuse box and the main harness, to be exact the orange wire with a white tracer. I went ahead and replaced all the terminals (8) and the connector block. Fixed it. As I noted I crimped and soldered them. Again hope it helps.1980 GS1000E
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MrZig
Oh sorry Cafe Kid I didn't see your reply there
I measured from the gasket surface (without the gasket) to the highest point on the float, but not the step up. IE This image explains it perfectly of what I did:
The idle needle/pilot needle has been messed with by me personally. It has a new o-ring, and I believe each one was between 2 and 2.5 turns out. When I took it out an hour ago the tip was perfectly fine. And the pilot jets were also perfectly fine.
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TheCafeKid
Originally posted by mustangflyr View PostIn reply to TheCafeKld it was the connector between the fuse box and the main harness, to be exact the orange wire with a white tracer. I went ahead and replaced all the terminals (8) and the connector block. Fixed it. As I noted I crimped and soldered them. Again hope it helps.
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donimo
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MrZig
I took shop air & good spray solvent to every part of the completely dissasembled carb I could. Everything carb wise is as clean as I can get it.
One thing though, I noiced in the female part of the carb body where the needle jet slides into, there seems to be a small hole in the middle of that, where does it go?
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Forum GuruCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2002
- 8858
- Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
Regarding your earlier post, the gas cap itself has a vent. It can become clogged when years of fumes become a varnishy film. If the venting is compromised, you can get fuel starvation, most noticable at steady speeds.
I mentioned it because it's quick to clean it and re-rest. From what I read it sounds like your float bowl vent lines are clear.
Have you tried testing with the petcock in PRIME position?And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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MrZig
Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View PostRegarding your earlier post, the gas cap itself has a vent. It can become clogged when years of fumes become a varnishy film. If the venting is compromised, you can get fuel starvation, most noticable at steady speeds.
I mentioned it because it's quick to clean it and re-rest. From what I read it sounds like your float bowl vent lines are clear.
Have you tried testing with the petcock in PRIME position?
I also just did the coil relay mod and I'm getting good spark, however I noticed that before the mod I was losing 2 volts. It may make a difference, may not, we'll see.
I'm also getting new main jets which come stock on my type of carbs. The ones on mine are 3 sizes too small, that may make a difference as well.Last edited by Guest; 04-22-2009, 09:05 PM.
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Forum GuruCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2002
- 8858
- Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
OK. Good luck with it.
The mains should be stock anyway. Generally, the smaller mains should only effect 3/4 to full throttle but it's still possible that 3 sizes smaller could have the effect you describe. It's the smallest opening in the circuit that regulates flow. You would think that the space between the jet needle and needle jet would be adequate (at the throttle position your problem is noticable) and uneffected by a smaller than stock main but since the mains should be stock anyway it's worth a try.And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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MrZig
Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View PostOK. Good luck with it.
The mains should be stock anyway. Generally, the smaller mains should only effect 3/4 to full throttle but it's still possible that 3 sizes smaller could have the effect you describe. It's the smallest opening in the circuit that regulates flow. You would think that the space between the jet needle and needle jet would be adequate (at the throttle position your problem is noticable) and uneffected by a smaller than stock main but since the mains should be stock anyway it's worth a try.
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MrZig
Ok I did a coil relay mod giving full battery voltage to the coils, as I was losing at least 2 volts. I also got the new intake boot and sealed it around the airbox with black tape. Everything is aligned good. I plugged the drainage and crankcase breather holes on the airbox, too. Is there anything 'bad' with leaving the crankcase breather open to the atmosphere?
I also cleaned the carbs out, set the pilot needle out two turns, installed new spark boots and fired the bitch up. After warming it up, and lubing the chain, I took it for a real ride and the hesitation/bogging seems to have dissapeared. I used to have a missfire just cruising at 50 KPH and that's gone, and I didn't get much of that major bogging, either. Yay! Only time will tell now
Oh I also noticed that I'm losing oil. When I did my oil change I set it to the high mark on the dipstick, and after two 1 hour rides and some garage-running, the oil level was near the low mark. There are no obvious drips of oil on my carport floor, and it doesn't blow blue smoke or smell of burning oil. I did notice that the end of the crankcase breather hose was oily. could that be the culprit?
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