Crap, Crap, Crap

[ALB80-850]

I've spent most of the day putting the bike back together. Had the carbs off for rebuild, and had new E3's put on Friday. Any way, I get it all ready to fire and the battery is low, so I put the charger on and go do some yard work.After an hour or so, I give her a little choke and she fires up, runs a little and dies. Try to fire her up again and the battery is low again(going to replace it, just wanted to ride tomorrow) Al sorts of gas was coming out of the airbox. Last fall a buddy and I were running it on PRI while syncing the carbs, left it there too. To make a long story a little longer,I filled the crankcase with gas. I did a search, I'm pretty sure the only problem was having the petcock on PRI. I have drained all the gas/oil mix out, and will replace the filter and oil tomorrow. I read "50 miles on cheapo oil and do another oil change" I'm good with that, anything else I may want to do.

Andy

[Dink]

Forehead slap for leaving it on Prime!!

Dink

[jwhelan65]

Sounds like you broke your own rule and solved your on problem.

[Steve]

Obviously, leaving it in PRI did not help it any, but it only brought out the fact that your floats are not shutting of the gas to the carbs as well as they should.

For gas to flood into the crankcase, you need either one of two situations:
1. A double failure. Petcock has to leak (or be left in PRI) and the float valves need to leak, allowing extra gas in bowl.
2. Bad diaphragm in the petcock can leak straight down the vacuum line into intake tract #2, past a partly-open valve, and flood the crankcase.
Check your petcock diaphragm before pulling the carbs apart to check the float valves.

.

[ALB80-850]

update...

Well, time for an update. I got the oil/gas drained and replaced. I took the carbs back off and checked the floats, a couple were a little off, so I reset them to 23mm. I also attempted to bench sync them the best I could. I set the air screws at 2 turns out fron lightly seated. I also checked the petcock, the metal piece with the holes it was in at least 3 pieces and mangled up pretty good. I replaced the entire petcock with another one from a GS650, at least until I can replace it. It seems to be in working order. I tried to run her again without much luck. I do have fuel in the float bowls, I do have spark in all 4, It's only running on 1 & 2. I moved spark plugs around, no change.I was thinking coil, but that doesn't jive with the way it running. It must be a fuel supply problem, but I can't figure out what. The carbs were completely torn down and dipped and blown out with air, they all have stock jets, everything appears to be fine. I a little beyond frustrated at this point. Any ideas? Or anyone close enough to come have a look-see?

Andy

[zblip2]

Up to a certain point, it's great to be able to do the mechanics DIY style. But, speaking for myself, the porpous here is to ride your motorcycle and have fun. Don't forget that.

Diagnostics is the worst part of mechanics work I find. And your case could be a couple of things. By the way, I'm just shouting crap here and trying to help. So here goes:

Electrical: Funny that not one but TWO cylinders don't work. That would mean that two of your carbs are failing severely at the same time even though you cleaned them. How strange... Admitting that this could be an electrical issue, now, where would that lead us? That's right, coils or mabe that thingy spining under the cap on the side of the motor wich times the spark plu.... hey wait, the spark plugs! Have you looked at them or checked the wires lately?

Mechanical: I realy hope this isn't the reason your bike isn,t running cause if it was, this would mean that you lost compression on two cylinders ($$$). Let's not think about this one yet

Fuel System: Are you shure you put back the carbs together allright? I meen I've done it and I can assure you that there's no shame in admitting that after putting it back together you still have pieces left that you knew were supposed to go in there but are still on the table...

My advice would be to keep up the good work. But at some point, if you can't figure out what is the source of the problem, it would be a good idea to modify the strategy and strart looking for a way to minimise the cost of resorting to professional advice. Like eh... hmm.. Or you could just say ''ah the heck with that, there's just so many summers in a life time'' and get your bike in the shop and get an expert opinion...

Reparing stuff by yourself when you can actually see what's broken is great. But when you don't have an idea why the thing isn't running, it could amount to frustations and waisted time... I could be wrong about this, but it's the way I feel. Good luck man!

[zblip2]

By the way, the coolest thing would be for a guy with a running machine to swap his carb with yours to see if your bike runs. It's risk free and it would illiminate the fuel system theory at once. Heck if I lived in the area I'd do it if you paid for beer. But I,m from Canada so too far away

Good luck again!

[ALB80-850]

Thanks for the ideas and info.

I am going to pull the carbs again and re-do 3&4, dip them again and double check everything. The plugs were new last fall and only have about 150 miles on them, and they don't look bad. A new set wouldn't hurt to try. As for compression, it would be hard to get a reading without the bike running. I would do it anyway, and at least get an idea. Can you replace just the wires? Or do you have to replace the coils as well? I'm not sure, it may be firing on 3&4 some, the pipes get warm, but not hot. May be residual heat from 1&2. When I got the bike, #3 didn't fire,then it did, It seem like fuel is most likely the problem or something else is failing slowly. I did get tickeled by the wire on #4 today, so their maybe something there. Well I have a few things to go and check out before it starts to get costly. Thanks for the help. Any other ideas, I'm all ears.

Andy

[Suzuki_Don]

Hi Andy, Are the HT wires on the right plugs. One coil fires 1&4 and the other coil fires 2&3. Is there spark when you hold the plug leads 1/4" from cylinder head earth while cranking the engine. There is an article somewhere on replacing the coil wires, not easy but it can be done.
Sorry if I'm stating the obvious. When I first got my bike the carbs were hanging out of the intake boots, but it was not real obvious to the eye. Honestly it ran like crap. The simple things are the easiest to fix, but the last things we think to check.

[Suzuki_Don]

Andy, if you want that article on relpacing the coil wires send me an email at dclifton@optusnet.com.au and I will get it off to you.

[ALB80-850]

After chasing all sorts of gremlins around, I decided to settle in one thing at a time. I re-dipped the carbs and double checked everything. I was pretty sure the problem was in the adjustment of the carbs and did not have the skill to solve it. Thanks to all who gave input. A buddy of mine came over today and we worked out almost all the bugs. I actually rode about 5 miles today, would have gone more but haven't got a current tag yet. I still need to fine tune the carbs and hook up the carb tune again. I think my bench set was off a little, the bike boggs down at low rpm then smooths out. Also cold blooded, real cold blooded. I think some of these issues will work themselves out with miles. The bike hasn't really ran much in the last couple of years, but it will soon. But it is running and I can ride!

Thanks again for al help.

Andy

[TheCafeKid]

Andy, if your bike is otherwise STOCK, as far as intake and exhaust goes, I would reset your floats to 22.4mm. I know .6mm doesnt SOUND like much, but in the scheme of how that system works, it can be the difference in a smooth bike or one that has a rich soft and boggy flat spot in it one direction or in your case, a dry, surgy lean spot... Just a suggestion...

TCK

[Gravity Tester]

Great Job Keep tweaking!!!!!!

pat

[ALB80-850]

Sounds reasonable to me, I'll give it a try.

Thanks.

Andy