Valve Overlap

[kyscootertrash]

I currently have an 1100E with WebCams 348 lift, 1mm oversize valves, ported head, 1260 kit at about 12 to 1. The cams are degreed in exactly to the manufacturer specs (107.5 intake and 108 degrees exhaust). The problem is, this motor has no bottom. Under a load, below 4000 RPM, anything more than about 1/4 throttle, she just stutters. I am going to advance the intake side about 2 degrees tomorrow. Just how many degrees do I need to advance the intake to actually show a difference?

[posplayr]

Carbs

Sounds like a monster U got there once it is setup.

No expert but the carbs need to get setup and the main jets first.

I would look there before re degreeing the webcams.

Just guessing you need 150-160 mikuni's at least

Pos

Hopefully RapidRay will be along soon

[kyscootertrash]

Carbs

Checked the mixture on a dyno. Spot on at full throttle. Already went up two sizes on the intermediate jet with a Dynojet stage 3 kit. It acts like it just loses vacuum and quits pulling air in. I was thinking of decreasing overlap to try and bring it up at low RPMs.

[posplayr]

Scooter

Not sure I can help much more but to say I have spoken with RapidRay (I debated putting them in my 1100E) about those 0.348's and another guy just recently and they are supposed to be great street strip cams and not anything that I would suspect would fix that issue by changing the degreeing. My 0.340 are set to 105/107 and Bill does his 110/110 basically his is set for high RPM peak hp

I will mention something I screwed up which was getting in a hurry (late nite build) and not hitting the front dot right on (was off by a tooth). Caused a lot of sluggishness and missing missing on my 1168.

Next check the ignition and make sure you have plenty of spark. I did the coil relay mod to insure good voltage to the coils. Powered the Dyna S off the same thing.

Cheff (Bill ) had coil voltage issues with his when he upped the HP and Raypid Ray recently had similar issues that turned into electrical grounds and huge current that an aftermarket ignition took.

Get that stuff squared.

Jim

[chef1366]

What kind of carbs are you running?

[kyscootertrash]

Carbs

Current carbs are 36mm CVs from an 1150.

[chef1366]

How radical of a port job?
I run almost the same set up with a 1166 kit.
Are you running the stock ignition?

[TheCafeKid]

Im headed home to check MY spark charge myself. Perhaps this is part of my richness woes at the moment. One can only hope it would be so easy, but i doubt it....lol

[kyscootertrash]

Port Work

How radical of a port job?
I run almost the same set up with a 1166 kit.
Are you running the stock ignition?

The ports are opened up quite a bit. The ignition is a Dyna 2000. I have a small issue with the Dyna 2000. It retards the timing 30 degrees. Stock is only 20 degrees, which means the timing is 10 degrees off at idle.

[chef1366]

I thought you could set the timing on the 2000.
I run a 150 Mikuni main
47.5 pilot jet
DJ needle on 3.5 from bottom
125 pilot air (non CA carbs came stock with these)
capped all the BS nipples on the carbs for the EPA crap
21.4mm float
Idle screws out 3 turns

Don't run lean and watch all your hard work and money go down the tubes.

[kyscootertrash]

Dyna 2000

You can set what RPM the full advance comes in. You can not set how much advance you get.

[rapidray]

Yes you can! You set the advance with the crank trigger plate! You turn it clockwise to retard the timing & counter-clockwise to advance it. What do you have the timing set at with full advance? You should be at 35 degrees if you have good gas in it & not too much compression. Did you ever read the instructions & operation manual for the Dyna 2000? I ran that system on my last bike & LOVED it! Ray.

[rapidray]

Also, you should have full advance in by 2000 rpm at the LATEST. I like to have all the advance in by 1500. Ray.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Go with Rays advise, The only reason you need to retard the timing is to start the motor

[rapidray]

And the 2000 has a BUILT IN start retard! Ray.