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Hook up fuel line after carbs are on?
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Dre
Hook up fuel line after carbs are on?
I got everything in place and then realized I had not put the fuel line on the carbs yet. Is there any way to get the hose on there without taking the carbs off? Also what is the size, I had one on there tat was a 1/4 inch (sketchy) and got another 1/4 inch to replace and it seems to small. Thanks in advance.Tags: None
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gearhead13
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nisom512
it will fit your new hose is actually 1/4 and the old one was prob swollen never tried this but im sure you can get it on with the tank off and the carbs on the bike it wouldnt be to hard i bet.
Jake
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Ain't learning a b!tch
I had to pull the carbs. That's when I decided to throw the airbox as far as I could.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Dre
I hate that damn air box! any technique to this or advice?
Also just looking and feeling the t where the fuel comes in it appears bigger than a 1/4 inch, do my eyes deceive me?
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1/4" hose is really tight on the fuel nipple. With the carbs in place, I'm betting it will be nearly impossible to get it on there.
I use 9/32" fuel hose. I know that the extra 1/32" doesn't sound like much, but it makes removal and installation MUCH easier, yet still holds tightly. It must be closer to the metric tubing size originally used on these bikes.GS450E GS650E GS700ES GS1000E GS1000G GS1100G GS1100E
KZ550A KZ700A GPZ750
CB400T CB900F
XJ750R
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Dre
I will pick some up, Also any ideas on getting a clamp tightened while they are installed? Anyone put a fuel filter on and where in the routing, it seems to be maybe too big... any good spots along the line?
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Take em off. You'll need the practice. Trust me1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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SqDancerLynn1
Leave the filter out !! I use reg 5/16 fuel line, but you must use a worm clamp or it will pop off. You will never get it on with the airbox on, so make it easy and remove it
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gearhead13
use heat to soften the fuel line and needle nose pliers to stretch the line opening. I got it done with the airbox on. But, I NEVER forget to put the fuel line on first now, learnt my lesson.
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Forum SageCharter Member
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 3869
- The Gulf Coast of south Florida in the winter and northern Nevada in the summer
Yes!!
I wrote a post a couple of years ago about getting the fuel line on without removing the carbs. It can be done and I've done it. This is an adaptation of a technique used in several different surgical procedures and here's how it works:
Cut your fuel line to length but no longer than necessary. Get a 'gutter spike' (which looks like a large nail). Spray the spike with WD-40 and slip the fuel line onto the gutter spike clear up to the head, if necessary. The tip of the gutter spike should be poking out of the bottom. If it's not, you'll need to trim it but it will still be long enough to connect to your petcock.
Make sure your gas inlet is sticking straight up and put the tip of the gutter spike into it. (Spray it with just a short shot of WD-40 or you can even put a couple of drops of oil on it...it won't make any difference at all in the end.) The tip will fit in about 1/8" inch, or so, and it won't slip out. Then, pushing the spike downward on the gas inlet (not hard), wiggle the fuel line while pushing downward on the fuel line with a steady motion.
It may take 20 or 30 seconds but it worked for me on the first attempt. If it doesn't go on, take the fuel line off of the spike, put on a couple of drops of oil on it and try again. It may be a little frustrating but if you get it on (and I think you will), you'll agree that it beats the living hell out of taking off the carbs.
P.S. As Gearhead suggests, I'm sure warming up the tip of the gas line first would also be a very good idea.Last edited by chuckycheese; 04-20-2009, 12:56 AM.1980 GS1100E....Number 15!
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gearhead13
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Forum SageCharter Member
Past Site Supporter- May 2002
- 3869
- The Gulf Coast of south Florida in the winter and northern Nevada in the summer
Long
Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostThats gotta be one heck of a long spike, like wow
Never heard of a gutter spike before1980 GS1100E....Number 15!
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Originally posted by Griffin View Post1/4" hose is really tight on the fuel nipple. With the carbs in place, I'm betting it will be nearly impossible to get it on there.
I use 9/32" fuel hose. I know that the extra 1/32" doesn't sound like much, but it makes removal and installation MUCH easier, yet still holds tightly. It must be closer to the metric tubing size originally used on these bikes.Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View PostLeave the filter out !! I use reg 5/16 fuel line, but you must use a worm clamp or it will pop off. You will never get it on with the airbox on, so make it easy and remove it
1/4" is 6.35 mm.
5/16" is very close to 8.0 mm (7.94 mm)
9/32" is 7.14 mm, so that's probably close enough.
That is, ... unless you order stock replacement hose which has thinner walls and will bend corners easier than the stuff you get at Auto Zone.
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