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Replacing Tranny ... Need Guidance

  • Thread starter Thread starter bdub416
  • Start date Start date
B

bdub416

Guest
Me and a couple fellow Forum members are going to attempt to replace the tranny in my 1982 gs450 ... I'll preface this with ... neither of us have ever done it before :) ...

Can someone breakdown the process in lehman's terms? Tips or advice ... things to look for?

List of gaskets/bolts/(others?) I should order and have on-hand before starting?

I have a manual and will be studying it prior to, but if there are other resources I should look at please advise.

Thanks for excusing my ignorance ... I'll keep this thread updated with progress (and pictures)...

Regards,
dubs

:pray:
 
Since the tranny is an integrated part of the engine, are you replacing the entire bottom end and installing your jugs and head or are you moving the innards over from another power plant to yours?

I would replace the entire engine with another powerplant to save time and effort. The 450 is a common engine and quite a few years and models interchange.
 
I wish that were the case duaneage, for as common of an engine as many claim ... they are incredibly hard to come by. I would welcome any leads.

The plan is to replace just the tranny. Tranny as the exception, the motor is in good condition.
 
Remove the clutch & stator covers, the clutch hub, ignition plate, & all retaining clips & bolts that hold the csae halves together. Split the cases & replace the trans. CLEAN the snot out of upper & lower case half mating surfaces, lightly coat the LOWER case half mating surface with Threebond 1207B, line up shift forks & gears to recieve them, & assemble case halves. You are doing this with the engine upside down after removing all bolts to separate. Make sure you have a GOOD manual! By good, I mean SUZUKI factory shop manual. Good luck, Ray.
 
I don't mean to be cruel but another GS could be found that might be less work to fix up than upending the power plant. Are you confident the parts you are installing are OK? Scratch that if going with new. What is wrong with the tranny that is leading up to this?

Get large pans and be prepared for a huge mess. The oil drips for days. Be careful removing the case bolts, don't use air power as the bolts could hang and snap off. Before you glue it together test the operation of the gears by going through each gear and slowly turning the engine over and then getting back to neutral. Might not be necessary but at least you'll know it should work.

I would take two saw horses, put boards between them leaving a 2 foot gap for the head and jugs, and this should allow the engine to hang. If you intend to pop the head and jugs it's more work, but easier to do the trans and test it. Needless to say, you're going to need a lot of beer and pizza for your friends.
 
How do you "split" the cases?

So obviously, we are taking the engine out of the bike and positioning it upside down to work on, right?

Thanks.

ps. I am one of the helpers
 
Thanks Rapidray, I should also clarify that I really only need to replace 2nd gear ... if that is more convenient? Reason for replacing tranny is that 2nd gear slips. We are going to look at the clutch first to rule out the easier fixes.
 
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Sounds like worn shifting forks or something like that. You should be able to identify what is worn and damaged and replace. Be careful not to damage the case halfs as they are matched and cannot be replaced individually.
 
bdub416 said:
Thanks Rapidray, I should also clarify that I really only need to replace 2nd gear ... if that is more convenient? Reason for replacing tranny is that 2nd gear slips. We are going to look at the clutch first to rule out the easier fixes.
Click to expand...
If you means 'slips' by slips out of gear, then it's the tranny. If 'slips' means that the engine revs up but the bike doesn't accelerate, then it's the clutch.
 
Call me at 714-356-7845. A LOT of guys here are either scared or lazy because this is an EASY job to do & not difficult for even a first timer! I do trans swaps in GS 1100 motors in 2 hours, with the motor sitting on my table, start to finish. If second gear is bad find a good trans & just swap it. If you are going to have the motor sitting around open while you order & wait for parts, you risk losing parts & getting crap inside the motor unless you take great care in wrapping stuff up. Let me know if I can help. Ray.
 
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ryonker said:
How do you "split" the cases?

So obviously, we are taking the engine out of the bike and positioning it upside down to work on, right?

Thanks.

ps. I am one of the helpers
Click to expand...
Yes, motor out of bike & remove UPPER case half bolts first, then turn motor over & remove lower case half bolts & split case halves. Ray.
 
ryonker said:
How do you "split" the cases?

So obviously, we are taking the engine out of the bike and positioning it upside down to work on, right?

Thanks.

ps. I am one of the helpers
Click to expand...
There are bolts that hold the case halves together. Remove them (look at your manual for reference and give the case half a tap with a rubber mallet to get it moving and seperate them. If the cases do not want to come apart - make sure you have all the bolts removed. They should separate without much effort. Use a rubber or plastic mallet. Do not use a steel hammer, a chisel, or a screwdriver. You'll break the cases or mar the surface and you'll ruin the cases.
 
rapidray said:
Call me at 714-356-7845. A LOT of guys here are either scared or lazy because this is an EASY job to do & not difficult for even a first timer! I do trans swaps in GS 1100 motors in 2 hours, with the motor sitting on my table, start to finish. If secong gear is bad find a good trans & just swap it. If you are going to have the motor sitting around open while you order & wait for parts, you risk losing parts & getting crap inside the motor unless you take great care in wrapping stuff up. Let me know if I can help. Ray.
Click to expand...
What Ray said. This isn't rocket science and if you pay attention to what you're doing and follow the manual you shouldn't have any problems.

As someone else said here to check the tranny by going throught the gears. I agree with that and do it after assembly, but before I re-install back into the bike. It's a simple test and could save you another removal.
 
You could also benefit from having another bottom end to compare with when working on it, since it is your first time. Digital pictures are handy to make sure you don't forget something. Get a good torque wrench suitable for 0-20 lbs or 0-240 inches of torque.
 
rapidray ... I'll definitely be calling you, thanks for the offer to assist.

I have a tranny on order, should be receiving today or tomorrow. And to address an earlier question, slipping gears meaning slips from 2nd to 3rd.

Thanks for all the responses guys!
 
Easy beating on those cases

Easy beating on those cases

I found that a rubber mallet was not enough to get my case halves apart. Or at least, if it was, it was with much more force than I was willing to use. Or more likely, I wasn't putting the force in the right place. But my case did have slots on the front and back - 1 each - into which one could fit a nut and then tighten a screw to force the halves apart gently and slowly (pardon me I don't know what they're called). Those worked a treat. Seems the fitment dowels were pretty tight in there. Of course that was an 82 550: not sure about the 450s, but I'd expect them to be the same or very similar.

Definitely - check the manual, and get an accurate bolt count when splitting the halves. There were some sneaky bolts in the crankcase. Also use some cardboard or a Styrofoam block to keep the bolts in order, as they differ in size. The GS550 had one slender but long bolt that came through the top, and one nut on the side of the case, from the top. Everything else was from the bottom.
 
mike_of_bbg said:
I found that a rubber mallet was not enough to get my case halves apart. Or at least, if it was, it was with much more force than I was willing to use. Or more likely, I wasn't putting the force in the right place. But my case did have slots on the front and back - 1 each - into which one could fit a nut and then tighten a screw to force the halves apart gently and slowly (pardon me I don't know what they're called). Those worked a treat. Seems the fitment dowels were pretty tight in there. Of course that was an 82 550: not sure about the 450s, but I'd expect them to be the same or very similar.
Click to expand...
Point taken. You can use the mallet on the output shaft if you need something nice to strike also.
 
So mostly it sounds like we will need basic tools, along with a torque wrench (which I have).

Any other specialty tools we might need?

Will a Clymers or Haynes manual work?

Rick
 
Getting the cases apart shouldn't be too hard. Take your time and be thorough. If the cases won't come apart after a little gentle hammering (haha@oxymoron), then look for one more bolt, lol.

I would recommend dropping the oil pan before pulling the motor and checking what you have in the pan. Often there are pieces there that can give you clues. Clean it and reinstall it before pulling the motor. When you flip the motor, all that crap would fall up into the motor.

The wear on the shift forks and gears can be subtle to the un-initiated. Take good photos that Ray or someone can check. It is also very important to check the shift drum. Constantly jumping out of gear can wear a dimple into the drum, causing a re-occurance of the problem.

Have fun with those retaining rings! :D
 
ryonker said:
So mostly it sounds like we will need basic tools, along with a torque wrench (which I have).

Any other specialty tools we might need?

Will a Clymers or Haynes manual work?

Rick
Click to expand...
Get a genuine Suzuki manual.
 
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