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Replacing Tranny ... Need Guidance

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    #16
    Easy beating on those cases

    I found that a rubber mallet was not enough to get my case halves apart. Or at least, if it was, it was with much more force than I was willing to use. Or more likely, I wasn't putting the force in the right place. But my case did have slots on the front and back - 1 each - into which one could fit a nut and then tighten a screw to force the halves apart gently and slowly (pardon me I don't know what they're called). Those worked a treat. Seems the fitment dowels were pretty tight in there. Of course that was an 82 550: not sure about the 450s, but I'd expect them to be the same or very similar.

    Definitely - check the manual, and get an accurate bolt count when splitting the halves. There were some sneaky bolts in the crankcase. Also use some cardboard or a Styrofoam block to keep the bolts in order, as they differ in size. The GS550 had one slender but long bolt that came through the top, and one nut on the side of the case, from the top. Everything else was from the bottom.

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      #17
      Originally posted by mike_of_bbg View Post
      I found that a rubber mallet was not enough to get my case halves apart. Or at least, if it was, it was with much more force than I was willing to use. Or more likely, I wasn't putting the force in the right place. But my case did have slots on the front and back - 1 each - into which one could fit a nut and then tighten a screw to force the halves apart gently and slowly (pardon me I don't know what they're called). Those worked a treat. Seems the fitment dowels were pretty tight in there. Of course that was an 82 550: not sure about the 450s, but I'd expect them to be the same or very similar.
      Point taken. You can use the mallet on the output shaft if you need something nice to strike also.

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        #18
        So mostly it sounds like we will need basic tools, along with a torque wrench (which I have).

        Any other specialty tools we might need?

        Will a Clymers or Haynes manual work?

        Rick

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          #19
          Getting the cases apart shouldn't be too hard. Take your time and be thorough. If the cases won't come apart after a little gentle hammering (haha@oxymoron), then look for one more bolt, lol.

          I would recommend dropping the oil pan before pulling the motor and checking what you have in the pan. Often there are pieces there that can give you clues. Clean it and reinstall it before pulling the motor. When you flip the motor, all that crap would fall up into the motor.

          The wear on the shift forks and gears can be subtle to the un-initiated. Take good photos that Ray or someone can check. It is also very important to check the shift drum. Constantly jumping out of gear can wear a dimple into the drum, causing a re-occurance of the problem.

          Have fun with those retaining rings!

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            #20
            Originally posted by ryonker View Post
            So mostly it sounds like we will need basic tools, along with a torque wrench (which I have).

            Any other specialty tools we might need?

            Will a Clymers or Haynes manual work?

            Rick
            Get a genuine Suzuki manual.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Don-lo View Post
              Getting the cases apart shouldn't be too hard. Take your time and be thorough. If the cases won't come apart after a little gentle hammering (haha@oxymoron), then look for one more bolt, lol.

              I would recommend dropping the oil pan before pulling the motor and checking what you have in the pan. Often there are pieces there that can give you clues. Clean it and reinstall it before pulling the motor. When you flip the motor, all that crap would fall up into the motor.

              The wear on the shift forks and gears can be subtle to the un-initiated. Take good photos that Ray or someone can check. It is also very important to check the shift drum. Constantly jumping out of gear can wear a dimple into the drum, causing a re-occurance of the problem.

              Have fun with those retaining rings!
              Good suggestion about dropping the pan first. My 1100 had aluminum shavings that were obvious leftovers from production since there was absolutely nothing wrong with the motor. Long curly shavings stuck in the oil screen. Funny do a degree.

              The genuine Suzkuki manuals have all the information on wear right at your fingertips. Get one and read it several times to get acquained with the procedure.

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                #22
                Thanks guys, appreciate the guidance. Not going to lie, I was much more ambitious prior to reading all of your comments ...

                Why is it I am unable to find a suzuki manual online? I should be able to find one specific to my bike model correct (1982 gs450 txz)?

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                  #23
                  Bite the bullet & go to your closest dealer & talk to the parts manager & one of the service guys. Get to KNOW them as it will make your life way easier if you can get them to like you & WANT to help you. Even if they know you are doing your own work, if they believe you are buying your parts from THEM you will still get treated well. If not, hopefully you have another Suzuki dealer near. All of my business is because I try to treat all of my customers WELL! I get along with the dealers I buy from because it helps ME in the process. I keep them up to date on my projects & even get offers of help from them from time to time. After all this rant my point is to buy the SUZUKI manual from the DEALER even if it costs a little more. It can help your relationship with them in the long run. Ray.

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                    #24
                    Positioning engine

                    I have another question;

                    What do you put the engine on to work on it? Any tips about how to brace it for ease of work? Anyone make an engine mount or holder of some type?

                    Thanks!

                    Rick the helper

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                      After all this rant my point is to buy the SUZUKI manual from the DEALER even if it costs a little more. It can help your relationship with them in the long run. Ray.
                      What Ray said.

                      I got a lot of help from my closest Suzuki dealer's parts counter over the years, just because I was a pleasant, repeat customer, was polite and was willing to be helped.

                      Some of the parts guys spend their slow-time flipping through all the catalogs and know how to find stuff.

                      Of course the guys I had a good relationship with have now become a Yamaha-only shop, so I've got to schlep myself across town to a place that doesn't know me at all.

                      - Richard

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by ryonker View Post
                        I have another question;

                        What do you put the engine on to work on it? Any tips about how to brace it for ease of work? Anyone make an engine mount or holder of some type?

                        Thanks!

                        Rick the helper
                        I use a nice, solid, wooden top bench. It's fairly tall because I like to work standing up and at 6'3", normal size benches have me bending over.

                        You can work anywhere on it, even the floor. Just have some wood under the engine to give it someplace nice to lay.

                        You guys that live close to dealers have it made.

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                          #27
                          15 minutes away for me & the parts manager is a friend & I built the motor in his dragbike! Ray.

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