Starting to get frustrated

[TheCafeKid]

OK, the 200 (yes, that's 200, not 20.0) is your pilot air jet, and it lives in the intake throat. That is a bit larger than stock, which is 180. This will tend to lean out your pilot mixture. Quite frankly, I don't remember having anybody ever mention changing these jets on a stock bike.

The 42.5 jets are the pilot fuel jets, they are the ones that live in the float bowl, next to the main jets, behind the rubber plugs. That is the stock size and should be OK.

Your main jets are the ones to be concerned about, though. Stock is 115. With your MAC pipe, you would need something between a 120 and 125, depending on how well it's baffled. My son's '81 850G has a pipe that might be a MAC, but we're not sure. It is well-baffled (quiet enough to run with our GoldWings ) and is running 120 mains. A freer-flowing (noisier) pipe would need 122.5 or 125 mains, unless you are also running pod filters, then I would suggest 130s.

If it were my bike, I would suggest getting the stock 180 pilot air jets back in, changing the mains as suggested above and starting with the idle mixture adjustment screws at 3 turns out from lightly seated.

By the way, the easiest way to tell which carb is the "master" carb?
It's the one that the cable pulls on first. All the others are liked to that one.

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Unless you looked it up, im not possitive the 180 WAS the stock pilot airjet. Bill swears up and down they're 160s, and so have a couple of other people. But BOTH of the sets of 1100E carbs i have had 180s in them. HOWEVER, neither bike was in stock form when i bought it, and jetting had been done to them.

On changing the pilot air jet: Dynojet calls for changing out to THEIR pilot air jet (and I dont know what size in MIKUNI that would be, but in DYNOJET sizes, theirs IS a 160) IF the bike will start cold with no choke, and idle rises above recommended specifications when warm. Basicly, they include that airjet to LEAN that circuit out from what it sounds like. Some bikes actually DO have to be leaned in certain circuits when going to pods and a pipe. The Dynojet kit for a GSXR for example includes recucing "plugs" for the holes in the slides, (where we would drill them out) and the main jet is actually SMALLER than stock...alot has to do with their needle design more than anything...

But Steve is pretty right on with his explaination and jetting suggestions. Im not quite sure if or how the amount of packing in the baffle enters into the equation at all, but im going to see how much things change when i repack my SuperTrapp tonight or tomorrow.. I am running a 138 (the DJ equivelant to just about a mikuni 130) with the clip in the 4th slot from bottom. I am hoping that i dont end up too rich still after repacking...I doubt it but we'll see...

[biker_guy]

well right now it's a freer flowing exhaust because part of the baffle has rusted it out. It's not designed to hold any packing material so it may just be a freer flowing exhaust anyway. I've been trying to get a new baffle cause it's only like 30 bucks shipped. This is the only place I could find a replacement http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/baffles.htm it's the one at the top you first see when you open the page.

When I looked though the jets I was really hoping to find that one was different from the others. Maybe that was the problem with why one of the carbs was kinda hickuping. It's almost like someone would hit the kill switch for just a split second and turn it back on. Only at idle and less than 1/8 throttle. At a stop light I could feel the airbox tap the side of my leg if it did it bad enough. But since that wasn't it I hope this dip gets something I missed.

Do you guys have any recommended sites for the cheapest to get jets?

[Steve]

Unless you looked it up, im not possitive the 180 WAS the stock pilot airjet. But Steve is pretty right on with his explaination and jetting suggestions. ...

From the carb "sticky" at the top of the forum, post #38:

1982 GS850GZ Carb. Specs.

mm (in.)

Carb. type: Mikuni BS32SS
Bore size: 32 (1.26)
I.D. no. 45160*
Idle rpm/min 1050 +- 100 rpm
Fuel Level 5.0 +- 0.5 (0.2 +- 0.02)
Float height 22.4 +- 1.0 (0.88 +- 0.04)
Main Jet #115
Main air jet 1.7
Jet needle 5D50
Needle jet X-5
Pilot jet #40
By pass 1.0, 0.8, 0.8
Pilot outlet 0.7
Valve seat 2.0
Starter jet #32.5
Pilot screw pre-set (well.....maybe)
Pilot air jet #180*
Throttle cable play 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04)
Choke cable play 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04)

*New Z model spec.

Im not quite sure if or how the amount of packing in the baffle enters into the equation at all, but im going to see how much things change when i repack my SuperTrapp tonight or tomorrow. ...

Can anybody argue that the amount of packing or the type of material will affect the air flow through the muffler?
One reason the carbs need to be re-jetted when adding a 4-into-1 pipe is that it flows more air.
Does it not make sense that some fine-tuning might be in order if you change the amount of air flowing by changing the packing?

.

[TheCafeKid]

From the carb "sticky" at the top of the forum, post #38:




Can anybody argue that the amount of packing or the type of material will affect the air flow through the muffler?
One reason the carbs need to be re-jetted when adding a 4-into-1 pipe is that it flows more air.
Does it not make sense that some fine-tuning might be in order if you change the amount of air flowing by changing the packing?

.

Your carbs' specs are for an 850, which used BS32SS, Mine are BS34SS...Which are what I thought we were speaking of, so my fault there.. .

Actually, Ive been doing A LOT of reading on the flow rate of a 4into1 vs a stock pipe, and the consensus is that MANY 4into1 headers in reality DO NOT flow any more air than the stock pipes. In my pipes case, certainly, but it depends on how large the final stage of the exhaust is. If your stock pipes have a 1.5 inch opening each, and your new 4into1 isnt at LEAST 3 inches past the collector, you're not flowing any more air. it becomes a weight savings and sound/asthetics issue at that point. Now, if you were flowing out of that 3 inch pipe completely FREE, no baffle, that would be a different story.

Another example. My SuperTrapp pipe has (and i havent actually measured the diameter after the collector so this is a guess) roughly a 3.5 inch pipe from the collector to the can. However, in my reading, and answers to my questions from those who KNOW these pipes well, drag racers mostly, A SuperTrapp pipe with LESS than 7 discs mounted is just as constrictive, if not MORE SO, than the stock exhaust.

[Steve]

Your carbs' specs are for an 850, which used BS32SS, Mine are BS34SS...Which are what I thought we were speaking of, so my fault there..

Well, the original poster has an '82 850L, so I have been thinking that those are the carbs we're supposed to be talking about.

By the way, post #38, quoted above, is for an '82. Post #20 covers the '80 models, and they do have a 200 pilot air jet.

.

[biker_guy]

So with the same size motor and same carbs what's the deal with the different jets? Would that mean this jet combo is fine? is there a way to check what needle I have? because it seems like right now I have a carbs off a bike from 80 not 82.

[biker_guy]

OK so here's where I'm at now. Carbs were dipped, cleaned, new o-rings, then I synced. the Stuttering is gone. I adjusted the mixture screws to highest idle. #2 didn't matter if I had it all the way in or almost all the way out didn't do anything. Checked the bowl and there's gas getting to it. Fired it up again and it sounded fine. Shut it off went to get my helmet cranked it up and it sounded like crap again. Went for a run around the block sounding like crap the whole way no matter what I did. Came back pulled the #2 sparkplug wire while running and the motor did not change. put it back on and pulled #1 and it died. Took out the #2 sparkpulg and there is spark.

[Buffalo Bill]

Where you at Dude?

OK so here's where I'm at now. Carbs were dipped, cleaned, new o-rings, then I synced. the Stuttering is gone. I adjusted the mixture screws to highest idle. #2 didn't matter if I had it all the way in or almost all the way out didn't do anything. Checked the bowl and there's gas getting to it. Fired it up again and it sounded fine. Shut it off went to get my helmet cranked it up and it sounded like crap again. Went for a run around the block sounding like crap the whole way no matter what I did. Came back pulled the #2 sparkplug wire while running and the motor did not change. put it back on and pulled #1 and it died. Took out the #2 sparkpulg and there is spark.

I think it's all about the carbs. Have you done any reading on what your doing? The info you give us is all over the place. I got no idea what jets, needles, carbs or idle screw setting you started with or where you're at now. You have to study some, read books, narrow down the issues, then just feed us the minimum info, to get just the one answer you can use. Most of the work (99%) is up to you. Sleep on it, ideas may come in the dark.

[biker_guy]

Not to be rude just gotta be quick I'm at work. the jet info is on page 2 of this post. The mixture screw and idle screw settings are from basscliff site with the using the highest idle. To get cauht up I've done everything the guys on this thread have told me to do. I didn't know I need to repeat all that everytime I post. I read and search everything I can before posting anything cause I like answers now and you all have jobs and can't be waiting for me to post. Hope I didn't come off sharp just gotta run thanx for all the help

[biker_guy]

I guess the #2 carb is having vac. problems. I've confirmed it's getting gas and the sparkplug is firing. If I crack the float bowl a bit and let some gas out it the bike starts running better untill I shut it off. I don't know what letting gas out of the float bowl would do. But I checked to make sure I didn't put a hole in the diafram make sure the spring is in there make sure it moves up and down. Unless I cause a blockage while cleaning I don't know what all to check on the carbs to make sure I did things right. Aside from the diafram and the mixture screw if you put everything back I don't see much to mess up. Everything only fits one way. And I have no extra parts laying around. And I did everything the same so I don't know why one carb is not working correctly.

[almarconi]

If I crack the float bowl a bit and let some gas out it the bike starts running better untill I shut it off.

Did you set the float height correctly?

[biker_guy]

Well I adjusted it but I don't know if I did it right. I measured the step like your supposed to and adjusted the tab. I measured the other side to double check. Only one was right on on both sides. But I wasn't sure what to do really because reading on basscliff's site it says not to mess with the individual floats just the tab. I should have marked which ones.

Also something I should have marked is that the corner of one floats crumbled little. Not much but a corner is not smooth like that rest of the float. I was reading that some floats are hollow or whatever so that the fuel gets inside or effects it somehow if punchered. Thought I'd mention that incease that makes the difference.