Honda R/R Sense wire - Direct to Battery?

[posplayr]

Dave,
When I first saw it (from an engineering perspective) the coil relay mod seemed to be a patch job at best. Since then I have come around considering the way the wiring and switches are on the old GS to think it is a great addition and I have do it to my ED.
I know some guys are putting many more relays on (light, horns, and now R/R sense), but I kinda prefer just the one at this point (I only have OEM light and horns however).
Jim

Im with ya Pos. Duane is not a big fan of any relay. I just couldnt figure how to clean the ign switch contacts. Its the only thing left that could be dropping voltage. I did the RR sense relay mod cause I was up over 15vdc. My brake light supply wire was only 10.5vdc. Now Im at a solid 14.5vdc with the relay.

In these old airplanes there is a Master relay switch and a Generator switch.
If I had 2 small switches, one for the coils and one for the RR sense, straight from the battery + no one could ever start or steal my Bike Just gotta remember to turn them off.

[mostholycerebus]

Well, something is wrong because now I get nothing when I hit the start button.

I cut the two orange-with-white-stripe wires going into the coils and crimped them both together into a spade terminal, which connects to a wire. That wire then runs down to relay terminal #87. I left the coil white and black wires alone.

I took apart the kill switch and headlight. The kill switch has three wires coming out of it; Orange, Yellow and Orange/White. I THINK orange is the power to the switch. It goes down to the headlight into a harness, where on the other side of the harness it becomes an Orange/white. This is where I added a wire running to relay terminal #86.

Terminal #30 is connected to battery red with an inline fuse.

Terminal #85 is connected to battery ground.

Now when I turn the bike on all the lights come up, but when I hit the starter nothing happens.

I'm a bit lost here now....

[posplayr]

If need a volt meter or test light

make sure that the power to #86 goes up and down with your ignition/ON switch.

As i said there is an easy way to do this. No need to go into the right hand switch so not really sure what you did.

If #86 does not go up and down then you did something wrong in the switch area.

[bonanzadave]

I cut the two orange-with-white-stripe wires going into the coils and crimped them both together into a spade terminal, Those two wires go to term 86 which connects to a wire. That wire then runs down to relay terminal #87. ??? You have to connect two new wires to term 87 and then connect them to the coils where the orange-with white stripe wires were I left the coil white and black wires alone. Thats good

I took apart the kill switch and headlight. The kill switch has three wires coming out of it; Orange, Yellow and Orange/White. I THINK orange is the power to the switch. It goes down to the headlight into a harness, where on the other side of the harness it becomes an Orange/white. This is where I added a wire running to relay terminal #86. Ya shouldnt had to do that.

Terminal #30 is connected to battery red with an inline fuse. Thats good

Terminal #85 is connected to battery ground. Thats good

Now when I turn the bike on all the lights come up, but when I hit the starter nothing happens. Do you have the clutch pulled in ? Kill switch off ? Fuse blown ?

I'm a bit lost here now....

Keep at it. Youll get it.....

[posplayr]

How I did it

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=999768#post999768

GoodLuck

[mostholycerebus]

As i said there is an easy way to do this. No need to go into the right hand switch so not really sure what you did.

Yeah, I thought so, but when i search old posts and read the stuff on basscliffs site everyone talks about wiring in to the kill switch. Ill check out the linked PDF.

[posplayr]

mostholycerebus

Yeah, I thought so, but when i search old posts and read the stuff on basscliffs site everyone talks about wiring in to the kill switch.

Well we are talking about the same wires orange /wire wire which is switched battery voltage from the ignition and OH switch (with two trips through the fuse box ).

Since the jumpering (orange/white to green/white) can occur in the headlamp, there is no reason to open up the kill switch unless you want to do the Starter Clucth mod which and can be done in addition to the approach I posted.

Jim

[mostholycerebus]

Since the jumpering (orange/white to green/white) can occur in the headlamp,

You completely lost me here. I opened the Kill switch just to find which wire is power to the switch. There seem to be an orange, and orange/white, and a yellow and all three go down to the headlight where a big snarl of wire becomes 6+ orange wires.

[posplayr]

He is the guts of an 80-81 GS750E kill switch. Orange comes from the ignition switch to the fuse box and is the input (+12V) to the kill switch.
The orange/white is the output of the kill switch (switched +12V) that powers the ignition. Yellow/Green powers the solenoid.



Here I have accessed the orange/white (switched +12v) at the place where the kill switch plugs into the harness. I'm attaching the orange/white to control the coil relay.



Pos