Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Clutch doesn't disengage fully

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Clutch doesn't disengage fully

    It seems that even with the lever fully pulled in the clutch is still partially engaged?

    It makes it a huge pain when starting, have to start in neutral.

    Plus idling at lights.

    And walking the bike is a pain too when in gear.

    It doesn't seem to be a cable issue as the clutch doesn't engage anymore until the lever is about 80-90% out, the rest is a dead zone, but it is still enganged that little bit?

    i searched but when you search for "clutch" you get a TON of unrelated hit...

    #2
    Does your bike use a clutch push rod or a lever?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3


      does that help? Sorry, I would guess that it uses a pushrod...

      also it does it worse some times than other, usually worst in the morning.

      when in neutral and you shirft into 1st it will "hit" pretty hard, like the clutch is out a bit, which it is.

      Comment


        #4
        Same problem with my clutch... new cable, discs, push rod, etc... have had it apart three of four times hoping to find something wrong.... no dice..
        Do you notice any change after warm up? Mine gets worse the longer I ride, which is the exact opposite of what I expected.. I had figured the pusher rod would expand once hot and allow the clutch to disengage fully once hot...


        Your setup is similar to my 77... I had better results adjusting the clutch when the motor was hot and backing the adjuster out very little, say 1/8th turn, before locking it down... Still causes problems, but makes for much less drag when I have the lever pulled when I am riding.
        Last edited by dardoonk; 04-27-2009, 12:55 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          Mine does the same thing too. The first time I put it in gear I almost went into the garage door. Good thing my other hand was on the brake. I tightened my cable up ALOT and it doesn't kick as rough anymore but I still feel it move when I shift into first (and yes it is pulled all the way to the bar). Pretty sure this shouldn't happen but I can't make the cable much tighter. Mine gets better after it is warm. Any one out there that can help us?
          Last edited by Guest; 04-27-2009, 01:00 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            Try adjusting the cable at the point where it meets the clutch (rather than from the lever) , and then adjust the lever. Worked for me when I had this problem, I just had to fiddle with the right amount of tension to start off at.


            POOT

            Comment


              #7
              I took out the barnett plates and put stock ones in,..... problem solved.
              GSX1300R NT650 XV535

              Comment


                #8
                I have tried both ends of the clutch cable AND the adjustment of the locknut adjuster under the cover plate.

                Still does it.

                Mine is better after riding a bit, BUT will do it hot after, say, going into a store for 5 min. Rough shifts for a bit too, have to pull hard to get it to shift. After 3-5 min of riding it shifts like butter. Park it it is back.

                Also it doesnt ALWAYS do it, kinda random, more times than not, but still kinda randomly doesnt do it. When tparked it is ALWAYS harder to push it with the clutch in than it is to push it in neutral, a lot more than the clutches being in fluid would IMO.

                Thanks!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Generally, when the oil is thick, like when first starting up, it will be the worst. Your clutch system is a multi-plate friction clutch, thicker, stickier oil causes the problem. If you live in cold country like I do, it has to warm up for about 5-7 min before the clutch will release properly and allow it to shift into first gear. You might want to try changing the brand of oil or use a part synthetic oil to help alleviate the problem. Whatever you do, don't put any oil additives in it ( some will make it stickier too) or use the energy saving oils, as that will cause the clutches to slip.
                  I use 10/40 notor oil predominately (doesn't have to be motorcycle specific), but when I'm in hot weather (more than 70 deg. F on a constant basis) I switch to 20/50. I have also used Rotella T 15/40 diesel cert oil, since three of my vehicles use it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Since all of you (except the NC one) are in the northern climes as I am, the clutch problem will be there until summer blows in. Competition clutch paks only make the problem worse, you might want to check that out and change back to stock clutches. I have the same problem with MSF bikes when I'm teaching in the early spring and late fall.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Well after adjusting the pushrod clearance the clutch seems a bit smoother (not sure that makes sense), it used to be a lot stickier when you stopped, ie: when you are holding just in the engagement zone before a light turns gree.

                      But the early morning clutch half in thing is still there...


                      I used Motul 10/40 motorcycle oil last week.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X