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    Minimal road trip servicing?

    Sorry, this has probably been asked before, but I haven't a clue what to search for.

    I'm embarking on several road trips with my GS750E next month (from BC to Utah for one), and while I'm good with cars, I don't really know that much about fixing bikes. I live in an apartment in the middle of a busy city and don't have anywhere to work on anything these days anyway. The bike is low km's and just had a full service at a local bike shop, so I don't expect it to be particularly fragile, but I'd like to know what things I should be checking (and how often) on the road.

    At the moment the only tools I'm planning on bringing are:
    - leatherman
    - DMM
    - a length of wire, some zip ties, duct tape
    - cell phone (for anythign that can't be fixed by the above)

    And the things I check when I ride:
    - lights and signals (almost every time)
    - oil sight level (often)
    - battery charging voltage (occasionally)
    - tire pressure and condition (often)

    What else should I be checking? or learning how to do?
    - chain tension?
    - how many kms between oil changes should I be running on the highway?
    - plug wrench?
    - changing/patching tires?
    - ???


    Thanks,
    Skye
    Last edited by Guest; 04-29-2009, 02:03 PM.

    #2
    Since I'm a shafty rider, feel free to ignore my opinion if you wish. I would add to your minimal tool kit a Hex Key (allen wrench) set, a small maglite flashlight and a small pair of vice grips. I would think at the end of each day You should Clean/lube the chain and check it for slack as well.
    sigpic2002 KLR650 Ugly but fun!
    2001 KLR650 too pretty to get dirty

    Life is a balancing act, enjoy every day, "later" will come sooner than you think. Denying yourself joy now betting you will have health and money to enjoy life later is a bad bet.

    Where I've been Riding


    Comment


      #3
      Lucky you. I wish I were going with you. sounds like a hoot.

      You are not doing a world circumnavigation or a Long Way Around or Down so no need to go overboard.(Those guys had a support van and crew anyway).

      In addition to the tools you are carrying I would include some fuses and electrical tape.

      I'm going to assume that the battery is good and your charging is fine but I would have these checked if you're not sure. Charging problems are an issue with these bikes and can leave you stranded. To monitor things as you ride I would wire in a digital or analogue voltage meter. I always put on a cheap 2" analogue unit to keep an eye on as I ride. Available at Princess Auto, Crappy tire or other auto stores $6 to $10 or so.

      The tires are good too I'm sure but, of course if suspect change them before you go. In addition, I would carry a tubless tire repair kit with the string type plugs. I also carry an electric tire inflator, stripped down to fit the bike. Basically one of those cheap auto or plastic toy inflator pumps. Remove the metal pump gizmo from the plastic housing and cut off the cigarette plug adapter and replace with two alligator clips to clip to the battery if and when needed. Don't forget a small tire guage as well.

      There is lots of room on the E under the seat and in the tail for tool storage so you could carry some wrenches and vicegrips and the like as well. The more tools you have the less likely hood you'll need them Kind of like cheap trip insurance.

      Enjoy the trip, take lots of pics and share when you get back.

      Cheers,
      Spyug

      Comment


        #4
        Hi Mr. SNott,

        I would consider taking a tire plug kit (if you have tubless tires), a few CO2 cartridges or small air pump, tools enough to change a spark plug and make minor repairs/adjustments on the bike (a few wrenches, couple of screwdrivers, a crescent wrench), perhaps a small battery charger, tire pressure gauge, and some chain lube. The most important tools are a cell phone and a credit card.

        Your engine oil should be changed at least every 2000 miles, if not more often. I think the chain should be lubed at least every 400 miles or so. Check for slack daily, according to your manual.

        Good luck!


        Thank you for your indulgence,

        BassCliff

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks for the tips! Very useful. Tires are brand new.
          Here's my new minimal list which isn't that minimal, but should all easily fit in the tail section.

          - Leatherman big multi-tool
          - Screwdriver multi-bit
          - small adjustable wrench
          - spark plug wrench
          - spare spark plug (NGK D8EA)
          - plug gap tool
          - small vice-grip
          - hex keys?
          - pressure gauge
          - DMM and wire
          - gaffer's tape
          - bit of sandpaper
          - bit of stiff wire
          - kerosene (chain clean) (shared with MSR camp stove)
          - engine oil (doubles as chain lube) 10W-40
          - chain link & tool
          - cotter pins
          - blue nitrile gloves (good for cold/wet weather glove liners too)
          - wad of blue shop towels
          - magnetic bendy flashlight
          - tubeless tire repair kit with the string type plugs
          - electric tire inflator (toy pump stripped with alligator clips)

          More questions (oh joy )

          - What is the hex key set for? I haven't really looked, are there a lot on the bike? Probably just 2 or 3 sizes I'd guess?

          - The Suzuki Shop Manual says "After washing and drying the chain, oil it with a heavy-weight motor oil. Do not use commercial 'drive chain oil'". The cap on the engine says 10W-40 (or-50), can I just use the same weight to lube the chain? one less thing to carry.

          - I can't find any mention of fuses in the manual, where and what kind??

          Thanks!
          Skye
          Last edited by Guest; 05-03-2009, 12:16 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            You can do without the kerosene. Just spray liberally with the chain lube then wipe the side plates clean. Here is the latest and supposedly greatest thing for chains.


            Your valve cover is held on with socket cap bolts and needs a hex key.

            Comment


              #7
              The factory service manual says specifically to use kerosene to clean and motor oil to lube, and nothing else or risk damage to the O-rings. Are they just being paranoid? If I use kerosene in my camp stove and cleaning, and engine oil for engine and chain like they suggest, then that cuts down on stuff to pack.

              Comment


                #8
                Leathermans and duct tape should do ya.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  One more thing comes to mind. In a simple parking lot tipover, if you break off the brake lever it's inconvenient, if you break the clutch lever, you are stuck. I would stash a spare somewhere on the bike. The vice grips can be used as a makeshift shifter should something happen to it.
                  sigpic2002 KLR650 Ugly but fun!
                  2001 KLR650 too pretty to get dirty

                  Life is a balancing act, enjoy every day, "later" will come sooner than you think. Denying yourself joy now betting you will have health and money to enjoy life later is a bad bet.

                  Where I've been Riding


                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by SNott View Post
                    The factory service manual says specifically to use kerosene to clean and motor oil to lube, and nothing else or risk damage to the O-rings. Are they just being paranoid? If I use kerosene in my camp stove and cleaning, and engine oil for engine and chain like they suggest, then that cuts down on stuff to pack.
                    I have the same manual. There are plenty of o-ring safe lubes out there. I only use the kerosene or diesel if my chain gets really filthy. Most lubes do a good job of removing the gunk and a spray lube will be much less of a chore and not near as messy. I have a extra clutch lever I could send you if you think you want a spare.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      [QUOTE=Billy Ricks;1002874]I have the same manual. There are plenty of o-ring safe lubes out there. I only use the kerosene or diesel if my chain gets really filthy. Most lubes do a good job of removing the gunk and a spray lube will be much less of a chore and not near as messy. QUOTE]

                      Keep in mind that the manual is from 25 plus years ago. Chain lube has come a long way in 25 years.
                      sigpic2002 KLR650 Ugly but fun!
                      2001 KLR650 too pretty to get dirty

                      Life is a balancing act, enjoy every day, "later" will come sooner than you think. Denying yourself joy now betting you will have health and money to enjoy life later is a bad bet.

                      Where I've been Riding


                      Comment


                        #12
                        You might also get new clutch & throttle cables before going. If you old ones are not bad you could bring them along for spares just in case.
                        82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
                        81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
                        83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
                        06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
                        AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          humn o.k. this is what i take..
                          1/4 drive with 1/2 inch on the other side... 8 mil and ten and 12 sockets.one 12 closed end /open
                          cresent .for emegency tire take offs.
                          and 18 mil socket for spark plugs with an extension.. and pair of pliers.

                          as i have a honda rectafiyer .i dont worry about electrics.. in the 15 years i have had the bike i have replced one signal light,one head light. zap straps are good to have.

                          chain check every day center stand engine off neutral spin wheel both ways .. wax/spray. if needed.

                          before you go take off the drive cover (where your small cog is .make sure the washer is still bent and it is tight.take out excess oil and crud with a putty knive or like.)
                          if you need to do a valve ajustment. oil change.
                          if you have a air box clean that filter..and re oil.
                          check the life left on your chain .. make sure there is enough for your trip.if there isnt you aint going till there is..
                          so get new set cogs and all.
                          thats all i can think of now.dont take too many tools. also wrap them in cloth that you can use to clean your hands.if nessary.wrap well elastic bands or other. depending on where you put it... you dont want them comming out ...
                          have a nice trip..(personally i cant change a tire tried it once and sctratched the hell out of the rim .)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            deff .. check your cables for wear(before you go). and yes a spare clutch handle is good. if your worried. allen keys for fork braces .and phillips screw driver (letherman?)
                            its a far journey but not all that ..
                            make sure your fit.
                            make sure you drink enogh h2o /juice(vit c) # two cause of bike crashes after drinking and driving (# 1) dehydration?alertness...
                            so if your tierd stop and get a drink if your cold stop and warm up or put on some extra layers..
                            know how to ajaust your chain properly.. before you go.. ive donr mine for a few years but i did a mistake the other day and nearly crashed because of it.. one of the bolts wasnt tight enough.. makes it very hard to go round a corner at speed.
                            youll have a great time .. the bike is strong and will do well .also be aware the more you pack on the more the bike will handle diff.rently...i owuld keep the tools out in a bag rather than in the hole behind the seat...

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Just don't be like Steve Martin in "The Jerk" when he leaves his Carny Girlfriend.
                              That's all I need.....
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                              Comment

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