So the cams have to be timed right?

[atchbo]

I love how the first cam to be timed is the one with the lobe pushing down the valve... it keeps wanting to slip forward/back, and I'm pretty sure that for 3 tries in a row I didn't get the chain tight enough on the exhaust (one link out at least). Each of my first 3 tries, once the cams were on the engine wouldn't rotate a full cycle (something was binding up) and I had to take the cams off and find TDC again.

Any tips or tricks from the crowd?

Atchbo

[posplayr]

Binding? Your chains is off. Read the manual for specific directions on where to set the chain/cams

[Nessism]

The manual shows using a pair of vice grips to clamp down on the exhaust cam to hold it in place. Never tried this but worth a try if you can get the timing correct otherwise.

[hampshirehog]

The vice grips (mole grips is the 'proper' UK name) method works really easily. If you're worried about damaging the paint on your cylinder block wrap one side of your grips in electrical tape.

[atchbo]

Thanks, that's a good idea. I'll give it a go.

[atchbo]

Ok, so I've been through it all again. I installed the cams, chain and shims. I used the vice grips (helps a lot). I tightened everything in place without moving the crank or the cams. I installed the tensioner.

Now, when I rotate the engine by the crank, I can see the piston hitting the valve ! So I must have the crank at 180* from TDC, right? Bugger@!

I have been aligning the mark next to T on the timing window with the permanent metal mark by the window.

I'll go back and read some more.

[atchbo]

Please help! One more question: do I have to completely remove the cam chain tensioner if I want to correct the cams?

I'm just wondering if I can turn the knurled adjuster screw in/out without taking that PITA off again. Speaking of which, why the heck have something with such a big, inviting knob for an adjustment that only happens once in a blue moon?

[Billy Ricks]

Please help! One more question: do I have to completely remove the cam chain tensioner if I want to correct the cams?

I'm just wondering if I can turn the knurled adjuster screw in/out without taking that PITA off again. Speaking of which, why the heck have something with such a big, inviting knob for an adjustment that only happens once in a blue moon?

You're going to have to remove it to get enough slack to get the cams out.

[TheCafeKid]

You HAVE to remove the cam chain tensioner to properly time the cams. Not doing so will put undo tension on the cams and pull them out of alignment with the |T 1-4 mark on your timing plate. THIS is the mark you time the cams to. On top of removing the cam tensioner, you will have to reset it to instal and arm it properly. Consult your manual on doing this, or Brian Wringer has a nice little tutorial about cleaning, rebuilding and setting the tensioner, as well as its importance on BassCliff's website. Not sure of the link or id leave it. Also, you must be certain that the chain has not bound or kinked a link on the crank. To do this, you really need three hands, honestly. Two to act as "finger guides" for the chain, where the cams would be, and then one hand to turn the crank a couple of times to assure that its spinning freely. You need to retain tension on the front side of the chain esspecially untill you get the exhaust cam in place so you dont invite the chain to kink again. Only after you have the cams both installed and timed do *I* install the cam chain tensioner, and arm it. BTW, the tensioner is automatic. Other than occasional removal for cleaning or maintainence, you should NEVER EVER turn that knob, ESSPECIALLY when the motor is running.