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I’VE GOT A PROBLEM. I’m going to start from the beginning. I’m kind of embarrassed because for the past 25 years I always did my own wrenching. I’m a do it your self kind of guy. As long as I had the right tools I’d give it a go, and I usually did a good job, but this time things aren’t working out for me. This problem has been with me for 2 years and I can’t get it right. It all started one night riding my 1984 GS 1150 ES. I needed gas, so I stopped at a local gas station and filled up. I started heading home when my bike started running bad. It seemed like it was running on 2 cylinders. It then ran fine for a little while and then again the same problem.
I got home and took the gas tank off and found one of the coil mounting screws had loosened and the coil was resting on top of the engine head. I took ohm readings and found it to be faulty. I replaced it and the bike ran fine for a little while. But the bike started doing it again. I checked some things out and all the electrical stuff seemed to be in order. I took it to a repair shop and they said the carbs needed a cleaning. It was 2 months before I got the bike back. It seemed to work fine for a while and I didn’t ride it very much for the next few months. Next came a road trip and I put a few hundred miles on it that day. On the way home, the bike started having that same problem again. I checked everything again and found the other old coil ohm readings were off. So I changed it and that same problem came back. It also seemed like the problem was not so much that the bike was running on 2 cylinders, but when riding at lower steady rpm’s the engine would be jerking, kind of like if you would to be twisting the throttle back and forth a little bit. Sometimes it would do it really rough. I also noticed if you would turn the throttle up and turn on the main jets, the bike would feel to be accelerating normally and the jerking would go away. Another thing I began to notice, is if I would ride hard and accelerate hard, the problem would come. For example, after riding hard, coming off the highway and stopping at a traffic light, the bike would stall. When I would start it up, I would have to keep the throttle twisted up a little to keep it from stalling. I decided to bring it to a Suzuki dealer. They synchronized the carbs and the bike seemed to run well. I put it to the test and road it hard on the highway and that problem came back. They said they would have to take the carburetors apart and check or rebuild it. I didn’t let them do it. I just had them cleaned and the cost was very high.
At this point I have to flash back to 1984. In January of that year I just sold my 1982 Suzuki GS 1100 E and bought a new 1984 Red GS1150 ES with 33 Mukuni carbs, Vance & Hines exhaust, high ignition coils, ¼ turn throttle, K&N air filter pods. It ran great. I sold the beat up bike in 1989 when I got married and then bought the blue model in great stock condition in 1993, which I have now with the problem.
I always wanted to put the Vance and Hines exhaust and pods on the blue model and now seemed to be a good time. After thinking that the carbs needed a rebuilding and finding a carb rebuilder on the internet (a guy in Texas) who rebuilds vintage carbs. The price was a lot better then the Suzuki dealer, and the web site seamed to be legitimate, so I decided to mail him the carbs and order the exhaust system and pods and maybe after getting the bike synchronized and jetted, I would be back in the saddle.
To my surprise what suppose to take 2 to 3 months for the carb rebuilding took 5 months, but they looked great. I put all the parts on the bike and took it to a different bike shop that had a Dyno. They put in a stage-3 jet kit and changed the idle jets. It ran great leaving the shop but when I put it to the test on the highway. The problem came back. I stopped by the shop the next day and explained my problem. Their answer was, because I put on the pods and the stage 3 jet kit, this will cause the problem now because it is set up for racing. However wth my red 1150, I never had that problem. I tried to explain that to them but they had no answers. I didn’t go back to them any more because I was upset about the care they took pulling apart and putting back on the carbs while tuning. They never put a blanket or piece of rubber under the carbs and on top of the engine to prevent scratching of the black engine paint.
I’m thinking it’s an electrical problem with the electronic ignition. The transistor unit is expensive and I would like to be sure before I buy it, or at least try all other avenues before I make that purchase. I don’t know how to check the transistor unit. I’m getting the right ohm readings for the signal generator. The coils now always check out good.
Today I started the bike and it sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders. I had to keep the throttle twisted up a little to keep it from stalling. It ran like that for 2 minutes and then something just caught and she was idling fine. It rode good for 20 minutes and the bike started acting up again. Well, that’s it. Can someone please give me some good advice.
Thanks
Sincerely,
Marc
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