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    Now sailing into uncharted waters...

    Well... I have another post here that talks about a couple of broken exhaust bolts. Lots of good advice & I was actually able to remove the one that had about 5/8" of thread sticking out. As suggested here, I banged a socket on it & was able to work it out.

    The other one however snapped flush & I just snapped a screw extractor off in it as well... I knew better than to try that, but it looked like it was going to work, but... .

    So now I have to remove the head & bring it to a machine shop to get drilled out.

    My question is, how hard is it to take the head off?? I have a downloaded service manual but it's a little hard to read. It states both cams have to be removed as well as the cam chain tensioner. It doesn't however, mention anything about the cam chain - do I need to disconnect that as well??

    Are there any special tools needed for this job? It talks about a "special T-wrench" to get to the 10mm nuts down in the pockets - will a socket on a long extension do the trick just as well??

    Any advice for this poor boy will appreciated, I haven't taken one of these off yet so it will be a learning experience for me.

    I am disappointed that I have to remove the carbs & such, I just put them back on after rebuilding them.

    I have yet to even start this bike!! I'm considering just putting the exhaust system back on (minus one mounting bolt on the #2 cylinder) just to see if she even runs - although I don't doubt that she will.


    Sorry for the long post, but I'm discouraged at the moment & wasn't expecting this set-back.

    Oh well...

    Mike
    '85 GS550L - SOLD
    '85 GS550E - SOLD
    '82 GS650GL - SOLD
    '81 GS750L - SOLD
    '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
    '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
    '82 GS1100G - SOLD
    '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

    #2
    Can you get at the bolt to drill it out with the engine in place? The bolts are actually pretty soft...but that screw extractor is not.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Can you get at the bolt to drill it out with the engine in place? The bolts are actually pretty soft...but that screw extractor is not.
      I drilled the bolt to install the extractor - as you noted, it was fairly soft metal & my drill bit easily went into it...

      I was "newly" confident I could remove the broken piece, based on my recent succes with the other broken bolt.

      In retrospect, I shouldn't have tried the extractor - it is VERY hard metal, and I tried to drill through it & I'm starting to make a mess of the hole. Time to stop & re-group & consider other options.
      '85 GS550L - SOLD
      '85 GS550E - SOLD
      '82 GS650GL - SOLD
      '81 GS750L - SOLD
      '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
      '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
      '82 GS1100G - SOLD
      '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

      Comment


        #4
        A Carbide drill will cut into the extractor but Carbide is Brittle, doesn't take much to break it. Your best bet may be to remove the head for a machine shop to deal with.
        sigpic2002 KLR650 Ugly but fun!
        2001 KLR650 too pretty to get dirty

        Life is a balancing act, enjoy every day, "later" will come sooner than you think. Denying yourself joy now betting you will have health and money to enjoy life later is a bad bet.

        Where I've been Riding


        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by marvinsc View Post
          A Carbide drill will cut into the extractor but Carbide is Brittle, doesn't take much to break it. Your best bet may be to remove the head for a machine shop to deal with.
          Maybe I'll try me luck with a few carbide bits - if they break I'm no worse off than i am already.

          Thanks,

          mike
          '85 GS550L - SOLD
          '85 GS550E - SOLD
          '82 GS650GL - SOLD
          '81 GS750L - SOLD
          '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
          '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
          '82 GS1100G - SOLD
          '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

          Comment


            #6
            If you have access to a MIG welder you can tack a small piece of steel bar onto what's left of the bolt (at 45 degrees) and you'll be able to get it out that way.

            Comment


              #7
              Maybe you could try tapping the edges of the extractor with a punch to losen and back it out. I've removed broken carbide bits this way. If it is in to tight, drilling around the edges of the extractor into the softer material can relieve some of the pressure allowing it to losen.

              Comment


                #8
                What will drill into screw extractor metal

                This stuff must be the hardest stuff on the planet... I bought 2 drill bits, one cobalt, the other titanium hardnened & neither even put a mark on this thing!!

                I will give it one more shot before disassembly for a machine shop, it's starting to look really ugly now...

                Any suggestions regarding drill bits ??

                TIA,

                Mike
                '85 GS550L - SOLD
                '85 GS550E - SOLD
                '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                '81 GS750L - SOLD
                '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                Comment


                  #9
                  If you care to try, I may have a way for you to remove the bolt. Yo will need the right tool.

                  These are square shank bolt extractors. They are very hard and tend to break far less than those Harry Homeowner drill type. You will need to have a set of locking type pliers and a steel hammer, claw, ball peen whatever. Soak the bolt with something like PB Blaster and let sit. Tap the bolt a couple times and resoak. Lock the plier onto the extractor and place it as close to the center of whats left of the bolt. Just to the side of the broken extractor would be best. Tap the square extractor the turn it to the left ever so. Keep tapping til you have an indent in the broken bolt. Continue to tap and turn to the left with the extractor. This will take time, its not a microwave fix. With the penetrating oil and tapping, it should release. If you cannot fint this style extractor, an impact driver will work with an extractor bit.

                  Comment

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