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    #1

    Bouncing Ride

    Hello--
    My 1980 GS850GT runs great and is a lot of fun to ride but it bounces up and down all the time. Any bumps in the road cause it to tilt up and down from front to back. Is this something that can be corrected with new springs and shocks. As far as I can tell the shocks are in good shape but I don't know how to check the front springs. Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks--
    Terry
    Tags: None
    #2
    Obviously the first answer is new shocks and a look at the springs up front. New Progressives are around 75 dollars and the rear shocks can be completely replaces for about 120 as well. Not a 5 dollar fix but it will do the trick.

    You can spend 300 on a set of rear shocks. Probably worth every penny but not if you are on a limited budget and have other priorities.
    1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
    1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

    Comment

      #3
      Hey, welcome to the forum!!!!! You might want to check the air pressure in your front shocks (if so equipped) too, and dependent on your weight raise or lower it. On my GS850L, when I'm loaded for touring I keep about 14 psi, otherwise it runs about 10 psi. Too much air pressure can cause that hobby horse ride symptom you describe.

      Comment

        #4
        Constant bouncing, especially at the front, would more likely be a symptom of low oil in the forks.
        With no oil to provide damping, the springs are free to oscillate, being felt as a 'bounce'.

        There is a good chance that the fork oil needs to be changed anyway, so try the 'quick and dirty' method to find out. First, release any air that might be in the forks. Next, open the drain hole at the bottom of the fork leg to drain the oil and also remove the air fittings from the forks. When the oil is drained, put the plug back in, use a syringe to put the correct amount of oil into the forks through the air fitting, put the air fittings back in, go for a ride.

        Be aware that this method does not allow you the opportunity to inspect the slider bushings or change the seals, but will be a quick check to make sure you have a decent amount of fork oil in there.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

        Comment

          #5
          Welcome aboard.

          Do you notice more "action" at the front or back? Its unusual for both "ends" to go wonky at the same time. I'm wondering if you have any dampening in the front forks. Do you know if and when the forks were last serviced and do you know if there is adequate oil in the forks? If there is little or no rebound dampening you will get a lot of bounce.

          You should be able to get an idea which end is acting up by a static test. Get a helper and sit on the bike. Use the helper to steady the bike and push down on the front forks a few times. Is it easy to do? there should be resistance and it shouldn't feel bouncy. Do the same for the back. Does the back end squat a lot when you sit on it? Does it bounce excessively when you bump up and down?

          Depending on what you find if the front end is boucy I'd start by flushing and refilling the oil in the front forks. This procedure should be covered in your manual and or I believe there is a tutorial on BikeCliff's site (along with copies of the manual if so needed). Cliff will be along shortly with your welcome and the appropriate links.

          If its the back end then, a new set of shocks will be in order.

          Do a little testing and let us know what you find before spending the cash.

          Good luck with it.

          Cheers,
          spyug

          Comment

            #6
            OK-- I have done a little more looking into this and tested it the way suggested here.

            When I sit on the bike the rear end sinks about 1.5 inches, as does the front end. When I push down on the handle bars I can easily push down the front end at least 2". I can easily rock the entire bike back and forth like a hobby horse just by pushing down on the front and back alternately. The rear shocks are adjustable and they are set on the lowest notch. That would be the one that is closest to the bottom of the shock. I do have service manuals and have done a lot of work on this bike, but I have never changed the fork oil. I also have never adjusted the rear shocks. Does it give a more solid ride if they are adjusted higher up a couple of notches away from the ground or lower?

            Thanks--
            Terry

            Comment

              #7
              Should have asked you how much you weigh but 1.5" of settle doesn't seem overmuch. I'd try the rears at the highest setting anyway.

              Doing the fork oil change as Steve says is not hard and you should give it a whirl. As he mentions, it is not the correct procedure as the forks should be dissassembled and all sludge cleaned out but it may help.

              Put the bike on the centerstand and weight down the back to raise the front wheel off the ground. You can put a small bottle or screw jack at the front of the engine to help hold it in position and steady it up.

              Now the easiest way to do this is to take off the front wheel and slip a blastic bucket or basin under the forks to catch old oil. Remove the drain screw at the bottom of each fork leg and let the oil drain. I t helps if you remove the threaded caps at the top of the fork but be cautious removing them as remember there is a big spring pushing up on them.

              You can help the flushing of old oil and crud by pouring in some kerosene, naptha or mineral spirits.

              Once the draining has stopped try and "pump' each fork a time or two to force out any residual junk.

              Reinstall the drain screws and referring to the manual for correct fork oil weight and volume, pour in new oil. Reinstall fork caps taking care not to cross the threads ( very fine threads). If your bike has air in the fork system re pump to the presure Duaneage suggested. Reinstall the wheel and retest.

              I'm still thinking like Steve that you've got little or no fork damping in the front end. Do change the oil and let us know what you find.

              Good luck with it.
              Spyug

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by spyug View Post
                As he mentions, it is not the correct procedure as the forks should be dissassembled and all sludge cleaned out but it may help.
                Yeah, I said it would be "quick and dirty", but spending a couple of bucks for some fork oil is a cheap, easy way to see if that's the problem.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
                Siblings and Spouses
                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Steve View Post
                  Constant bouncing, especially at the front, would more likely be a symptom of low oil in the forks.
                  With no oil to provide damping, the springs are free to oscillate, being felt as a 'bounce'.

                  There is a good chance that the fork oil needs to be changed anyway, so try the 'quick and dirty' method to find out. First, release any air that might be in the forks. Next, open the drain hole at the bottom of the fork leg to drain the oil and also remove the air fittings from the forks. When the oil is drained, put the plug back in, use a syringe to put the correct amount of oil into the forks through the air fitting, put the air fittings back in, go for a ride.

                  Be aware that this method does not allow you the opportunity to inspect the slider bushings or change the seals, but will be a quick check to make sure you have a decent amount of fork oil in there.

                  .
                  the forks drain faster if you don't let the air out first. LOL

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Greetings and Salutations!!

                    Hi Mr. ts850gt,

                    I run 15psi in my front forks. I have my rear shocks set at the highest preload. It's not a bad ride but I'd still like it a little firmer. I have suspension upgrades planned very soon. Let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

                    Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

                    Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

                    Thank you for your indulgence,

                    BassCliff

                    Comment

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