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1982 gs850g, spark trouble, please help.

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    1982 gs850g, spark trouble, please help.

    I have been needing help for awhile, and a few of you guys have stated that I am not giving enough info, so I will tell everything I can and hopefully one of you can put the wind back in my hair. I never thought I would say this, but I am starting to miss the rock like feeling of getting blasted in the face by a bug while doing 100 mph.

    OK, here's the deal. This bike is an 82 gs850g shaft drive that has 16,000 original miles. It is electronic ignition, which consists of two pickup coils and a rotor on the crank behind the IGN. cover, and that famous $50,000 ignition module that really does cost more new than most people paid for their entire bike. When it ran, it flew, burned no oil, made no noises. I think it is the only GS in existence that doesn't have noisy cams or valves. Then one day, I lost fire in all cylinders.

    After extensive searching, troubleshooting, and skull scratching, this is what I have accomplished on my path back to the pavement.

    I found that one of the 4 wires that goes to the pickup coils and runs underneath the engine to the ignition module had become wedged, and eventually sliced in half. When I put it back together, I had fire on 1 and 4, but not on 2 or 3. Switched the coils, still fire on 1 and 4, none on 2 and 3. switched the NEGs on the coils, and had fire on 2 and 3, but no longer 1 and 4. Coils tested out fine on a seperate bike as well. I then untaped all the wiring on the whole bike, and checked it very meticulously, made sure there where no bad connections, loose or split wires, or even insulation that had been cut exposing any wiring. After a second check by someone else who found nothing, we retaped it all neatly and as original. I have put on 4 new plugs, a new battery, solenoid, and a NOS ignition switch that I just happened to come across. (Not that I thought any of the previous statement would solve my problem, just did it to eliminate suspicion) I tried testing my ignition module as directed in the Haynes manual, but according to the results of my test, the Haynes manual states I shouldn't have fire at all, but I do, on 1 and 4. And, according to Haynes, to get fire on 1 and 4 in a manipulated way, (the test itself) when I tried it, I got no spark. But, when I hooked it back up to my bike, again I had spark on 1 and 4. Therefore, I think Haynes (whoever that is) can KISS MY NON-MOTORCYCLE RIDING ASS!!!!!!! Also, testing my pickup coils, I have no Idea how, and I don't think Haynes does either.


    Thats pretty much the whole story of my predicament. Now, for all you patient, smart, people out there, who can troubleshoot this reasonably, and most likely better than me (not hard) Do you have any suggestions?

    P.S. If anybody has a CDI box lying around from and 82-83 gs850 - 1100, #32900 49410 or pickup coils for the same, I'll make an offer.
    Oh yeah, when I took it to the dealership, they (quote) "think the cdi box is the problem." How much do they want me to pay them to "think" that? Try about $536.50
    Also, does anybody have any clever retrofitting ideas, or interchangeability info. ANY help,comments,suggestions, advice that doesn't cost $536.50 would be aprewciated more than you know. THANKS for reading all this!!!

    #2
    You can go to a Dyna S ignition for alot less money. It eliminates the ignitor, you don't really have CDI. Yours is an inductive ignition, big difference. As for testing the pickups, signal generators, measure the resistance between the two wires on each pickup. You should get somewhere around 130-200 ohms. If the resistance is infinity or less than spec they are shot.

    If you have four wires on the side of the ignitor closest to the rear of the bike I can tell you how to test it. There would be 4 pins if that's the case on the ignitor where the plug goes to the rear of the bike. The two pins furthest to the rear of the bike will be 1&2 with 1 being the one closest to you. 3&4 are the two pins to the front of the bike with 3 being closest to you. Place plugs 1&2 on the head so they are grounded and still hooked up to there plug wires. With a multitester set at X1ohm connect the + lead of the multitester to pin 2 and - to pin 1. The moment you complete the circuit plug 1 should fire. Then place the + lead on pin 4 and - on pin 3. Plug 2 should fire. If it passes this test the ignitor is fine.

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      #3
      My voltmeter can measure AC volts, DC volts, continuity, and it has a 1.5v tester. Which of these measures resistance, or can it even do that?
      What, if any, is the difference between a voltmeter, an ohmeter, and a multimeter?

      Also, the four wires you are talking about they are blue, green,yellow,and black. On a long shot, do you know which is which?

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        #4
        You need an ohm meter or multitester. You have to test resistance in ohms. A multitester just combines the functions of a voltmeter and ohmmeter.

        For testing the signal generators, pickups, check the green and black together and the blue and yellow together. In other words place one lead of the meter on green and one on the black to check one of the pickups. Then do the same with the blue and yellow. Check the ignitor using the method I described already. The green and black are on pins 1&2 and yellow and blue are on pins 3&4. Pins 1&3 are closest to you as you sit beside the bike and 2&4 are closest to the wheel.

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