Trouble getting cylinder block loose

[tkent02]

Get the whole Suzuki service manual, it's a free download from Basscliff's site.
He has links to most of the GSes.

[RyanBiggs]

Got the manual - now that's what I call helpful advice! Thanks a million tkent and Basscliff!

[RyanBiggs]

Well, with the photo from the manual and a big pry bar, I have the front end of the block loose. Too bad there's not such a good spot to pry on the back, although there are some weaker points. Taking a break to ponder my next move - I could just pry harder but I don't know about that! Maybe I'll try taking the center studs out next, but it really doesn't seem like it's hung up on those - hard to tell though...

[hampshirehog]

It's always worth running 2 nuts on to a stud, tightening them together and then trying to remove the stud. It works occasionally and if you can get just one stud out of the way it all helps.

I also tried my wife's small household steam cleaner on the studs last time to remove the crud. Although I'm not convinced it worked I'm not convinced that it didn't either.

[RyanBiggs]

Another day, another application of brute force. Got the thing loose enough to tell that it is indeed bound up on the aft center two studs now, as predicted! Tried the two nut trick to try and remove the studs, but got nervous when the torque got high enough that things got all bendy and the nut started to get chewed up by the box end. Taking another pondering break...

[Hank.SD]

You could try turning the engine over, the pistons could push it up
Watch out for the crud that will come loose when it comes off, there is usually built up dirt/sand oil that drops into the crankcase when it comes off.

+1. My studs where just packed w/ sand. I don't know how you avoid having some drop into the case. I hope my oil filter does its job.

I swear the PO rode my 1100 at Glamis there was so much sand and oil packed in every nook and crannie.

[RyanBiggs]

Good thing I didn't know what I was getting into when I started this project, or I would have run screaming!

Harbor Freight stud extractor came in the mail yesterday, and I got me a nice can of PB Blaster penetrating catalyst. Gonna give it a shot later this weekend. Yeah, I'm a little leary of debris, but I suppose it's too late to turn back now! There's no oil in the engine at the moment, so maybe I can vacuum most of it up (those of you who have done this before may be laughing at the moment), and I guess it'll be a quick filter change!

I can understand some corrosion, although it's funny it's just the two studs. But how does a bunch of sand get in there?!

Will report back...

[RyanBiggs]

Success! The PB Blaster seemed to do a big part of the job. I broke loose the aft center starboard stud with the extractor, and it jacked the block up as it came out of the case. Now I just have to drift that one stud out as you guys described. Debris didn't look too bad. Will post a photo when I get a chance...

[first timer]

just wondering, since i have been there before with getting the block loose, once it is all back together sans the head, what about squirting some rtv into the stud holes effectivly sealing the stud holes from crud and moisture (aka any non oil passage stud). Another thing i noticed, check the bottom of the block. Suzuki designers machined drain channels in the bottom of those stud bores to let things drain, but in reality the machinist never made the bore big enought to remove the lip that is cast in place. The little lip acts as a damn and doesn't let things drain, take a little chisel/flat head screw driver and clear the drain passage of the remaining lip/dam.