Looking to have my carbs rebuilt

[spchips]

Espescially for those who are not pictorally inclined, having the opportunity to do it once with someone else makes it so much easier the next time.

[RogueZuki]

Anyone have a link to a good valve removal/cleaning guide? I know there's a valve cover on the top of my cylinders but I have no clue what to do from there.

[Nessism]

I totally forgot to ask, the piston looking things on the inside, between the airbox intake and the intake boots, are those to have alternating heights? Mine are both down and only move up and down when I move them.

Do you mean inside the carbs? If so, those are the vacuum slides. They should both look the same height when at rest but should lift easily with your finger and then drop back down in a semi controlled manner when you let them go.

[mike_of_bbg]

You probably don't want to remove your valves, unless you believe there is a problem (like a cracked valve). Servicing the valves involves removing the cylinder head: I dare say a more daunting task than rebuilding carbs. If you have - or can beg or borrow - a compression tester, you can run that test. If you have good compression, there's really no need to mess with the valves themselves.

What you do want to do is check the valve clearances - the slack in the valve train. There's a specified amount of slack which should exist. I'm afraid I'm quite ignorant as to how to do this on the twins. Is yours a two- or four-valve per cyclinder motor?

Check BikeCliff's site for a guide appropriate for your model. Do you have the necessary feeler gauges? A manual for your bike? Carbs off is a nice time to do the valve clearance check and adjustment. Plus both would technically require a carb re-sync - you'll only have to do that once.

[Phaseman]

Ed, you mention having the right tools and that's what scares me.

I don't have a manometer so I've got no way to vaccuum sync the carbs once I'm done.

It looks like all I need is a feeler gauge (or, apparently, even a paper clip) in order to bench sync them, but some of the posts I've read on this site seem to suggest that a bench sync is not a substitute for vaccuum syncing the carbs..

So, am I out of luck? I was laid off two months ago and not really wanting to spend $100 bucks on a manometer unless I really have to.

And I don't know anyone locally who has one I can borrow.. unless there's someone on this forum in the Seattle, Wash. area who'd be willing to help.

Also, in reading the tutorial, it looks like I have to measure the float setting at some point. The manual shows a special tool for this that, when I looked, cost about $40 to buy. Is that tool necessary, or can I just use any old measuring device, like a ruler or tape measure?

Anyway, I have the carbs off the bike, replaced the intake boots, and cleaned the airbox filter (waiting for new boots for the airbox, too) but my carbs are sitting on my bench 'cause I'm not sure if I should proceed without these two speciality tools.

Any suggestions on this?

Thanks

On the manometer...
I rebuilt my carbs about a month ago. This was my first adventure with such a complex process as well, but I commited and it was challenging but HUGELY rewarding.

I researched the manometer situation and built myself a duesy, alas it did not do the trick. I had the apparently common problem of the bike sucking all the fluids out of my home made sync tool.

I ended up getting a single vacuum guage from Harbor for like 7.00. It was very twitchy but with the help of a friend to keep an eye on the guage it worked perfectly. The only note I would add to that would be that it's a bit slower process with one guage so be sure to have a healthy fan blowing on your headers or give the bike frequent breaks to cool down a bit.

RogueZukie, I'm only 3 blocks away and I'll be happy to come over and pat you on the shoulder if you get stressed out or need a hand.

"We can turn this into a monster if we all pull together as a team!" (Pink Floyd)

[RogueZuki]

Ok, was just about to order the Mikuni BS series ('80 and later) carburetor O-ring kits, and noticed that he also stocks the NEW! O-ring kits for the '80 - '82 GS450 twins. My bike is an 83, will these still work or should I stick with getting the first set and adding the intake boot O-rings as well? I've replaced one already as per Phaseman's advice but I haven't even looked at the other one (I know, silly me).

[dickidav]

i have an 83' gs450e and i ordered the 450 kit. i haven't gotten it in the mail yet, should be this week. be VERRY careful in taking out the air screw. i had trouble on two different sets of carbs.

[RogueZuki]

i have an 83' gs450e and i ordered the 450 kit. i haven't gotten it in the mail yet, should be this week. be VERRY careful in taking out the air screw. i had trouble on two different sets of carbs.

what happened? were they stuck or something?

[dickidav]

one on each set was stuck and i stripped the notch. i had to drill one and use a screw extractor to get it out (worked). the first time i went through the rebuild i totally destroyed the hole and screw. thats why i had to buy a set of carbs. learn for others mistakes it will save you $$$$ and alot of headaches. dave
p.s. now i think i could do a rebuild in my sleep.

[RogueZuki]

I'll make sure to use liberal amounts of carb cleaner. does that stuff hurt anything in the carbs?

[dickidav]

no- but the screw is on the outside so use some penitrating fluid and let it soak for a while if they are stuck. make sure to dip the carbs then blast them with air THEN use some carb cleaner. this process will save you time and most importantly $$$$$$$!. also get yourself a jet cleaning kit or make one like the matchstick and wire in the build spec.

[RogueZuki]

Carbs are done!!! There a couple pieces I need, just put up a thread in the wanted section.

I'm in need of the pilot jet plug and the fuel inlet filter on the needle valve seat.

The rebuild wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. Impact drivers are a must have!!