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    Cylinder block install question...

    Since I've never put a cylinder block back on, I was wondering if there's any issues or tips I should know about.

    One thing I wondered: is it advisable to position the pistons in any particular orientation to facilitate the install? Should they all be at the same level or am I overthinking this?

    TIA,

    Mike
    '85 GS550L - SOLD
    '85 GS550E - SOLD
    '82 GS650GL - SOLD
    '81 GS750L - SOLD
    '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
    '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
    '82 GS1100G - SOLD
    '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

    #2
    Hey Mike,

    Are you using anything to compress the rings or you going to use your fingers? If using your fingers it's best to get two pistons up and the others two down. Focus getting the two up pistons inside the cylidner and then work the other two. It's common to do the middle two first but I just finished doing mine and did the outers first.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #3
      I agree with Ed on this. Middle two up, and just to help, Steve and I have both used a couple pieces of 1x4 with notches cut out to slide the conrods thru. This will help wedge them in place and not allow the pistons to wiggle around while you fight with getting the rings pinched down enough to get the bores over. Once you get the first ring on 2 and 3 in, you should be able to tap it a bit, press the second rings in and so on. Go slowly and be sure of what youre doing so that you dont pinch a ring, and try not to spin the rings once you have the ring gaps set up. Its not super hard, but really helps to have a second set of hands if at all possible...Patience and attention and you should knock it out pretty easy.

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks guys - I'm lookin' forward to this operation, I haven't done this yet so a new learning experience is at hand (thanks to Ed's guilt trip ).

        Waiting for my replacement head gasket from the stealer, although I may get the cly block on while I have some wait time.

        TCK - I'm not sure I really understand what the purpose of the notched wood blocks are for, but I suppose I'll know once I'm at that stage & don't have 'em...
        '85 GS550L - SOLD
        '85 GS550E - SOLD
        '82 GS650GL - SOLD
        '81 GS750L - SOLD
        '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
        '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
        '82 GS1100G - SOLD
        '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

        Comment


          #5
          I made the "tools" specified in the Clymer manual. They're 2x7" blocks of inch-thick wood with appx 1x4" slot cut in one of the ends. You slip them under the first two pistons and it keeps them straight and prevents them from sliding down as you push the cylinder block down. I tried without them first, but they made it much easier. Used hose clamps on the first (middle) two pistons as ring compressors, then did the outside with my fingers. Make sure to lightly oil the pistons and rings. Also make sure you don't disturb the oval o-rings.

          Comment

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