Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

A Final Desperate Plea for Help

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Dipped all the carbs for 24 hours, rebuilt them, installed them and now it runs.

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by Uruka View Post
      Dipped all the carbs for 24 hours, rebuilt them, installed them and now it runs.
      Good news. Now you need to do some plug chops to make sure the jetting is not too lean. Lean running can cook your engine so don't take this step lightly.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #18
        It's not lean, there's gas leaking out of the pod filters!

        Originally posted by Nessism View Post
        Good news. Now you need to do some plug chops to make sure the jetting is not too lean. Lean running can cook your engine so don't take this step lightly.

        Comment


          #19
          gas leak?

          Gas leaking out doesn't mean it's rich...it means it's leaking. That should not happen, ever. Eventually you will need to check the plugs to see how it's running. Try this: http://www.dansmc.com/sparkplugs1.htm

          But first stop the leak. You could have a petcock problem or float bowl needle valves not working right. If one of those is stuck open it will leak not only into the pod, but also into the engine. It will also make your bike run like crap. So make it stop leaking before you do anything else. Then fix the rich/lean issue.

          If you were running it without filters you are doing way more than allowing dirty air into the carbs. These things are very dependent on proper air flow to control the mixture. Removing the stock filter requires re-jetting the carb. Running without a filter at all makes a huge difference in mixture. You have to allow for that. Covering the intake with a ruler only simulates the flow restriction an airfilter provides. You really need to jet for the filters and then run with them in place.

          Same goes for changes in the exhaust.

          Comment


            #20
            Just because you have too much gas going the wrong way (through the air filters) does not mean you have enough going the right way (through the jets).

            If you have gas coming through the air filters, you have problems with the float needles. The float level might be off, or the needles are not seating properly on their seats.

            You still need to make sure that the other jets are clear. Nice to hear that you dipped them for 24 hours, but I hope that you then sprayed carb cleaner and compressed air through all the small passages to make sure you get out all the gunk that the dip softened up.

            Stock main jet size is 110. I would imagine that you need to go to something more like a 117.5 or even a 120 for your pods. Do you have a header on it, too? Think about using 125 or so mains.

            .
            sigpic
            mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
            hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
            #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
            #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
            Family Portrait
            Siblings and Spouses
            Mom's first ride
            Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
            (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment


              #21
              You really beed to have the carbs done by somebody. If you have not removed the pilot jets and cleaned them with a thin wire (maybe .002" of an inch) then you'll never get it running right. You floats are either sticking or full of gas. This can happen. Take them off and shake them. If you hear anything, they are no good. www.pdftown.com probably has the .pdf manual for your bike. You need to know how the carbs work before you can clean them correctly, at least it helps. Carbs are the lungs of your bike. They have asthma or bronchitis right now.

              Comment


                #22
                Whoa! Steve, you're suggesting 3-6 sizes up for pods (higher end of this range if upgraded header/exhaust as well)? That sounds like more than I had heard, but you may be right. Not to hijack, but I've been playing with pods on my bike and with mains 2 sizes over stock, my colortune was still showing a bit lean when revving high. I haven't been able to check plugs b/c I blew out an oil seal in the middle of fiddling with the carbs.

                I'd never run the bike without air filters due to the risk of overheating from running lean (dust is a lesser risk to me than seizing).

                Comment


                  #23
                  Allow me to reiterate; I believe the carbs are rich now because the exhaust is smokey. I agree that I should check out the float needles, they're new but they were sitting for a while. I cleaned all of the jets thoroughly with a 24 hour carb dip then I ran a wire through 'em. I have pod filters on now and I increased the main jets from 110 to 115, up two sizes as recommended.

                  I'll fix this leak and do those plug chops.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    did you get new o-rings for it when you did the carbs?

                    Comment


                      #25
                      New o-rings all around.

                      Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
                      did you get new o-rings for it when you did the carbs?

                      Comment


                        #26
                        I built a CB400F with a Yoshima Ontario Motor-tech kit. Hand bent Pipes and custom carbs by Kazio Yoshima (1977). I started at the low end to make sure the bike would roll off the low end smoothly before moving to the top end. I would suggest you do some spark readings at under idle to 3000 RPM's and then do the High End readings to cover all bases. It sounds like your almost there.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Same problem.

                          Do not feel to bad. I have the exact same problem that you do.When I bought mine the PO put 4 into 1 ceramic racing headers on it and pod filters. The carbs look good but they also leak into the filters. Well 2 of them anyway.So far all that I know is the o ring for the petcock is bad. I am about ready to put it back stock. I rode mine around my house with no filters on it a few times. It did ok till you give it gas, then it just boggs out. The PO said he put smaller jets in it but I am sure that he did not know what he was doing so I have learned alot reading this. If I figure anything out I will surely share it. God bless.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Well I can run it around town now, I haven't taken it on the freeway but it putts around the streets nicely. I need to do those plug readings, adjust the valves, and I should probably sync the carbs also. For just a bench syncing though, it runs pretty good.

                            Here's a video of the bike as of today.

                            Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
                            Last edited by Guest; 05-18-2009, 10:15 PM.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X