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    #16
    Originally posted by xxspikexx View Post
    well after a few hours of refitting brackets and what have you. i rigged up my new coils... still the same problem exists.. sparking now like hell on 2&3 and nothing on 1&4.. now i tested the signal gen. like said in the links rusty provided on the other thread.. and now i think threw my own possibly twisted deduction that now it has to be the igniter... does this hypothesis hold water? or is there something else i can check first? or possibly try forcing a spark bypassing the igniter w/o frying anything?
    now im really watching this thread closely!!! as I am thinking about doing the same thing.

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      #17
      How many wires in and out of the igniter?

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        #18
        6 wires total 2 from the signal gen. both negatives for the coils, 1 positive to the starter button/kill switch/coil, and a common negative.

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          #19
          I have two complete ignitions that will work on both of your bikes.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #20
            Here is how to test your ignitor


            Remove each spark plug of #3 and #4 cylinders, fit it
            to the plug caps and place it on the cylinder head.

            Remove the frame cover on the right side and disconnect the lead
            wire from the signal generator.

            Connect + lead of voltmeter (set on ohms) with blue lead
            wire on the ignitor side and - lead on the voltmeter with the green
            lead wire.
            The moment the test pins are connected the spark plug of #4 sparks
            and the moment the tester pins are disconnected the spark plug of
            #3 cylinder sparks.

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              #21
              ok well i have put the new coils on and same problem as b4 everything else checks out im about to take the wire harness apart just to triple check that there are no pinched wires.. the starter button & kill switch is good, coils are good and new, signal gen. tested good. in about to check but all connectors checked good... is there another thing other than the igniter that might be causing the non spark of a brand new coil? also when i tried to test the igniter not using a 1.5v battery with the bike switched on.. the coil that was not firing got a little warm to the touch?? not so hot that you would burn yourself it was just warm and the coil that was firing was cool as ever....
              sounds to me like a bad ground on that coil.. which is the white wire going to the igniter.. im going to check this wire all the way to the plug 4 the igniter to see whats what..

              im just trying to eliminate possibilities before i throw more cash around..
              Last edited by Guest; 05-21-2009, 08:11 AM.

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                #22
                is there anything else i can test or look for while i am there that might cause a coil not to work?? while i am doing the for mentioned?

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                  #23
                  i think i have the problem boiled down with the spark/ignition issue.. ok i tested the hell out of the igniter.. and the wires that go to the coils.. the continuity of both wires that go to the coils was 3ohms.. ok the one that's firing read 12v with the ignition on and the igniter hooked back up the other (left coil) that one i could not get a solid reading of much of anything.. i did that dry cell battery test and the one that fire's did and the other did not (big shock here..) well from all that i think i have deduced that its the igniter..stop me if it all sounds a bit shady or iffy

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