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    #1

    Another Head Gasket Thread :p

    So I think I am getting tired of oil spraying my right boot, and pants, oh and the brake lever... so I should get to fixing the leak.

    It started up this year a bit after I adjusted the shims, I put on a "real gasket" for the valve cover and that isnt leaking and set up fine. Glad I did use that so I dont have to replace it again to go deaper. The leak is coming from the next gasket down right near where the right exhaust pipe attaches.

    I was VERY hesitant to get into the engine at all, but now that I did the shims I think I can go one level deeper.

    Anyways I did my searches and read up what I can, and think I got a manual on the shelf at home, but wanted some good old fashion advice. I read some people using after market gaskets and saying they failed, others say they are fine, so should I just save the risk and get OEM?

    Also it seems I should be able to do this without removing the engine can someone please ease my mind and confirm this? It looks like I will take the carbs off and the headers, but I put new header gaskets in last year and got the new allen bolts with that so should be smooth. The exhaust bolts all look good but read pleanty of people snapping them, should I spray them with anything special before trying? I got WD40, silicone spray, and some of that catalyist stuff required for nearly ever bolt on my rusty truck.

    Oh and will it require a lot of tuning after? That is my biggest concern... I want to order the stuff asap and get it going memorial day weekend so I will be ready to roll for the Catskills trip the next weekend.

    So let the comments fly, all advise is appreciated, for now the boot stays oily.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Sounds like you are talking about the head gasket, but be advised that when you wrrestle the head off, there is a good chance that you will disturb the seal on the base gasket, too. There are probably a few on the board that will say that they got away with it, but they will probably also admit that you should replace the base gasket, too.

    Shouldn't be any "tuning" involved, as nothing will be changed. Can you do it without removing the engine? Probably, but we have no idea what bike you have. There is NO information in your signature or your message about that (hint, hint).

    .
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    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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    Comment

      #3
      Oh good points, so even though I wont need the valve cover gasket I should get a gasket set... and your point on loosening the base when wrestling off the top reminds me how the valve cover came off... guess it is related since the leak started soon after that, i must have loosened the head gasket doing that.

      The bike is a 1983 GS 650 GL

      I probably shouldnt even ask if I could try to tighten the bolts if I loosened the seal when removing the valve cover.

      Comment

        #4
        After doing some more "research" via the search function I think I missed the step of retourqing the head bolts when doing the valve adjustment, and since I didnt have a "measuring shim" and got confused on the feeler gauge being in standard but having a metric conversion I am not entirely sure I did that right anyways.

        I just know they where all tight and moved them down .05 to .10 in size, but have extras and a smaller measuring shim to do it proper this time.

        Speaking of... I believe it is you Mr Steve that has a nice excel sheet to simply my life in figuring out what shims should be in there.

        I will send you a pm with my email address if you would be so kind to share.

        Thanks.

        Comment

          #5
          Only got one reply but for anyone that is curious I started with the similest, and cheapest, solution. I took off the tank, followed the order on the head and tightened the bolts. Some didnt move at all,others near the leak about 1/4 a turn, and a few 1/8 or so a turn. After I did that I took a few mile ride and seems to be good to go.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Skateguy50 View Post
            Only got one reply but for anyone that is curious I started with the similest, and cheapest, solution. I took off the tank, followed the order on the head and tightened the bolts. Some didnt move at all,others near the leak about 1/4 a turn, and a few 1/8 or so a turn. After I did that I took a few mile ride and seems to be good to go.
            Loosen the bolts first and then tourque them down in sequence. (Not all at once but one at a time)
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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