Carb dip assistance

[pdqford]

I have the #1 carb from my 1980 GS750ET ready to go in the dip.

I see that these carbs do not have an air screw adjustment. I'm just wondering, if there is an air screw adjustment under the sealed plug, and if it has an o-ring, will that cause problems when I put the carb body in the dip?

Additionally, I see that the inlet valve seat contans a plastic dohicky that holds a filter screen to the inlet valve seat. Is that filter screen supposed to be removeable, or do I just not dip the inlet valve seat?

(BTW, I've owned this machine for some 27 years and the carbs have never been apart in that time, but they look pretty darn clean inside.)

Thanks in advance for any guidence offered.

[tkent02]

Yes, there is a screw under that plug, yes it has a rubber o ring.
The screen should pop off, but no reason to dip the valve if you can see it is completely clean inside.
Why are you dipping it, is it running incorrectly?

[kparkfan]

yes there is a oring on the screw. you will have to gently remove the plug by drilling it out. also the little screens do come off, but i just left mine on and they survived a 12 hour dip without causing any harm to the screen.

[pdqford]

Why are you dipping it, is it running incorrectly?

Yes, last summer it began idleing inconsistantly and the outside of the carbs were looking ratty with gas stains. When pulling the carbs I think I found most of the idleing problems with a crack in one of the intake boots.

With all the discussions here about how much better they run with freshly dipped carbs, I figured it was time. I am also going to check the valve adjustment since that has never been done, either

[pdqford]

yes there is a oring on the screw. you will have to gently remove the plug by drilling it out.

Okay, I'll try my hand at getting the sealed plugs out. And henceforth, I will be able to adjust the air mixture screw for the best idle?

also the little screens do come off, but i just left mine on and they survived a 12 hour dip without causing any harm to the screen.

I was afraid that I was gonna break the little plastic thing that retains the little screen, so mine will go in the dip also.

Thanks to all for your guidence.

[Nessism]

If the float seat looks clean I'd leave it out of the dip. To remove the pilot screw caps, drill a small hole though the cap but do not drill deeply (just though the cap) or you will hit the screw undernieth. Once you have a hole in the cap, use a sheet metal screw in the screw and pry the cap out.

[zathros]

I don't know about this dipping stuff. I guess if the carb is so clogged and there is no other resolution. I have never dipped a carb. Maybe I was lucky.

I hope people are still checking with carb cleaner, the passages to see if they are clear.

[hikermikem]

I was afraid that I was gonna break the little plastic thing that retains the little screen, so mine will go in the dip also.

Don't put the little plastic screen in the dip - it will eat it.

They just pry off the end of the float seats - a small screwdriver blade should pop it right off. Keep your eye on it though, they tend to fly off to never-never land!!

[Nessism]

I don't know about this dipping stuff. I guess if the carb is so clogged and there is no other resolution. I have never dipped a carb. Maybe I was lucky.

I hope people are still checking with carb cleaner, the passages to see if they are clear.

Go read though the archives and you will fine newbie after newbie that "cleaned the carbs" only to continue to have problems afterwards because they did a half a$$ed job. Another thing people often short cut is unganging the carbs; the O-rings on the interconnect tubes are prone to drying out and cracking. I've done about half a dozen sets of GS carbs and these interconnect O-rings typically crack and crumble as soon as you touch them. If the carbs are free from varnish when the float bowls are removed, you can sometimes get away without dipping, but the carbs should still be unganged and the O-rings changed.

[zathros]

What is being used as the solvent for the dip? I have never had carbs that were that varnished. My bike was parked 18 years and the carbs looked like new inside (not bad outside either). I pickled the bike with Marvel Mystery Oil" so that may have helped. I sprayed my bike with carb cleaner to listen for changes in RPM but had non so they were sealed good. The pilot jets were clogged but I cleaned them and am waiting for the rubber plugs that turned gummy on me. I am interested in the chemical used for dipping as I have a couple of other old vehicles that may need that kind of attention.

I understand the half a$$ed job part, that comes with the territory. I guess 4 cans of carb cleaner could qualify as some kind of chemical dipping.

[pdqford]

What is being used as the solvent for the dip?

I'm using Gunk - "Carburetor & Parts Cleaner"

Carb body #1 and its parts have had their turn in the dip bucket and have been treated to a nice bath it hot soapy dish detergent afterwards. They just finished some time with the air compressor nozzel. All these pieces parts look brandy new!

[zathros]

Thanks for the reply. I just researched some of the other stuff and the chemicals kind of scared me. I have been exposed to many chemicals in my life, especially after working as a machinists for Sikorsky Aircraft for 9 years and other various machine shops. They have a way of catching up with you.

If my carbs end up needing I will start with the Gunk product. Anyone every try using the "Seam Foam" stuff? There some people who really seem to like it.

[slip]

What is being used as the solvent for the dip? I have never had carbs that were that varnished. My bike was parked 18 years and the carbs looked like new inside (not bad outside either). I pickled the bike with Marvel Mystery Oil" so that may have helped. I sprayed my bike with carb cleaner to listen for changes in RPM but had non so they were sealed good. The pilot jets were clogged but I cleaned them and am waiting for the rubber plugs that turned gummy on me. I am interested in the chemical used for dipping as I have a couple of other old vehicles that may need that kind of attention.

I understand the half a$$ed job part, that comes with the territory. I guess 4 cans of carb cleaner could qualify as some kind of chemical dipping.

I picked up the Berrymans Chem Dip from Orielly's. Comes in a gallon can with a mesh basket with a handle. The mesh holes are small enough to put the tiny jet parts in without them falling through. Stuff works great. This is the first time I used it and I am impressed with the results.

[duheme]

If my carbs end up needing I will start with the Gunk product. Anyone every try using the "Seam Foam" stuff? There some people who really seem to like it.

SeaFoam is a good product. But it is basicly an alcohol based solvent cleaner. If you use it, start with a half can per tank full of gas, run that through fairly quicly (like with a week) and then do it again with the other half of a can. BUT if you have e-10 gas in your area I would HIGHLY recommend you not to use it. It, being alcohol based, adds to the alcohol already in the fuel and can wreck havec with the older fuel system on these bike. not to mentiom effectivly "washing" the cylinder walls of the oils.

The product I use with great success is AMSOIL P.I. it has no alcohol in it. You can get it through a local AMSOIL dealer go to www.amsoil.com
In my personal opinion, I think it works better then SeaFoam, Amsoil is also offering a money back Garantee on it. I use 2 oz. per 5 gallons of gas twice a season in my bikes.

Also, if you use either of these product, install a fuel filter in line, They both clean the varnish out of the tanks and the filter is just cheap insurance that no bits get down into the carbs.

[zathros]

I think I'll go with the AMSOIL, the alcohol cleaning the cylinder walls is the last thing I need.