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    #16
    Fuel additives are good if your carbs have fresh O-rings installed, but the bike sat for a while and now runs a little rough. Seafoam and similar are a waste of time though if the carb O-rings are old and hard.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #17
      Originally posted by duheme View Post
      BUT if you have e-10 gas in your area I would HIGHLY recommend you not to use it. It, being alcohol based, adds to the alcohol already in the fuel and can wreck havec with the older fuel system on these bike. not to mentiom effectivly "washing" the cylinder walls of the oils.
      This is the first time I have ever heard any cautions about mixing SeaFoam and E-10 gasoline.

      Believe me, I would have heard it long ago. Besides basically living on this forum, I also participate on a Honda GoldWing forum, Kawasaki Voyager forum and Honda ST1300 forum. All of these forums have many long-distance riders with carefully-formulated opinions on what works best, most of it based on personal experience. Many of them carry either SeaFoam or MMO with them and use it either a small amount every tank or a little more every third or fourth tank, but nobody has ever menitoned any problems mixing it with E-10.

      .
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        #18
        Follow up Question

        I have removed the 'tamper-proof' plugs over the "Idle Mixture Screws". Since these screws are on the top side of the carb, seems to me the opening will fill up with water and 'stuff' and eventually seize the idle mixture screws in place. Those little rubber plugs that cover the pilot jet openings almost fit. I was thinking of putting a dab of clear silicone caulk to cover the idle mixture screw opening.

        What do others use in place of the tamper-proof plugs to keep crud out of the idle mixture screw openings?

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by pdqford View Post
          I have removed the 'tamper-proof' plugs over the "Idle Mixture Screws". Since these screws are on the top side of the carb, seems to me the opening will fill up with water and 'stuff' and eventually seize the idle mixture screws in place. Those little rubber plugs that cover the pilot jet openings almost fit. I was thinking of putting a dab of clear silicone caulk to cover the idle mixture screw opening.

          What do others use in place of the tamper-proof plugs to keep crud out of the idle mixture screw openings?
          Most of us don't put anything over the pilot screw but your concern is valid I think. Personally I think a little grease would be easier to clean up compared to silicone but most likely wouldn't be as effective.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment


            #20
            My idle screws are too tight to try and remove. I am going to have to heat the carb bodies. I may or may not do this, depending how the bike runs. The circuits are clean and gas is blowing out the hole. I'll know in a couple of days.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by zathros View Post
              My idle screws are too tight to try and remove. I am going to have to heat the carb bodies. I may or may not do this, depending how the bike runs. The circuits are clean and gas is blowing out the hole. I'll know in a couple of days.
              You need to take them out and clean them, and replace the o-rings. You shouldn't have to heat the carb bodies up to get them out.

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                #22
                You shouldn't have to do a lot of things, but if your bike is parked for 18 years, there are some things you do (like easily removing idle screws) and some you don't. All passages in the carb are clean, the pilot jets are clean and there is a strong squirt into every venturi (including the idle circuit). I have rebuilt many engines and carbs. If it turns out to need adjusting (everything else is stock), then I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. The screws are frozen. Heating up the area would cause the different rates of expansion of the metals to free up the scew. I don't want to risk that yet. Next week, I might. If heat doesn't work then I will have to drill them out. Since I have a small machine shop this wouldn't be a problem but would be a pain in the a$$.

                I have seen many people play with idle mixture screws when the problem was elsewhere, but, if they came out easily I would do it.

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                  #23
                  All idle screws are frozen. They are not leaking, but they are frozen. I removed the last 3 plugs since the last post. I am going to remount the carbs and pray the bike runs the same as it did. If it doesn't, well, that just will plain suck. I can easily blow carb cleaner through all four idle circuits (1 per carb, I mean) so they not clogged, I hope it all balances out, but then again, I suffer from Murphy's law.

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