Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Armor All etc. - opinions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Armor All etc. - opinions

    Greetings all,

    I just got back from my local dealer with the news that I need to replace both my tires - only three years old and full of tread, but cracked down to the chord in the sidewalls. The folks there tell me a major contributing factor to this early deterioration is the fact that I'm not able to park and/or store the bike inside. (It's always covered, but always outside.)

    I asked for their professional opinion about whether the various 'protectant' products like Armor All would be of any use in preserving the rubber, since the anecdotal information I've received over the years went in both directions - some saying it helped, others saying it actually sped up the cracking. Unfortunatley, the people at the shop had the same mixed bag of information that I did, so if anyone out there has a definite view about the value of this type of product -or any other hints on making my overexposed sidewalls last at least as long as the treads- I'd greatly appreciate the information.

    Thanks,

    #2
    Years ago when we picked up a new Nissan Altima for my wife the dealer warned us about using Armor-All on the dash and other plastic parts. They said it does cause deterioration. There are tire specific products you can get, just keep it on the sidewalls and off the tread areas. I don't use anything on mine and they hold up very well. A good bike cover will help protect the tires from the elements to some degree.

    Comment


      #3
      I remember reading an article on this subject. Armor-All actually will accelerate deterioration of plastic, rubber, and leather because it will cause them to dry out. STP's Son of a Gun has a completely different formula and is suppose to prevent this.

      That article was written many years ago (15 years +) so Armor-All may have reformulated since then.

      Hap

      Comment


        #4
        Try using just normal boot polish on the tyres and for the dash in your car use normal furniture polish

        Comment


          #5
          I have found over the years that the best product for the protection of rubber components is cheap. A can of silcone lubricant spray will keep rubber pliable and prevent the cracking from oxidation of the rubber caused by the acids that are present in the atmosphere. The silcone bonds with the rubber and you only have to use it like once a year on the rubber you apply it to. Have used it for years on motorcycle tires, rubber seals around car doors etc. Like everyone here said though, don't put it on the treads themselves because as you know silcone is slippery and that is the last thing you want on the tread of your tires.

          Comment


            #6
            Sunshine

            UV rays from the sun cause considerable damage to many components on motorcycles.....they will also ruin your skin while you're riding down the road. They will rot the fabric on your furniture, fade your artwork and ruin the finish on your dining room table....in short, UV rays wreak all kinds of havoc.

            Armor All, Formula 2001 and all that other stuff contain a sun blocking agent which is similar to sunscreen....that, alone, is reason enough for me to use it. I think it works great!

            Also, in our litigious society, I can't imagine they would sell the stuff if it could be proven that it would damage the materials it's designed to protect. :roll:

            1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

            Comment


              #7
              My understanding is this... I haven't done much chemistry in the last couple of years, so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

              The molecules which make up the rubber in your tire form fairly long chains. Products like Armor All are made up mostly of fairly short-chain molecules, and stuff which isn't a polymer at all, which gives them a little bit of penetrating power. The problem is that these smaller molecules tend to come out of the tire faster than the long chains.

              Over time, using Armor All, some of the long-chain molecules which were originally in the tire are replaced by shorter chains, which need to be "refreshed" more often than the original, longer, chains did. This means once you start using Armor All, you need to keep using it, otherwise the product itself will dry out the tire over time.

              Another poster mentioned that these products also contain some sort of "sunscreen", which may offset the damage which is done by the short chain molecules. This isn't something I've really considered before, and I don't know enough about the products to say which effect is stronger. But I'd say if your bike is parked outside, the sunscreen is probably more important, so Armor All might be a good idea. If it's parked inside, and you just want to keep things looking shiny, soapy water is probably better.

              Michael

              Comment


                #8
                Now THAT'S specific! Thanks all for the information, and now I have a follow-up. (Perhaps I should post this seperately, but I'll see what I get here first...)

                Just got home with the new rubber, and as a matter of routine operation, checked the tire pressures once they were cold. They were at the sidewall-posted maximun of 41 psi.

                If memory serves, it's fairly common practice to 'over' inflate tires during installation in order to force them to seat properly (these are tube-types -Bridgestone S11s- for a 1980 GS400E) but the manual calls for 24F/28R (city) 28F/32R (hwy), and mechanics have told me that I should just keep both tires at 32 all the time - which I had been doing on the previous set.

                So, to once again go to the source, what do you do - full listed pressure? Bike Manufacturer's specs? or somewhere in between?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Your manual is giving a setting for the OEM tires installed at the factory.
                  It may also give different settings for loads.
                  The tire manufacturer gives you a setting they believe their tire will give it's best performance. 41psi is a little on the hard side. Try the 32psi the mechanic advised, how's it handle? How's the braking? Try a swerve, at reasonable speed. Now try it at 41psi. What's the difference?

                  Remember the psi rating is while the tires are cold.

                  How's the beautiful city of Halifax?
                  My family is from New Brunswick, Fredericton and Moncton.
                  Maybe next year I'll be able to ride up there again.

                  Keith
                  Keith
                  -------------------------------------------
                  1980 GS1000S, blue and white
                  2015Triumph Trophy SE

                  Ever notice you never see a motorcycle parked in front of a psychiatrist office?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    "How's the beautiful city of Halifax?
                    My family is from New Brunswick, Fredericton and Moncton.
                    Maybe next year I'll be able to ride up there again."


                    Hot. 30 degrees Centigrade (about 85F) and humid. (I spent a few childhood years in Fredericton and Saint John, myself.) And, next time you DO make it back to NS, the provincial tourism department is publishing motorcycle guides in addition to the regular tour guides now. No REAL advantage in information that I noticed, but the two-wheel guide does have ads from local bike dealers (useful if you need unexpected service) and takes up less room in a tank bag. You can get free copies at http://www.novascotia.com/ride/.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The 41 psi (cold) is the max safe pressure for that tire. The factory pressure specs is a compromise between best performance and smoothest ride, for the tires that were on it then. Tires have changed a lot over the years, so it is up to you to decide what is the best ride.

                      I would not go more than 10 psi less than what is on the tire. Lower than this will cause exessive tire wear and sidewall flex ( unless you are drag racing)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Dunlop

                        In answer to the original post, I just looked at Dunlop's website and they recommended that we never put any 'protectant' on our tires......just soap and water
                        1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Michael's idea of the silicone application is good for almost all rubber, whether on bikes or cars.

                          Use it sparingly, and, if using it on your tires, never spray it directly on the tire. Pour or spray it liberally on a cloth, then wipe the tire sidewall with the cloth. Do this in the evening, and wipe down the tires with a clean cloth in the morning.

                          DO NOT PUT ANY ON THE TREAD!


                          Regardless of the legalities Armorall may (or may not) be getting away with, the stuff will destroy almost any rubber or plastic product.

                          It looks good at first, seems to work well too, but it has a very strong tendency to harden the surface so that it cracks instead of flexing normally. The is precisely the opposite effect that you want from your tires. Continued applications will penetrate farther and speed up the deterioration.
                          Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I had the same problem on my last two sets of tires, both pairs had to be replaced because the sidewalls cracked and way before the tread was worn. My bike is stored in an unheated garage and the winters do get cold here. I don't think it has anything to do with Armour All, I discovered that it was the tires, major name brand but both sets cracked after two years, lousy quality rubber is what I called it. I switched brands to Dunlop and haven't had a problem since, my existing tires have no signs of cracks and are 4 years old.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              One suggestion I gleaned from a series of articles written by an auto detailer is to use natural-oil based cleaners on plastic and rubber that will be exposed to the sun. The "orange" cleaners were recommended, and work well for me. The natural oils help maintain the "moisture" content of the rubber and plastic, thus delaying cracking and crazing.

                              Avoidance of Armor All and the like was also suggested (strongly) due to its propensity to leach out the natural oils, and accelerating deterioration, according to this same person.

                              When Armor All was new (do I date myself here?) I used it on tires or trim on my car and my GT750. I'd come home from a drive, and all that I had cleaned and shined was now brown with grime. I stopped using it shortly thereafter.

                              I'd second the use of silicone on a rag for protection, and use of a natural oil cleaner on the rubber and plastic at bath time.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X