Petcock spring and base gasket questions

[scottsgs]

Hi all,

First questions is; has anyone had to make a replacement spring for the petcock on a GS850G? I some how lost mine when I took the damn thing apart. I have not been able to find a replacement anywhere.

Second question; does anyone have any tips for me to make the 3rd base gasket install more of a success? I plan on checking the surfaces very carefully this time. I plan on torquing the head bolts in increments of 3ft\lbs starting at 27 and ending at 33. Does oil make the base gasket swell?

Thanks,
Scott

[Steve]

Never had to make a spring, I guess I have just been lucky enough to not lose one.

I plan on torquing the head bolts in increments of 3ft\lbs starting at 27 and ending at 33.

Please change your plans.

The manual calls for tightening to 27, so start with 15 or 18, then increase to 27.
If you start at 27 and go to 33, you will be over-torquing the head.

.

[Dave8338]

Never had to make a spring, I guess I have just been lucky enough to not lose one.



Please change your plans.

The manual calls for tightening to 27, so start with 15 or 18, then increase to 27.
If you start at 27 and go to 33, you will be over-torquing the head.

.

...and run the risk of stretching a bolt or three OR pull a few threads right out of the block!

[scottsgs]

my Clymer manual has a section of updates in the back. It says 25-29lb/ft for the cylinder head nuts.

Scott

[reddirtrider]

So, 27 is the mid point. Torque wrenches are approximate and you really don't want, or need to over torgue bolts.

[george.361]

Scott,

My petcock spring broke. I went out to the hardware store and bought a spring that looked about the same as what I had. Just keep in mind that you want the spring to be stiff enough to close the petcock and not so stiff that the vacuum can not open the petcock. I got a spring that was too stiff so fuel only flowed on prime. I guess I will have to continue playing around with it. If you find anything let me know.

[silverhorse47]

Re: torque: torque is actually very specific. However, it relies on two things. First is cleanliness. Second is technique. When a torque is described as say #27, what this means is that the surfaces being connected are clean and that they mate accurately. (no old gasket, paint, dirt, rough edges from gouging etc.) 'Surfaces' does not only mean the flat parts you think you're joining. It also (more importantly) means the internal threads, the bottom of the bolt holes, and the threads of the bolts. When one puts a torque wrench on a bolt, tightens in the correct pattern, and pays attention, what one is feeling for is the point at which, first, the surfaces connect with the gasket, and second, when the external thread on each bolt begins to stretch against the cam of the internal thread.
It is all very simple if things are clean. If things are not perfectly clean and new, though, pay attention. Tighten it to where you think it is right, then back it off a bit, and run through the pattern again. You are compressing many things at one time with a head. Some things take time to attenuate the new tensions. Time spent here is money in the bank re longevity. There is a definite sense of 'this is tight' when a part is correctly tightened. If you don't have it...do it again.
If you are installing a third base gasket with no success, and have been average careful with your technique, I would really suspect a problem with warping or some such problem. I personally would eat crow and go to my friendly machine shop and ask them to mic the parts and show me the error of my ways.
Regarding the spring, any old one will do, as long as the length, diameter, and tension are correct.
I hope this helps.
S.