First Timer Guidance

[crash-harris]

If it's needed then I'll weld one in or I may just have to make all new exhuast and reuse the flanges that attach to the engine. I think Richharr is going true dual with his chopper build though which is what made me question the H-pipe's importance.

[TheCafeKid]

Hopefully someone else will chime in on this one, but I believe that the cross pipe is important in helping maintain proper pressure equalization between cylinders? If so just eliminating the connection may not be the best choice?

Supposedly, that crossover pipe was put in by Zook to create even scavanging and backpressure...etc. Technical crap that im not qualified to explain..The EARLY models of GSs didnt have them to begin with. I prefer the sound of THOSE pipes over the ones with the crossover. Its a smoother whoooosh rather than that slightly motorboat-ish putter... They all have a pretty good throaty growl to them for stock pipes tho.. So, in short, its not going to make much of a noticable difference if you DONT use the pipes with the crossover...

[crash-harris]

Cool. I know that with autos and such the H and X pipe setup has normally been used to quiet the exhuast using the excuse of backpressure (the great exhaust myth). Scavanging and exhaust velocity are the 2 that together make things good. I think the H-pipe design actually hinders exhust velocity.

On the Dynojet kits, for running straight pipes and pods would I need the "SUZ 83 GS450 STANDARD FLOAT" kit? for stages it says 1&3. And what all is included in the kit?

[chef1366]

Cool. I know that with autos and such the H and X pipe setup has normally been used to quiet the exhuast using the excuse of backpressure (the great exhaust myth). Scavanging and exhaust velocity are the 2 that together make things good. I think the H-pipe design actually hinders exhust velocity.

On the Dynojet kits, for running straight pipes and pods would I need the "SUZ 83 GS450 STANDARD FLOAT" kit? for stages it says 1&3. And what all is included in the kit?

That's the one

[crash-harris]

Awesome. So now I've found it, what all is in it? Jets of course, but primaries and secondaries or more?

As for an update, I got the key late tonight and hooked the battery charger up to the battery leads on the bike. First key turn, red light on dash comes on, headlight flikered when I hit the seat. Found a loose ground wire under there and grounded it, headlight on all the time. Jimmied the turn signal switch and found out which rear light is which, but they don't blink nor do they turn on with the headlight. When I light one of the rear turn lamps a yellow light on the dash appears. Horn works too. Turned the key to the last position and everything turns off. Starter button does absolutely nothing (in any gear) and nothing works with the key turned all the way. Suggestions?

[chef1366]

Pull the clutch in and see if that gets things going. Safety switch wired into the clutch.
The Dyno kits come with jets and needles. Also drill bits to drill the slides and to get the idle screw cap off.

[crash-harris]

I'll do that. I actual was doing that when I was trying to see if the starter would turn over, but I realized that earlier today I had disconnected the clutch. I took off the plate where the shifter is so I could get to the wiring when I go to dismount the engine.

[errorcauser]

It's north or Waverly on 23, called Sharp's. I'm not really sure if it's still open or not but I'm going to check and see sometime this weekend.

I think i remember seeing that place, but it's sure been awhile. If it's right off 23 (can see it from the highway) then i know i've seen it.

I'd forgoten about it though. Been a long time since i was through there.

[crash-harris]

Yep, that's the one. My brother says it looks like it's closed from the highway, but I believe that there is another yard just behind it that you can't see from the highway that still has bikes in it. I'll report back on whether it's still open or not after I check it out this weekend.

[crash-harris]

Instead of using 2 open element filters, would it be a bad idea to feed both carbs from a single 3" filter?

[crash-harris]

Just tried to roll the engine over again with the clutch linkage hooked back up. This safety switch is connected to the underside if the clutch lever on the handlebars isn't it? Should there be a little metal contact dowel or pin that slides over the rails on the sensor when you move the clutch lever? The sensor wasn't hooked up when I got the bike, nor are there any screws for it or anything to contact it between the sensor and the clutch lever. Also, the metal rod that runs into the tranny from the other end of the clutch linkage had broken before and was JB welded together (and it broke today...). Would that have anything to do with it? I'm going to try to find one in the JY.

[crash-harris]

...Bump...

[crash-harris]

I got the engine to turn over


But in doing this I realized that I'm going to have to replace the clutch safety switch since no matter what I did to it, it wouldn't allow the motor to crank. 40 amps (+) direct to the starter makes it roll over more than fast enough to get the bike started (later on).

Before I got it cranking, I removed the headlight and looked at the rat's nest of wires behind it. There is a clip that has 2 brown wires on it that's not connected to anything and the hot waires for the front turn signals have been cut. Could this recoptor woth the 2 brown wires have anything to do with the clutch safety switch?

Also, looks like Sharp's junkyard is still open. Sign reads Tues.-Sat. 9:30am - 5:00pm