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Running Lean on 2 cylinders, and running hot

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    #16
    If you have a radio shack in the area buy the small assorted washers.

    The Resistor plugs are gold at the threads so I don't think you have color all the way up. Now I'm not sure if anything I've told you is correct.

    Run the stock plugs. I'd up the main one step and shim the needle if you are running lean. Sometimes just the increase at the main will take care of the lean issue alone.
    If your bike is Canadian you should have a needle with notches already so you shouldn't need the washers.
    Last edited by chef1366; 05-26-2009, 12:22 AM.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #17
      I will pull the tops off the carbs sometime in the next week, and see if I have the adjustable needles or not....

      Duro

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        #18
        When I was driving home on monday night after work, I had to hit WOT to pass someone, and I noticed it was black smoke behind me thorugh his headlights.....so this leads me to believe the main jet is big enough, as I am going extemely rich at WOT (power enrichment mode). So this would also lead me towards the needles being alittle low for a mid range cruise 5000rpm low throttle

        Does this make any sense to anyone..

        Duro

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          #19
          If you were blowing fuel smoke on WOT you should show more color on the plugs. Now I'm confused.
          Try shimming the needles. What do you have to lose?

          On the lean cylinders you may have a leak on a manifold or the float heigth may be off.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #20
            Well I guess it's because I very rarely hit near WOT, I mostly don't rev it over 5000rpm max, I am very easy on my stuff, and don't rev it to high. So I am mostly in low to mid throttle, and have only hit WOT once in the past 3 months I have owned the bike

            I dunno Just me I guess, I am like this on everything I own, except for my Seadoo...thats pegged all the time, and the fuel bill shows this aswell

            Duro

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              #21
              Well I finnally got a chance to raise the needles 1 clip notch (gotta love canadian bikes), had to get the vise grips on a few screws. I can't believe I was getting nervious about doing it, it was a piece of cake.....

              Now after this I have much better throttle response, and it did cool the motor abit, but on long rides more than 50km the bike still gets pretty warm on a 24 degree day it's around 150 degrees celcius.

              I am getting sick of guessing, and dredding pulling the carbs, so it's at the shop getting fork seals, and there gunna put the bike on the dyno, and fuel analizer, and see what it's doing.....I should hear early next week whats going on. It was only an extra $100 to pay someone to do the seals, and I get a warentee aswell....warentee is worth something I guess

              Thanks
              Cameron

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