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I just recently bought an 82 450TX. The engine has 3000 miles on it and it sat around for 1/2 its like in a garage. My friend started trying to fix it up about a year ago but is going off to college and sold it to me. It runs ok right now, starts right up, etc. But there are some problems I have noticed. The first thing is the mixture. I have Mikuni Carbs which were just recently rebuilt. He added K&N pods to them and had to up the jets. I talked to a guy at Bates and he said normal jet increase is 15%, which would put me around 140, stock was 120. But my friend had to jet up to 200, and its still lean, but nothing too bad. Just today I decided to take a look at the plugs and they are semi white. I was thinking about why this would happen and I read that it could be the fuel line. But Im positive there is a 1/4 line on it so I don't think that's it. But I noticed that the valve for Primary and Reserve was on Primary and no "ON." So I turned it to ON. I took it for a spin and it seemed to run a little better. At first, I had a sluggish acceleration up until 3000k, and I don't think my Tach it working right b/c I seem to redline at around 6500-7000. The Tach says 9500. But at 3000k, if I had it full throttle I would take off like I had a turbo charger on the thing. And as long as i kept the RPMs high i would keep the awesome acceleration. But if I let off during shifting it would be sluggish till 3k again. Why is this? 2nd. Shifting is a problem when it warms up. It gets harder to shift when ive been running it a while. Sometimes i cant get it from 2nd to N or 1st. I mean eventually i can after F'n with it for a sec. But i find that odd. 3rd. My left cylinder seems to be running a little warmer then the right. No clue what that is. 4th. After running it semi-hard or running it for a long time, a smokey gas comes from the breather pipe. Is it smoke or condensation? And it gets sucked right back into the pods. Is that a bad thing? Also when im going through the gears after its running warm, the RPM's seem to hang a sec before they come back down when i pull the clutch. It also does it when im reving it up, they will hang then fall. The last engine thing is the popping when i decelerate. But not just when i decelerate, also when the RPM's are coming down. Like after reving. I think thats just timing but who knows. I haven't calibrated anything or adjusted anything since ive had the thing. Can anyone help?
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Uhhh, huhh huh huh
200 main jet sounds WAY too big. Is it possible that your friend just replaced the main and not the pilot or needles? If so it could still be running lean every where except at FULL throttle (where the main takes over).
If you've been running on prime, this could be your problem. The hole in the petcock for the "prime" position is only about half the size of the "on" position.
Cranckcase fumes are not cause for alarm. And the fact that the bike is rebreathing them is not a problem either. Thats what happened in the stock airbox anyway....
Shifting into neutral shouldn't be too difficult. Have you changed the oil? Oil quality is very important on these (and most all) motorcycles. Your clutch and transmission gears share the oil with the motor. The first sign that you need a change is hard shifting. I change oil and filter about every 1000 miles. If you have changed the oil, then adjust your clutch cable. You may not be completely disengaging the clutch with the lever pulled in all the way.
The fact that you lose power at 6500-7000 rpm tells me that the main jet is way too big. Thats when the main starts to kick in. You're flooding out when the main starts to meter the fuel flow. From 3000 to 7000 your running fine because this is the area that is metered by the needle "with help from the main". Meaning that both the needle and the main contribute to fuel flow. The needle is too lean but the main is too rich so they kinda cancel out. However this will not allow you to ride the bike normally in traffic, cuz you still need to start and stop smoothly in the real world.
print this out and keep it handy while you jet the bike properly. It is priceless information
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yessss
thanks a bunch, thats makes perfect sense. Now i just need to figure out how to change out all those other things. But im sure ill figure it out.Comment
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No problem, just ask anything. This board is full of GS knowledge.....Comment
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Front Shocks
Is it hard to rebuild, or have someone rebuild the front shocks. They are leaking pretty bad. And do they still make after market rear shocks for my 82 450?Comment
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No and yes.....Clear as mud?
The front forks are relatively easy to rebuild yourself. Get a haynes or suzuki manuel and read through the process. It basically involves taking apart the forks, cleaning everthing, replacing one or three things, and filling back up with the proper amount of oil.
It will cost you an arm and a leg at the dealer. They're not really gouging you, its just that it takes some time to complete. And that costs money....
Progressive suspension makes some real nice rear shocks. And recently someone here posted a link to Ikon suspension who bought the rights to continue making Koni shocks. The quality is supposed to be on par with the original KoniComment
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