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anti-dive brake bleeding

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    anti-dive brake bleeding

    The Suzuki manual states that is you still have a spongy feeling after several brake bleeding attempts it may be necessary to remove the anti-dive modulator and tip it upwards to get rid of any trapped air. If you do that, won't the front forks loose oil through those 2 ports?

    Has anyone tried this?

    I've rebuilt the master cylinder, both front brakes, the forks, installed braided steel brake lines and it's an '83 GS750ES.

    #2
    Remove the vertical bolts on the anti-dive and it will separate into 2 pieces without any fluid / oil loss. Then you can lift the upper part to straighten out the brake line.

    Either that or use a syringe to bleed the system (I prefer the syringe).
    Current:
    Z1300A5 Locomotive (swapped my Intruder for it), GS450 Cafe Project (might never finish it....), XT500 Commuter (I know - it's a Yamaha :eek:)

    Past:
    VL1500 Intruder (swapped for Z1300), ZX9R Streetfighter (lets face it - too fast....), 1984 GSX750EF, 1984 GSX1100EF (AKA GS1150)
    And a bunch of other crap Yamahas....

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      #3
      Originally posted by hillsy View Post
      Remove the vertical bolts on the anti-dive and it will separate into 2 pieces without any fluid / oil loss. Then you can lift the upper part to straighten out the brake line.

      Either that or use a syringe to bleed the system (I prefer the syringe).
      I've been using a vacuum bleeder with limited results. Thanks for the info on the vertical bolts. I'll try that and let you know what happens.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by hillsy View Post
        Remove the vertical bolts on the anti-dive and it will separate into 2 pieces without any fluid / oil loss. Then you can lift the upper part to straighten out the brake line.

        Either that or use a syringe to bleed the system (I prefer the syringe).
        I remove the bolts, put the anit-dive vertical, and bled the system twice. It's good to go. Thanks for the tip.

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