Can't remove front wheel on my 1979 GS750

[Nihilation]

My bike is a 79 GS750 with the forward mounted axle or whatever it's called and dual disk brakes up front. The front tire is dry rotted bad so I don't want to risk riding it to the closest shop to have the tire replaced. So I followed the instructions in my Clymer's manual to remove the front wheel and the axle bolt isn't budging. I removed the cotter pin, removed the nut, loosened the fork clamp on that side. On the opposite side I disconnected the speedometer cable.

Anyway, I tapped on the end of the bolt with a rubber mallet pretty hard and that sumbish' isn't moving at all. I'm fearful of hitting it any harder as I may mushroom the bolt, destroying the threads, etc.

Any ideas? Am I missing something that isn't explained in the Clymer's?

[ryonker]

Spray it with pb blaster. Isn't there a hole through one of the sides that you can put a small screw driver through to spin the axle and help lossen it up?

Rick

[cloudbreakmd]

You loosened the pinch bolts right?

[Nihilation]

You loosened the pinch bolts right?

If that's the small bolt on the right side (same side as the nut/cotter pin), then yes. There was no pinch bolt on the left side (side of the speedo).

[Larry D]

As mentioned, spary with some PB Blaster for a day or so.....I put the nut back on enough to protect the threads of the bolt and hit it with a four pound hammer.....it came right out.

[tkent02]

I have one stuck in a similar way, on an 1100E with a leading axle. Twelve pound sledge did not persuade it at all, not any movement whatsoever. Used a lot of PB Blaster and a lot of heat, modified a socket to fit over a bolt through the axle hole, the axle can now be forced to turn in the left fork, maybe 100 ft pounds of torque to turn it. No way will it slide out. This bike sat unused for 23 years, the spacer on the right side is rusted solid to the axle. I took the forks off the bike, the right fork leg twisted right off. Planning on drilling the head off the axle, pulling the left fork leg off the left side, hopefully the wheel bearings will slide off of the axle to the left. If not, at least I have the forks free, I can find a wheel and an axle someplace.

[DanTheMan]

When you hit the axle shaft with a hammer, use two hammers. One should be a medium weight ball peen or sledge held against the nut screwed on the threads (far enough so the threads won't mushroom), the other should be used to provide the force to drive the axle out. Once you have the axle flush with the fork, then use a bolt or preferably a large piece of brass rod to drive it the rest of the way out. Keep your washers in order when you do it.

[Nihilation]

Assuming I can't get this wheel off or damage something in the process, are there other complete front suspension assemblies that will simply bolt right on that would be an upgrade to the front suspension/brakes/wheel?

[Don-lo]

Put the axle nut on BACKWARDS to protect the threads as well as the nut cutouts. Heat the fork bottom, if you want, then hit it hard.

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Nihilation,

There's a tire change tutorial on my website that includes a procedure for removing the front wheel. CLICK HERE to download the PDF file. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff