Hey guys, just picked up an 82 GS650L, have some questions

[AudiA4_20T]

Ok can I leave the air screws in 2 of them? Im kind of confused of what it does and honestly they are stripped in there. I tried to drill it out but I think it did more harm than good. Would it be good to get 2 more carbs?

[AudiA4_20T]

can someone offer any insight to the air screw? Thanks

[almarconi]

The air screw as you call it is the commonly called a mixture screw. It adjusts the amount of fuel into the pilot circuit. In order to properly clean the carbs, all the jets and mixture screw should be removed. The best way to remove the stuck screws is with PB blaster, heat and a good fitting screwdriver. If you can't get them out and you damaged the carb body trying to remove them, then its time to start looking for a spare rack of carbs. You could try drilling out the stuck jet or screw with a left hand drill bit but it is probably easier to just replace the carb body,

[AudiA4_20T]

Alrite, started getting back into it here... It's been awhile! I'll have pics of the paint work I'm doing to the gas tank and side covers. I went with gloss black because its easy and cheap.

Started putting the carbs on today but didn't finish. I got the choke bracket and throttle hooked up though. A few more questions

1. The vents in between carbs 1&2 and 3&4, nothing attaches to them right?

2. What are the tiny o-rings for? (they're a clear tan color and I can't imagine what they fit over.

[Steve]

The vents should have tubes attached to them that reach back over the airbox and attach to nothing.
There are some that say if you have pods and a pipe on the bike, you should remove the tubes and just leave the nipples open, but the logic on that still escapes me.


Where did you get the "tiny o-rings"? Did they come in a kit with something else?
There are some very small o-rings that go on the mixture screws.


When dipping the carbs, those mixture screws need to be removed. If the slot has been buggered up and you can't turn the screw, use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut a slot down the length of the tower that holds the screw and cut a fresh slot in the top of the screw. Done carefully, this works quite well.

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[AudiA4_20T]

The vents should have tubes attached to them that reach back over the airbox and attach to nothing.
There are some that say if you have pods and a pipe on the bike, you should remove the tubes and just leave the nipples open, but the logic on that still escapes me.


Where did you get the "tiny o-rings"? Did they come in a kit with something else?
There are some very small o-rings that go on the mixture screws.


When dipping the carbs, those mixture screws need to be removed. If the slot has been buggered up and you can't turn the screw, use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to cut a slot down the length of the tower that holds the screw and cut a fresh slot in the top of the screw. Done carefully, this works quite well.

.

Hey Steve thanks for the help! I got a Cycleorings kit and a Z1 kit, and I got the carbs rebuilt by a guy named Bill on here, fantastic guy to deal with. I vaguely remember him saying something about having extras, so I figured these were them.

Anyway, if the vents have hoses that go to nothing, why is it a big deal to leave them open? I'm not questioning authority, just curious.

[Fenixgoon]

Hey Steve thanks for the help! I got a Cycleorings kit and a Z1 kit, and I got the carbs rebuilt by a guy named Bill on here, fantastic guy to deal with. I vaguely remember him saying something about having extras, so I figured these were them.

Anyway, if the vents have hoses that go to nothing, why is it a big deal to leave them open? I'm not questioning authority, just curious.

I vaguely remember something about the vent hoses keeping the air flow around the carbs and airbox relatively smooth (laminar). Seeing as i'm not well versed in fluid mechanics, I really can't say one way or another.

I hope to have my bike up in the coming weeks. we should do a MD meet! College Park is only about an hour from where I live.

[AudiA4_20T]

I vaguely remember something about the vent hoses keeping the air flow around the carbs and airbox relatively smooth (laminar). Seeing as i'm not well versed in fluid mechanics, I really can't say one way or another.

I hope to have my bike up in the coming weeks. we should do a MD meet! College Park is only about an hour from where I live.

Absolutely man. Are you good with this stuff? Bikes are so simple but so confusing to me haha. I wouldn't mind paying you a few bucks to come up if I get stuck here...

[mike_of_bbg]

Anyway, if the vents have hoses that go to nothing, why is it a big deal to leave them open? I'm not questioning authority, just curious.

Those vents are the atmospheric reference for your carbs. It is in part the Venturi effect which creates a sub-atmospheric pressure in the carbs, so atmospheric pressure can push fuel into the air stream. The idea with the tubes is to keep them in a nice, quiet, breeze-free place where your pressure remains constant (and approximately atmospheric).

I realized I had mine in a bad place when I was passing a tractor-trailer and started to lose power in the cross-wind

[Steve]

Yep, I got that part down just fine. Now, tell me why it is so important to remove those hoses when you use pods and a pipe.

Since they are just a vent, I don't understand why a piece of hose that is several inches long would affect their operation. You certainly don't have any air flow to worry about; air would only flow if the level in the float bowl changes. I just can't see the fuel level changing often enough or fast enough for a vent hose to cause a restriction.

Maybe it's true, there are those that claim it has helped their bikes. I have not had a bike with pods and a pipe, so I can't say for sure, it just doesn't make sense to me.

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[mike_of_bbg]

Hey Mr. Steve;

Not having any experience with the pods, let me take a WAG (I'm an engineer, not aerospace though):

Without the airbox in place to shield that under-seat area, that goes out as a turbulence-free zone. Now the best you have is the area right behind the engine where the carbs already are. Take the tubes off and there you be.

Another argument for "just keep the stock airbox" ?

[rkubik]

Also you might try leaning out the carbs a tad on the main jets. Going two jet sizes leaner (from stock 110 down to 105, then 102.5) solved that problem for me.

1982 gasoline was formulated differently than what what we get today, and it makes a difference in the running, especially at full speeds.

[Steve]

Without the airbox in place to shield that under-seat area, that goes out as a turbulence-free zone.
Now the best you have is the area right behind the engine where the carbs already are. Take the tubes off and there you be.

Mike, your WAG almost makes sense.

That's the best explaination I have seen yet.

I wonder if that's what's really happening?

.

[Dave8338]

It makes the most sense of any explanation that I've heard.

[AudiA4_20T]

Back at it! I got the pods on the carbs and put in my new petcock today.

Question,

the petcock is vacuum operated right? I hooked up the fuel line and left the smaller port to the air, and it started spilling gas out of the side vent nipples... is this normal?